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Deckel Rotary Table

dgcope

Cast Iron
Joined
Feb 7, 2003
Location
Athens GA USA
I've disassembled and am cleaning and lubricating a Deckel rotary table (6017). I've consulted the manual and searched the forums, but come up with nothing regarding the proper oil for the reservoir. The manual says to remove the screw in the table top and lube with bearing oil daily during use...but makes no mention of the reservoir.

I'm sure Ross knows (I think he's rebuilt one of these), but no luck reaching him via PM.

It had heavy gear oil in it, but there is no telling if that is actually correct. Anyone know for sure what the right oil for the table reservoir is?

Thanks!

Don
 
The manual gives a recommendation: 'bearing oil approx 33.5 cSt (4.5 E ) 50 C, approx 44 cSt 100 F' . That's followed up by a chart showing Mobil Vactra Oil, Heavy Medium. All the other oils listed are European or British. Be warned this is data from 1966 so the name may have changed but the viscosity coupled with Vactra ought to give a supplier enough info.
 
Dave:
Sorry about not replying....got your PM and was not in position to reply just then ,figuring i would do so later...well i promptly forgot ....

As to the proper lube......i really don't have the answer. Manuals i have are pretty vague on the sump....

I look at it this way. The sump provides lube to the worm and wheel of the table as well as thrust bearings on the worm shaft. On initial look one would guess that a gear oil would be the logical choice...perhaps a GL 3 90 weight.
But i think rather the sump should carry the same oil that you are using as a daily lube through the screw...
The sump is not sealed from the rest to the table and some of the oil being used through the screw will find its way to the sump...so use the same oil. That way there will be no dilution of the sump by the lighter oil used from above. The gears here run at very low speeds and relatively low pressure so i think the lighter oil (not gear) will be fine.

Now exactly what to use? Here i subscribe to the KISS system of inventory on lubricants. Fewer types means i can buy larger containers to cover more applications, less chance of being out of the needed oil. Gives less chance of using the wrong oil or mixing different types by mistake.

All the gear boxes as well as the hydraulic sumps of my Deckels run a good quality AW 46. (Anti wear Hydraulic Oil ISO 46)

This goes for the feed and headstock gearboxes of my Manual FP2 and FP3....(remember on the manual machines the "Y" axis ways are lubed by the headstock oil , so if the 'AW' is good enough for that it should be fine on a rotary table).
Use the same oil in the headstock gearboxes of my FP4NC , FP3NC and FP2NC's ....as well as the hydraulic systems of the NC's.

This is what i would run in the sump and apply through the screw on top of your rotary table.....AW46.

Small side note:
I own two rotary tables. One of which (earlier i think) has a sight glass on the sump to show level or more i think that it has some oil in it....The second table (newer) has no sight glass for the sump.....think the runoff of oil applied through the screw on top keeps the sump topped up.....Haven't taken that one apart, so maybe it is packed with grease....will have to look into this one day.

Cheers Ross
 
Don, I realise I wasn't terribly specific. The Manual for the FP2LB(1966) gives a brief rundown on the 'circular table 6017' in the section on 'indexing attachments' in which it refers to lubrication as per page 7.2 which recommends the oil described in my first post for everything to do with the 6017 table including 'Oil bath for square guide of clamping table & for worm gear drive. Fill up after removing screw plug.' According to a Shell viscosity chart that viscosity at 50 C equates to a viscosity of about 55cSt at 40 C which corresponds nearest to a present day Shell Tellus T 46, that's T 46 not Tellus 46 which is 46 cSt at 40 C
 
Okay, very helpful fellas, thank you!

Ross, that makes a lot of sense. It had gear oil in it, and that seemed like an appropriate choice. But, it just didn't seem right that the oil in the sump and the oil for the table bearing would be different, because they do co-mingle. Manual info via swarfless (thanks!) confirms that you are correct.

I like Mobil lubricants mostly because they are easy for me to get. Seems like the grade to go with is Mobil DTE 25 (cSt 46 @40C). Best I can tell this an ISO 46 medium hydraulic oil with anti-wear properties. This is close to the factory recommendations, and sound like it's close to what Ross is using.

Am I on the right track?

Thanks again!
 
Adding oil

Okay, very helpful fellas, thank you!

Ross, that makes a lot of sense. It had gear oil in it, and that seemed like an appropriate choice. But, it just didn't seem right that the oil in the sump and the oil for the table bearing would be different, because they do co-mingle. Manual info via swarfless (thanks!) confirms that you are correct.

I like Mobil lubricants mostly because they are easy for me to get. Seems like the grade to go with is Mobil DTE 25 (cSt 46 @40C). Best I can tell this an ISO 46 medium hydraulic oil with anti-wear properties. This is close to the factory recommendations, and sound like it's close to what Ross is using.

Am I on the right track?

Thanks again!

I have the same rotary table however I don't have a manual or any instructions .can anyone help with how to replace the oil and where the filling points are.
Thanks regards Greg
 
Hi Greg,

Can anyone help with how to replace the oil and where the filling points are.

There is a fill-screw on the top of the table, inside the T-slot. Remove that and fill with oil through the opening. If your table has an oil-level sight glass, experiment with engaging and disengaging the worm drive. One position will show a higher oil level than the other. Use that higher position to determine the correct oil quantity.

If your table does not have an oil-level sight glass, fill it until it starts to leak and then back off a bit :D

Cheers,
Bruce
 
Hi Greg,



There is a fill-screw on the top of the table, inside the T-slot. Remove that and fill with oil through the opening. If your table has an oil-level sight glass, experiment with engaging and disengaging the worm drive. One position will show a higher oil level than the other. Use that higher position to determine the correct oil quantity.

If your table does not have an oil-level sight glass, fill it until it starts to leak and then back off a bit :D

Cheers,
Bruce
Thanks Bruce
I have located two screws at the base of the T slot and will try them. There is a sight glass which is in excellent condition I did purchase a few new sight glasses after you supplied the P/Number as spares.
Thanks Regards Greg
 
Greg, I seem to recall it's the larger of the two screws, but am not certain. I think it's the one at the smaller radius, not the one at the larger radius. Look at the second photo in this post http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ry-table-380-mm-rundtisch-303095/#post2548536

Cheers, Bruce

EDIT: now think I remember. The ring gear is held on by 6 SHCS. One of those is drilled through to allow oil to pass through it. That drilling is then blocked from above by a flat head screw.
 
Thanks Bruce I will have a very close look on the weekend .
The mill is now up and running
Regards Greg
 
Bruce
I have found out with your help that My rotary table has two oil screws side by side. The one closest to the centre is for daily oiling and the other is for the table main sump.It also has a sight glass.The rotary table was delivered with the Mill ion 1963.
Regards Greg
 
Bruce
I have found out with your help that My rotary table has two oil screws side by side. The one closest to the centre is for daily oiling and the other is for the table main sump.It also has a sight glass.The rotary table was delivered with the Mill ion 1963.
Regards Greg

I just surfaced the top of mine (removed .010") and oiled it. The oil plug closest to the center is the larger dia. hole on mine, about 10mm dia. The other hole has a screw with a similar-sized flat head, but the actual threaded hole is small, maybe 4mm. It took very little oil before over-flowing, so I filled the sump using the hole closest to the center.
 








 
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