Post "Heidenhain 9 pin to current 15 pin Dsub connectors wire color code conversions?

Peter from Holland · Oct 25, 2016

Post "Heidenhain 9 pin to current 15 pin Dsub connectors wire color code conversions?

There is/was a post not that long ago here with the following title
""Heidenhain 9 pin to current 15 pin Dsub connectors wire color code conversions"
Now I cannot find it anymore ????
If you google Heidenhain 9 pin it shows up on google images

Now i need to do that exact thing
I am converting my Hermle 802M to a HH TNC 124 controle and need 3 extension cables with a female HH 9- pin to a female Dsub 15 pin connector
Anybody can help

Peter

Milacron · Oct 25, 2016

Peter from Holland said:
There is/was a post not that long ago here with the following title
""Heidenhain 9 pin to current 15 pin Dsub connectors wire color code conversions"
Now I cannot find it anymore ????
If you google Heidenhain 9 pin it shows up on google images

Now i need to do that exact thing
I am converting my Hermle 802M to a HH TNC 124 controle and need 3 extension cables with a female HH 9- pin to a female Dsub 15 pin connector
Anybody can help

Peter

I posted it. After a week or so on the forum, there were no comments and seemed to be zero interest so I deleted it.

However what I posted was a little different from what you seem to want to do. What I posted was the Heidenhain 9 wire color code crossover to L-Com female Dsub 15 cables wire colors.

If you use L-Com 15 pin Dsub cables they post a drawing on their website showing what color wire goes to each pin. Then you figure out from Heidenhain literature what does what on the old round 9 pin cable and compare to what does what on the current 15 pin Dsub standard. Then match that up with the different still L-Com standards to finally arrive at the solution.

Of course if you don't need any extra wire length you can just replace the 9 pin round with 15 pin Dsub connector directly....unsolder the 9 pin wires and solder and/or crimp them to appropriate female Dsub "pins".

You can buy 9 pin to 15 pin adapters from Heidenhain of course but the price is insane (like $140 each)....plus in my case I didn't even have the 9 pin connectors...only cut scale wires...so I had no choice but to figure it all out.

Peter from Holland · Oct 25, 2016

Well thats what I need
I have original HH wire for the 9 pin scales and also have the female connectors Those I am soldering on right now
Now I need to figure out which color goes on which # on the femal Dsub 15 connector

So basicly the code of how to make a old 9 pin scale working on a newer DRO with Dsub 15

Peter

ballen · Oct 25, 2016

Peter, I think this is what you need. Does that help? Cheers, Bruce

Milacron · Oct 25, 2016

Peter from Holland said:
Well thats what I need
I have original HH wire for the 9 pin scales and also have the female connectors Those I am soldering on right now
Now I need to figure out which color goes on which # on the femal Dsub 15 connector

So basicly the code of how to make a old 9 pin scale working on a newer DRO with Dsub 15

Peter

Interesting, my drawing still shows in a Google image search but is too blurred to read...pesky cache memory I guess. Can't repost for a few days, busy moving a boat to Charleston, SC. But basically all you need to do is find the pinouts of the 9 pin in an older Heidnhain DRO manual and compare to the pinouts of the 15 Dsub in a newer DRO manual. Trouble is that info is not in all the newer manuals....probably is in the ND780 manual though.

Peter from Holland · Oct 25, 2016

Thanks Ballen
Here in Holland we have a guy dealing in Heidenhain DRO`s and scales
He helped me out real quick

Peter

ballen · Oct 27, 2016

Peter, can you ask your Heidenhain guy if he knows how to solve the following problem? I have an ND770 display with the blue/green vacuum fluorescent display. Some of the digits are not as bright as other ones, because they were turned on for years. There is a trick to restore these dim display elements, by putting more current through the heater for the particular bar or digit. This evaporates the oxide off the electrode. Can you ask if he knows how to do this? I need to know how much current should I use, and which pins get the current. Does he know this? Cheers, Bruce

Milacron · Nov 3, 2016

ballen said:
Peter, I think this is what you need. Does that help? Cheers, Bruce

Interestingly
on my Deckel Activ FP2 scales, including the rotary encoder, there is no "white/brown" wire. I found that connecting the external shield to pin 8 on the Dsub 15 gets them going on the Positip DRO however. Suppose I should try that on pin 13 and see if that makes any difference, but so far getting no errors and excellent accuracy with shield on pin 8 of Dsub 15 connectors.

How I knew to use Pin 8 I now can't remember....but I'm thinking in one of the Heidenhain manuals the pinouts are slightly different than your drawing above and that was one of the differences (might have been the only difference really) Isn't that fun....when you can't even trust the provided drawings to be correct for all Heidenhain scales and DROs ? :ill:

As aside, the cable and wires on the rotary encoder are insanely small and fragile.....but I finally was able to solder them to a 15 pin female that plugs into a male connector with double shielded and armored L-Com cable that plugs in X4 (C axis) on the DRO. The male connector sits inside the universal table casting and prevents any strain on that fragile encoder cable even during table tilt. Will post some photos in a day or two I hope.

