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Update on soft jaws, big parts, and the Orange vise

swarf_rat

Titanium
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Location
Napa, CA
I have some largish parts that I had been profiling out of plate, with attendant finishing problems. I detailed the issues in this thread. The goal was to eliminate the coupons (tabs) left to hold the parts in the plate which had to be removed and finished by hand; also to reduce setup time. The parts are between 8" and 14" in longest dimension. They have round overs on both sides, so I was concerned about how much grip I could get on the rounded edge. Consensus was I wouldn't need much, but I might distort the part unless I used some sort of vacuum fixture.

I have two Orange double station vises I originally reviewed here. Sol at Orange vise suggested I could use some of his Size Large machinable jaws and sent me some to try. These are 10" wide, and big enough to contain nearly the whole part. With the matching center jaw, I was able to get two parts on one vise. Like the normal jaws on the Orange, they can be set up as moving or fixed, but in addition these can be reversed so you can use both ends (there are clamping wedge features at both ends, so you turn them 180 and use them again). I put 1" parallels between the jaws and machined the shape into them. There is enough metal left to recut them for a refresh in this use probably 100 times.

Here are the longest parts, first side has been machined, the waste removed, and clamped in the soft jaws. You can see how wide the jaws are compared to the 6" vise base. One part is done, the other raw:

Orange1_zpsf968a970.jpg


The jaws and part overhang enough I had to move the vises closer together to get within the work envelope. They grip about 0.400 of the edge, but the 0.25 round over on one side makes the grip only 0.15, leaving about 0.015 tool clearance for the second side round over. One of the issues on these things is the round over bit causing chatter. This was not a problem with these jaws, because the part is very well supported and damped:

Orange2_zpsc05005ee.jpg


Second part is more triangular, but grip on the thinner (moving jaw) side pretty skinny. I engraved the part name on each jaw, if you can read them they are in the right way around:

Orange3_zpsc638db55.jpg


Parts finished. On these I could space the vises and get four in the machine if needed. The thin part of these is 0.2" with some stiffening ribs underneath. They do distort about 0.002, bowing up in the middle. That is acceptable in that area, and I get some relaxation distortion anyway due to the amount of metal removed. I interpolated 2 holes near the edge of the center jaw, these are used for electronic probing for datum and rotation. (I back bored them after this picture was taken, otherwise chips would pile into the hole and interfere with the probe). If the center jaw is removed and replaced, it repeats within about 0.0003 position typically (within the thermal drift of the DMG), and rotation less than 0.002 deg. I probe before each finishing pass, after 4 or 5 parts are run and thermal stability is achieved, the errors are down to 0.0001 or less, and features on the part probe within about 0.0003 true position:

Orange4_zpsbe8af486.jpg


The result has been pretty much all positive. I can use a much smaller blank because no perimeter is needed for vise grip on either the first or second side: I machine above the vise jaws on the first, and grip only the machined surface on the second. That reduces cost and allows room for two parts in the machine. The registration and repeatability is good enough I probably don't even have to probe once the machine is warmed up. The part is supported over about 80% of its edge and 80% of its underside so there have been no chatter or vibration problems. I can swap from the step jaws to the soft jaws to different soft jaws in about 5 minutes (could be much faster it I was in a hurry, but I'm not - spend some time cleaning the vises, etc.). Even if the datum has been reset or vises moved, I can just eyeball zero over the tooling hole and then run automatic probing for setup, which takes about a minute.

I'm still quite happy with Orange Vise and I really like the big jaws. I have ordered more.
 
So - are you starting with a waterjetted or ??? blank?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
I should have taken some pictures of the first side. I start with rectangular blanks. I used to start with one large enough that I could mill the outline all the way through with the blank gripped in step jaws. That required enough perimeter material to clear the jaws, but also to have enough residual strength that it would stay in the jaws when all that remained of the interior was a few very thin tabs holding the machined part. This required quite a little extra material that was scrap.

With this method, I use a rectangular blank only about 1/8 bigger that the finished extreme dimension. Big enough that you don't have to be very precise tossing it in the step jaws. I machine the top side to near the top of the step jaws. Main requirement being that there is enough vertical machined surface to grab in the soft jaws above the round overs when it is flipped. The waste on the odd shaped parts is band sawed off before the second side machining. I have tried milling them off and letting them drop, but this is fraught with peril. You could start at the perimeter and turn them into chips, but that takes time. The edge of the machined part on the first side is bounded by the deep profile slot defining it. I do this with a 1/2" end mill, but in steps down spaced 0.1" so that no slotting deeper than about 1xD is done at a time. That leaves a slot 0.6" wide. What remains is a thickness of maybe 0.25 or 0.3 of unmachined blank at the bottom. As the last operation before removing the parts on the first side, I use a 3/8" EM in the center of the 0.6" wide slot to slot further leaving only about .050 thickness (stopping just short of milling the step jaws). This makes for very quick band sawing to remove the waste. It also leaves a step in thickness of about 0.1" width next to the finished part, which protects the finished first side edge from wild band sawing as it is obvious when you stray too close.

I tried water jetting the blanks but it has several disadvantages: On thick aluminum it is costly, too much WJ time. You end up with a shape which requires soft jaws to hold it even on the first side, and different ones for the second side. The WJ profile is not very accurate, making the 1st side soft jaws a bit problematic. That said, some other parts in this same product assembly are 316 SS, and due to the machining time, I do exactly that: WJ the blank, grip in soft jaws for the first side, flip into second side soft jaws to finish.

If you look at the first picture on the unmachined part you see only 4 holes machined through from the first side. However all the lightening holes and slots are under there, having been machined through to full finished depth (but not quite the depth of the raw blank). The four round holes are purposely machined through, to allow probing for location after the flip - though I have discovered that probing the fixed soft jaw is sufficiently accurate.

