Abene play in Y ways

jmbecker · Mar 24, 2018

After starting to use my Wohlhaupter boring head , I noticed a horrible play in my Y ways which caused a shuddering effect on the whole machine.
I can partially stop it by locking the Y travel, but fore boringhead I obviuosly need to move the table up.
Does anybody know of a way to correct the play in the Y ways ?

ballen · Mar 24, 2018

Are there gibs you can adjust and tighten?

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Demon69 · Mar 24, 2018

Adjusting screws are here.

Indicate from the saddle to the table as you try and push forward and back. I think around .001" movement should be ok.

POAx · Mar 24, 2018

If I understand the question, and I am talking about an Abene VHF3, it is in the Y-direction you have the play. The gib for that is on the right side, about 100 mm underneath the right arrow in Demon73 photo. That gib is for adjusting the "horizontal" play. There are also two "rulers", one on each side, as takes the up and down play. This rulers has no adjustment screws, you have to rescrape it to better fit.
I have some wear on my Abene but no problem when using my boring head. I take rather light cuts, maybe 1 to 1,5 mm in steel, with a sharp bit.

jmbecker · Mar 24, 2018

I'm so sorry , I ment to say the Z-ways ; so the vertical ways.
There are indeed no gibs there.
Rescraping is not something I can just do ; even better I CANNOT scrape.
So if I understand correctly : I'm screwed.

Demon69 · Mar 24, 2018

jmbecker said:
I'm so sorry , I ment to say the Z-ways ; so the vertical ways.
There are indeed no gibs there.
Rescraping is not something I can just do ; even better I CANNOT scrape.
So if I understand correctly : I'm screwed.

Lol, you making me work for this one eh

.

Standing in front of the machine looking at the left vertical slide. Where the the lock handle is, above and below it, youll see cap heads that bolt through the gib into the knee. They should retain as well as adjust the gib.
I havent been there yet but id snug them up, this should tighten/lock the knee, then back them a touch till th knee moves freely. Ill get a pic that shows the style of gib, easier than trying to explain.

Demon69 · Mar 24, 2018

Sorry for the poor pic but thats the view from the bottom of the knee.

Same design as in the detailed in the following.

jmbecker · Mar 24, 2018

Many thanks for your reply !But as far as I tried already , there is no snugging up in my case.
The bolts are as tight as they can be.
Or am I missing something ?
Should I remove them totally one by one and tighten them then afterwards ?

Demon69 · Mar 24, 2018

jmbecker said:
Many thanks for your reply !But as far as I tried already , there is no snugging up in my case.
The bolts are as tight as they can be.
Or am I missing something ?
Should I remove them totally one by one and tighten them then afterwards ?

Hmmm, could be that the its packed with crud or the gib might be bottomed out through wear. Or maybe im the one missing something

It looks like its in two pieces, maybe try taking the bottom one out first and see what you got. If its due to wear you could possibly shim the back end of the gib (the surface that isnt sliding) as a temp fix.

I gotto gets some sleep mate, good luck with it.

Demon69 · Mar 25, 2018

I checked on mine and the gib screws are only snugged. Fyi

cwilcox · Mar 25, 2018

On my machine VHF-3 S/N 8264 I'm pretty sure the Z is as pictured above and the tapered pieces come in hard contact with the casting. So any adjustment would be by careful material removal from the tapered piece which seems like it would be easy because there are two raised parts that make the contact so you wouldn't have to deal with the whole surface. I guess this assumes the whole dovetail length of the machine is worn evenly however.

POAx · Mar 25, 2018

I am sure the gib is tightened to contact to the casting. What you can do is to tighten the lock lever. Then you can take out the both gib. In a surface grinder you can grind of about 0,05 mm on the surface as is in contact with the casting. (Don't touch any other surface). Remount the gib without to tighten the screws hard. Release the lock and test the Z-travel. If you still can move it all the way up and down, you can repeat and grind some more. This procedure is not absolute correct but I have performed this on my VHF3 with good result.

jmbecker · Mar 25, 2018

Thanks for the tip !
Do you mean the surface where the bolt is going through ?
With the two small raised parts ?

Demon69 · Mar 25, 2018

Removing some from the gib at point A would let the gib seat further in and would tighten things up. Adding a shim at point B would give the same result without removing material from the gib, which is a good thing.

If I get a mo ill check mine tmrw at the least worn part of the column to see if theres a intentional clearance at point A.

jmbecker · Mar 25, 2018

Is the clerance maybe a sort of oilgroof ?

Demon69 · Mar 25, 2018

jmbecker said:
Is the clerance maybe a sort of oilgroof ?

Not so much, the clearance at point A would just allow the gib to suck up on the tapered surfaces, allowing it to be adjustable. Ive an Elliot 14" shaper with this arrangement on the column, its a standard design and works well. To have the gib fitted on 3 faces is a bit of a ballache for the fitters and its non adjustable per say as surfaces wear. Maybe this is the way Abene did things, honestly I dont know for sure.

cwilcox · Mar 25, 2018

I'm certain on my VHF-3 the two contact pads at A touch and the two contact pads at B touch. No adjustment possible without material removal.

sfriedberg · Mar 25, 2018

cwilcox said:
I'm certain on my VHF-3 the two contact pads at A touch and the two contact pads at B touch. No adjustment possible without material removal.

Or adding a shim at B.

jmbecker · Mar 26, 2018

I hope that when removing material from side A ,this will not interfere with the oilsupply(O-ring too tight on hole ?)
Also quite strange ,is that the screws that hold the scraper ,attach to the gib,resulting in a obstruction of movement of the gib when being adjusted.
Is this factory ?

cwilcox · Mar 26, 2018

There is no movement of the Gib, once tightened it hits on two sides A and B of the casting and is home. If the felt keeper screw holes don't line up you could file them slightly to get the screws in. Regarding the o-ring. The amount of material would be so little that I can't imagine a problem. POAx suggested 0.05mm (0.002") for first try.

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