Added value Deckel boring head

New here, long time guest.
Happy owner of a Deckelfplb2,now able to buy for an acceptable price a good quality Boring head.
Looking at the specifications I wonder what advantage I get,in other words ,what can be done with a boring head,that cannot be done with the normal verticular head?
Workspectrum: miscellaneous, most boataccesoires and toolbuilding.
Thanks in advance,Piet

Better finish, better roundness and straightness of bores and holes.
Believe the boring head has power feed; is a little bit fragile compared to the milling head--OK for light milling but best preserved for making best quality holes.

Would think the standard milling head in good condition is more versatile, definitely more rigid and plenty accurate for the vast majority of work.

Hello Piet

Firstly welcome to the forum and congratulation on getting a Deckel FP2L ... look forward to seeing some pictures

As for the boring head ... the Deckel's are usually tooled with Wohlhaupter boring heads (Very expensive) but there are "MANY" types ( I have a Narex one).

Here's a link to the Wolhaupter ones: Wohlhaupter Facing & Boring Heads

As for use ... Just google them and look at Youtube ... there are many uses but best suited for precision holes

John

Piet can clarify perhaps but I think he means this sort which replaces the standard vertical head, aka "fine boring head":


(pic from here)

Correct, Bikepete,
Thats exactly what I mean.
Thanks for kind reception and quick responses.
Regards,Piet.

Correct,Bikepete.
Thats exactly what I mean.
Thank you all for kind reception and quick responses.
Regards,Piet

Colt45 (Steve) pretty much has it nailed....
Minor addition is that for larger work where the boring head can fit within the bore you can make deeper bores with good tool support...(better finish)
In addition, angled bores (head swiveled) are easier to produce owing to the ability to power feed the tool at angle....

The precision boring head is fitted with angular contact ball bearings on the spindle and as such has less radial free play than the normal milling spindle...
Allows closer control of position and hole geometry if all is in good condition.

Other plus is that the precision boring head is a pretty cool accessory (power feeds, settable stops and depth indicator, better quill hand feed, along with sensitive hand wheel depth feed).....coupled with the riser allows larger work in the vertical.

Cheers Ross

Hi Ross,

This reminds me of a related question general machining question. Recently I had to bore out a bushing in place. It was 105mm long and 21.43mm ID, and fortunately did not require a precise location at one end, only at the other. So that was easy, since I could bore from the "precise" size and locate off the bushing housing.

But it got me to thinking about that question. How do you line up to final-bore a bushing when the precise entrance AND exit locations both have to be correct? I know you have to do this sort of thing on a regular basis, so curious how you go about it?

Cheers,
Bruce

AlfaGTA said:

Colt45 (Steve) pretty much has it nailed....
Minor addition is that for larger work where the boring head can fit within the bore you can make deeper bores with good tool support...(better finish)
In addition, angled bores (head swiveled) are easier to produce owing to the ability to power feed the tool at angle....

The precision boring head is fitted with angular contact ball bearings on the spindle and as such has less radial free play than the normal milling spindle...
Allows closer control of position and hole geometry if all is in good condition.

Other plus is that the precision boring head is a pretty cool accessory (power feeds, settable stops and depth indicator, better quill hand feed, along with sensitive hand wheel depth feed).....coupled with the riser allows larger work in the vertical.

Cheers Ross

Click to expand...

+ 1

And envious, to be honest...

A Chandler-Duplex, Tree, Wallbanger, etc. ADD-ON boring (and surfacing..) head only provides a fraction of those cumulative "goodnesses", and not-even the most useful of all - the better-suited spindle and positioning mechanism in back of them.

Go for it!

Bruce:
Number of methods to doing what you seek:

Best is to be able to indicate both ends of the bushing...aka line bore...Small ID bushings say setup in the lathe may not permit this approach.
Indicators with long probes can help here....

If the above is not possible then often using the part itself...indicating to make the face flat if possible, of if you know the build of the bushing (one face finished flat to the ID/OD) you can use that face
if it presents a large enough sample size....

If its important for the bushing to point at another , then if possible indicate off both as an assembly before finishing both...also there are spindle adjustable reamers that have centering cones
that one can use to align the finishing bored on two bushings (like a car long pin setup on a front spindle)

Often careful production of the bushing is the key.....
On bronze bushings there is a specific method that one should always follow when making a bushing if one wishes it to be straight and have the ID and OD concentric.

I always rough the OD first using positive tooling..cut within .050 or so of the needed finished size.....
Then drill and bore the ID to the finished size (under if needing intending to finish bore to size) If using a hone to finish, I usually bore to the desired finished size and hone to correct the shrink from the press fit after install..

Finally i finish the OD to size

Cheers Ross

On my FP1 I am using a Moore boring head (with an adapter) and a Tree Boring Head. The Tree Boring Head is versatile as it can do straight boring, facing and taper boring.
Moore head is very good quality and can be easily converted to parallel shank or Morse taper.I have seen Moore heads selling for as little as $60.00.

Hi Ross,

Thanks. Somehow I was hoping for a "magic bullet" solution, but it seems that careful measurement is the only way.

AlfaGTA said:

Finally i finish the OD to size

Click to expand...

Do you typically do that in the same clamping that you use to bore the ID? Or do you make a mandrel? In my case the shaft had good center marks on both ends, so I was able to bore the bushing ID, then use the shaft as a mandrel for turning the bushing OD. That was useful because it took me a couple of tries to get the amount of interference that I wanted.

Cheers,
Bruce

Bruce:
I try to run the entire part in one chucking..even to the point of using left hand tools to cut back side steps or flanges.....
But above all else the job and how it goes together and how the parts relate to each other will dictate the process.....
Understanding the application for my work is critical...tells when you can "horse in" the part or when you have to chase "tenths"....
Having machines that you understand and trust here is priceless...
Cheers Ross