One trick I have learned is to machine all features requiring precise location at one time, with the same tool if possible, and in a short interval. The latter to minimize thermal drift of materials and machine. But even on these parts, the vertical edges machined on side on and two must match closely or there will be a step which is a cosmetic issue. A step of a few tenths is quite noticeable, a step of 0.001 looks horrible. That is why I probe the fixture or part for location just prior to the finishing ops.
 
You keep saying Opp1 and Opp2, yet this must be a 3 opp job?
The blanking from the rect blank is done ahead of this set-up then?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
You keep saying Opp1 and Opp2, yet this must be a 3 opp job?
The blanking from the rect blank is done ahead of this set-up then?
No, not that complicated. Comes as a rectangular blank from the aluminum supplier. Goes right into the step jaws for first side. Then the waste is sawn off, flipped into the soft jaws for the second side, straight from there into the vibratory finisher and off to the anodizer.

Here is a simulation of what the blank looks like (second part pictured) after the first side machining. The step jaws grip it just below the machining. The one corner of waste is all that needs to be sawn away. After the second side, all surfaces are machined.

Cheek_zps9cb0e9e7.jpg
 
Well that is how I envision it, but I'm just not seeing that layout in your pics at all.

A) ???


Your top pics show that job as an Opp1 and Opp2 in the dbl vise.
But below - it appears that you are running dbl Opp1's and then dbl Opp2's.

B) Why the change?



Just not seeing your CAM view in the pics at all....

Hold my hand a little longer... ??? :o




---------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
he isnt showing op1 just op2 on two different parts. He showed how they look before op2 is finished ie part loading into softjaws but not op2 machined.

Plus he was showing some milled holes for probing
 
Honest, I try not to be confusing!

The first two pictures show one kind of part, two each in a double vise, all Op2. Both pictures show Op2 completed on the nearest part and not started on the farthest part. Both have already been through Op1. The second two pictures are a different part, (actually two different parts, if you are particularly observant you will note than one is right hand and one left hand...); the first depicts the parts prior to Op2 and the second after completion of Op2 of both. My CAM rendering is of this part, Op1.

Clear now? There will be a test later.....:)
 
Can you do two parts out of each bar to save making all of that scrap? A bit longer bar and rotate the second part 180 degrees.
 
I had the revelation that those must be before and after Opp2 pics soon after I posted that last reply.

Still tho - why not opp1 and opp2 in the dbl vise?




edit: Lots snuck in _ in the last few minutes...


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Last edited:
Can you do two parts out of each bar to save making all of that scrap? A bit longer bar and rotate the second part 180 degrees.
I will change the second part to get two out of a blank. They nest better if two left hands (or two right hands) are done on one blank. It only saves a small amount of material, but it makes the blank long enough to put in both vises, which is a better idea (I have a scrapped part to prove it - was not cut square by the supplier and pulled out on one end).

Still tho - why not opp1 and opp2 in the dbl vise?

Could do - but I don't understand why this is done a lot of the time. If you have a stack of parts to do, then two at a time is what you can do, Op1 or Op2 doesn't matter. Machining time, loading time, etc. - same for the stack either way, isn't it?. In this case after Op1 they have to come out to get the waste cut off, then back in, might as well do all the Op1 and then swap jaws and do all the Op2.
 
Just a thought, not relevant to that job, but have you thought about adding a third vice to that table? Leaves one in the middle for jobs like that or 6 stations for smaller things.

Its a idea i have been toying with if the stars align and i can have some were to house a real cnc mill :-)
 
Could do - but I don't understand why this is done a lot of the time. If you have a stack of parts to do, then two at a time is what you can do, Op1 or Op2 doesn't matter. Machining time, loading time, etc. - same for the stack either way, isn't it?. In this case after Op1 they have to come out to get the waste cut off, then back in, might as well do all the Op1 and then swap jaws and do all the Op2.

Well - most likely you have 4 jaw sets your way.
2- Opp1 (in this case opp1 is likely just hard jaws?)
2- Opp2

Going at it the other way:

1) you have 1 set each opp

2) You have finished parts coming off right away = possible to make partial shipments.

3) You can tell right away if you need to alter something in Opp1 before scrapping the whole lot.
(not that you would make a mistake - but I would)

4) Less WIP



BTW - I don't mean to critique your layout.
I was originally just not following along with the circles and arrows and the paragraph on the back of each one.
(The text and the pics)
..and then just replying to why I believe that it makes sense to doo both opps at the same time. (Since you brought it up)


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Ox, I think for very short runs (like 2-4 parts), one combined set of jaws might make sense to me. As you say one set of jaws, and one setup of the jaws, to do even one part. In my first op I use standard hard step jaws. Switching offer the jaws on the Orange takes only a couple of minutes, probing for alignment and position less than a minute. If there was no intermediate step (sawing off the waste in this case) it might make more sense: flip the part from the front to the back, load a new blank in the front. In this case the part has to come out of the machine between ops to band saw, interrupting that flow. I can do one part at a time with these jaws, just let the other station close all the way (though if used with the same program you will be cutting a lot of air). Your point about not doing 100 bad Op1 runs is a good one, and I do run one part through the whole process first if the program is immature. Once everything is proven though, you gotta have faith and go for it....

There is room on my machine for another vise, but I currently have little use for it. For one small thing either vise will do, much of the time larger parts clamped in both. If I had a bunch of little parts to do, three would add 50% capacity per load and I would do it. With two vises, each with 10" wide jaws, that pretty much uses up the 24" X of the machine with a little space in-between and at each end.
 








 
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