Deckel fp1 chain and belt tighting

hedgeburner · Apr 12, 2017

Hi every one to remove the back cover
That hides the drive belts and chains.
Is there a trick or do I have to remove the motor?

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quarkgluonplasma · Apr 12, 2017

hedgeburner said:
to remove the back cover
That hides the drive belts and chains.
Is there a trick or do I have to remove the motor?

hedgeburner, there is only one way to remove this backcover without removing the motor: cutting the cover through...

If done, you intend to check tension on belt and/or chain(s)? Why?

Best,

Stefan

hedgeburner · Apr 12, 2017

quarkgluonplasma said:
hedgeburner, there is only one way to remove this backcover without removing the motor: cutting the cover through...

If done, you intend to check tension on belt and/or chain(s)? Why?

Best,

Stefan

Hi Stefan thanks for your reply.
Well I've been running the mill on a vfd.
I know that I was going to loose torque.
I was just surprised that the machine wouldn't run at the top couple of speeds. I thought I should look back there just in case.
After moving the top part of the casing backwards I noticed the top chain is to lose.
Azz

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AlfaGTA · Apr 12, 2017

Chain is fixed , set by the center to center distance of the power input shaft and the feed drive shaft....Factory setup has no chain tensioner, although
since the machine runs the same direction always you could fabricate your own tensioner.....

Have seen a device which amounts to a loop or ring that is flexable (plastic) that fits between the two sides of the chain and spreads them somewhat to take out slack...
The ring has teeth that engage the chain so it stays in place..

ROLL-RING Chain Tensioner & Timing Belt Tensioner

Of course the reason the chain is loose is most likely that the sprockets are worn and the chain is stretched.....

Cheers Ross

hedgeburner · Apr 12, 2017

AlfaGTA said:
Chain is fixed , set by the center to center distance of the power input shaft and the feed drive shaft....Factory setup has no chain tensioner, although
since the machine runs the same direction always you could fabricate your own tensioner.....

Have seen a device which amounts to a loop or ring that is flexable (plastic) that fits between the two sides of the chain and spreads them somewhat to take out slack...
The ring has teeth that engage the chain so it stays in place..

ROLL-RING Chain Tensioner & Timing Belt Tensioner

Of course the reason the chain is loose is most likely that the sprockets are worn and the chain is stretched.....

Cheers Ross

Hi Ross. Thanks for that. The tensioner ring is a good idea. I've seen them in use in big cable reelers.
I'll also look into fitting new chain ect.

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hedgeburner · Apr 12, 2017

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bentley1930 · Apr 13, 2017

Hi All,

Ross, That`s a brilliant product! I have the same problem on Helga My luscious FP1 she`s a bit slack up there and as you said probably due to wear and tear.

Now here`s the million dollar question, which is the most cost effective, replacing the chain or purchasing a roll ring tensioner which may cost more than the new chain and just temporarily extends the life of the existing chain?

Alan

quarkgluonplasma · Apr 13, 2017

bentley1930 said:
...question, which is the most cost effective, replacing the chain or purchasing a roll ring tensioner...

Alan, the chain (3/8 x 5/32 inch, 109 links), costs about 15 euros. No clue about the price for the tensioner, but its most likely more than that...

Best,

Stefan

hedgeburner · Apr 13, 2017

Ah thanks for the chain specs. I did think about removing one link. I'll check the local chain place.
The back cover is very heavy duty. I think while it's of I'm going to try change motors to a 3 phase 220 delta motor.

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bentley1930 · Apr 13, 2017

Whoops,

I forgot to mention that if fitting a new chain, perhaps it would be wise to change the chain wheels as well as the teeth are bound to have worn unevenly and will damage the new chain.

Alan

hedgeburner · Apr 13, 2017

Makes sense Alan. I'll have to have a look what sort of drive the cogs have

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