Peter from Holland · Nov 3, 2016

ballen said:
Peter, can you ask your Heidenhain guy if he knows how to solve the following problem? I have an ND770 display with the blue/green vacuum fluorescent display. Some of the digits are not as bright as other ones, because they were turned on for years. There is a trick to restore these dim display elements, by putting more current through the heater for the particular bar or digit. This evaporates the oxide off the electrode. Can you ask if he knows how to do this? I need to know how much current should I use, and which pins get the current. Does he know this? Cheers, Bruce

I just saw this post
He is no mechanic Just deals with HH DRO`s and knows something that is documentated by HH but thats it No electronic goeroe
Thats someone else but he likes to keep all his secrets for himself

Peter

ballen · Nov 4, 2016

Hi Don,

Milacron said:
I'm thinking in one of the Heidenhain manuals the pinouts are slightly different than your drawing above and that was one of the differences (might have been the only difference really) Isn't that fun....when you can't even trust the provided drawings to be correct for all Heidenhain scales and DROs ?

Agreed 100%. If you can find that different drawing, please post it here, eventually someone else will neeed it and Google will help them to find it.

As aside, the cable and wires on the rotary encoder are insanely small and fragile.

If that what you think, then you've never had to repair your kids macbook at midnight because they need it for a school presentation the next morning. Those wires are truly microscopic :crazy:

.

Cheers,
Bruce

Milacron · Nov 4, 2016

ballen said:
If that what you think, then you've never had to repair your kids macbook at midnight because they need it for a school presentation the next morning. Those wires are truly microscopic .

Yes....but it makes night and day difference to be able to sit at a proper bench with good lighting and stereo microscope at hand, compared to dealing with a short cable hanging down under a Deckel universal table right at the machine, while holding a flashight in your mouth...needing three hands and having only one good eye for closeup vision. (have cataract implant in left eye now, so can see great at distance but sucks close up....right eye is perfect focus at aprox 1 foot distance but then perception is not great due to lack of previous "stereo" perfect closeup vision)

Scottl · Nov 4, 2016

Milacron said:
Yes....but it makes night and day difference to be able to sit at a proper bench with good lighting and stereo microscope at hand, compared to dealing with a short cable hanging down under a Deckel universal table right at the machine, while holding a flashight in your mouth...needing three hands and having only one good eye for closeup vision. (have cataract implant in left eye now, so can see great at distance but sucks close up....right eye is perfect focus at aprox 1 foot distance but then perception is not great due to lack of previous "stereo" perfect closeup vision)

For the first problem; there are all sorts of LED headlamps that are perfect for lighting work.

For the second problem; there are lots of cheap reading glasses in stores and you can pop the lens out on the side that does have good closeup vision so only the problem eye gets corrected.

I think you do a lot of this stuff so it's worth getting better equipped.

Milacron · Nov 4, 2016

Scottl said:
For the first problem; there are all sorts of LED headlamps that are perfect for lighting work.

For the second problem; there are lots of cheap reading glasses in stores and you can pop the lens out on the side that does have good closeup vision so only the problem eye gets corrected.

I think you do a lot of this stuff so it's worth getting better equipped.

This is a tiny one AAA battery LED flashlight with 3 different brightness levels which is always in my pocket, easy to hold in mouth and manipulate its angle with my mouth....so while possibly not the greatest solution, it is better than you might think. I keep huge packs of AAA batteries around and will change out a battery when the brightest setting stops working without a second thought as to the cost.

As to maginfication maybe one of those jewelers swing down loupes would help. But really I don't "do a lot of this stuff" anymore, like I used to ....so have not been inspired to get "better equipped" of late.

Scottl · Nov 5, 2016

Milacron said:
This is a tiny one AAA battery LED flashlight with 3 different brightness levels which is always in my pocket, easy to hold in mouth and manipulate its angle with my mouth....so while possibly not the greatest solution, it is better than you might think. I keep huge packs of AAA batteries around and will change out a battery when the brightest setting stops working without a second thought as to the cost.

As to maginfication maybe one of those jewelers swing down loupes would help. But really I don't "do a lot of this stuff" anymore, like I used to ....so have not been inspired to get "better equipped" of late.

The problem with most swing down loupes is that they are designed for very close working distances which makes them great for reading drill shanks, etc. but not so good for work 12 to 18 inches away.

If you know of one with lower magnification please post it. The information would be useful.

sinusvag · Nov 5, 2016

Scottl said:
The problem with most swing down loupes is that they are designed for very close working distances which makes them great for reading drill shanks, etc. but not so good for work 12 to 18 inches away.

If you know of one with lower magnification please post it. The information would be useful.

I have been researching this very thing. _bay is awash with dentist loupes that have either 3.5x or 4.5x magnification, and working distance of 350/420 mm. These typically do not cost much, and I'll be getting a pair myself for soldering.

Cheers Hans

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Post "Heidenhain 9 pin to current 15 pin Dsub connectors wire color code conversions?

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