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Fp2 feed shear pin retaining clip

Greeno

Cast Iron
Joined
Jan 23, 2005
Location
Isle of Man, UK
Hi all.

I'm having trouble with the feed shear pin on my FP2 dropping out. The retaining spring clip has fractured through the hole. I have a spare clip, but need to know how it's retained as I'm having no success in removing the old one.

Thanks in anticipation,

Jim
 
Never had one out, but the parts sheets indicate that its just a straight rivet (3x6) that is driven into the hole.

I would cut the head off flush with the remains of the original clip with a col;d chisel or grind the head off with a die grinder or Dremel....
Then center punch and drill out what is left....Make a new pin to fit the hole in the coupling and you are good to go...

In installing the new pin to avoid hammering on the shaft and its bearings...i would try and press in the replacement pin using a "C" clamp to push the pin into the hole.
If a conventional "C" won't fit think a dedicated pusher could be easily made from some plate and a screw....

Cheers Ross
 
I can confirm that the clip is held in with a rivet. I have an original Deckel cellophane packet containing 50 shear pins, 2 replacement springs, and 2 replacement rivets.

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Thank you Ross and Ballen.
That's pretty much what I suspected. The packet I found in the depths of the machine is obviously the same as Ballen's minus the label.
A rivet - or "notched pin" - in a blind hole seems a clumsy kind of retainer for the clip and not typical of the thought that's gone into the overall design of the machine. I wonder if some kind of forked wedge was intended for its removal - bit like the wedges for getting arbors off Jacobs chucks?

Jim
 
Thank you Ross and Ballen.
That's pretty much what I suspected. The packet I found in the depths of the machine is obviously the same as Ballen's minus the label.
A rivet - or "notched pin" - in a blind hole seems a clumsy kind of retainer for the clip and not typical of the thought that's gone into the overall design of the machine. I wonder if some kind of forked wedge was intended for its removal - bit like the wedges for getting arbors off Jacobs chucks?

Jim

It doesn't even actually need to hold the pin in, it only needs to prevent the pin from pulling out. The stress/force is lateral to the pin...You could hold the pin in with a piece of duct tape if you had to... :) (I can hear those Deckel aficionados cringe...hehehe)
 
It doesn't even actually need to hold the pin in, it only needs to prevent the pin from pulling out. The stress/force is lateral to the pin...You could hold the pin in with a piece of duct tape if you had to... :) (I can hear those Deckel aficionados cringe...hehehe)

Yes!

The first idea was a couple of turns of electrical tape, I must confess. After all the pin did mostly stay in with no retention at all. It just seemed to fall out (gravity?) when it was the maximum nuisance value.

However, having found the spare springy thingy it seemed polite to fit it.

As it turned out, the notched pin levered out. The elegant technique employed was to snap off the remnants of the retainer clip, shove a thin screwdriver under the rounded fracture and lever. Eventually the notched pin rose from its hole and then it was just a matter of tapping in the new parts with a long punch. The fit of the notched pin was not too fierce, so I didn't need Ross's C clamp suggestion, but appreciate the council of perfection nonetheless.

There we go - it was just a matter of determining what the arrangement was - and for that I thank you all.

Regards, Jim
 
I've sharpened one of those wire cutters and got a grip on those drive pins enough to pry them out with it. The information plates are the tough ones to remove, usually made of aluminum or brass and if they get all banged up it really shows.
Dan
 








 
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