I've been running this machine for a few yrs now. Machine was cutting very good till one of the boards went out and the machine lost everything. No previous person wrote down or saved any settings(wished i did). All I have is the factory standard E-packs disk and have to change alot to keep machine running. All tolerances are good and finish is good. A quarter to half way into the cut the wire will break(on the rough cut). Flush is good and all of the feed rollers are new. The wire is balling and bird nesting really bad and it looks like the wire is burnt really bad in the bin. I cut CRS, A2, D2, and stainless, RC 45 -62, .250" to 6.00" thick. Mitsubishi says everything is fine and machine is good. Anyone having suggestions please help, thanks. If you have seen this message elsewhere im new to this.
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Help w/ Mitsubishi wire edm DWC90SB
- Thread starter prs3
- Start date
- Replies 14
- Views 12,688
nastek
Plastic
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2008
- Location
- Surabaya, Indonesia
What do you mean "lost everything"?
For SB Model, may be your Power Units have problem.
on the last post "Help" i wrote IP=4, I mean Vo=4 (80-85V on wire)
For SB Model, may be your Power Units have problem.
on the last post "Help" i wrote IP=4, I mean Vo=4 (80-85V on wire)
nastek
I was gone when this happened (left fore awhile then came back). It was supposed to be hit by lightning. Fried some boards and blew the battery(memory loss). After technition and 10,000 some odd dollars everything was fine. When I came back no one could remotely get it to cut at all. With my reading manuals and trial and error. It was alot better, atleast got it to cut, with tolerance good and finish good. I can't call tech support cause they owe them too much money (aint that a kicker) Vo is roughly 80-85 depending on what i'm cutiing and how thick. I hope this might help you. Thanks for the reply. Any thing else you can think of would help. Thanks
I was gone when this happened (left fore awhile then came back). It was supposed to be hit by lightning. Fried some boards and blew the battery(memory loss). After technition and 10,000 some odd dollars everything was fine. When I came back no one could remotely get it to cut at all. With my reading manuals and trial and error. It was alot better, atleast got it to cut, with tolerance good and finish good. I can't call tech support cause they owe them too much money (aint that a kicker) Vo is roughly 80-85 depending on what i'm cutiing and how thick. I hope this might help you. Thanks for the reply. Any thing else you can think of would help. Thanks
roysol
Cast Iron
- Joined
- May 11, 2005
- Location
- Honesdale Pa
An easy answer first,
the "plastic" under your name reflects the number of posts you've made. As you reach various levels, the material changes.
WRT your machine problem, I run a newer mits, FX10k, but let me take a stab at general principles.
Assuming that the problem is really with your tech settings and not one of the dozens of other potential problems, such as poor flush, poor filtering, bad wire, bad material, worn carbide contacts, corroded ground cables, faulty generator board, etc, then you need to change your settings.
I have found that the full power e-packs do not work reliably in anything but perfect conditions, which is to say, in the real world, never. It is possible that prior to your memory loss the standard e-packs were edited to fix this. If so, you will have to do it again. You could edit the base e-packs, something I don't recommend, or copy them to another number and edit the copy, or you can include the individual adjustments to specific parameters in the code of your programs. I use both of the last two methods, in addition to using a start-up e-pack, and then adjusting parameters manually as it gets into the cut.
As to what to adjust, I'm not sure how closely your settings are like mine, but I reduce V and IP a couple of notches, increase Vg (controls open gap voltage) several notches, decrese SA at least one notch, etc.
If this makes any sense to you and your tech is similar to mine, I'll give you more specific details about what to adjust and why.
Cheers!
Roy Solomon
the "plastic" under your name reflects the number of posts you've made. As you reach various levels, the material changes.
WRT your machine problem, I run a newer mits, FX10k, but let me take a stab at general principles.
Assuming that the problem is really with your tech settings and not one of the dozens of other potential problems, such as poor flush, poor filtering, bad wire, bad material, worn carbide contacts, corroded ground cables, faulty generator board, etc, then you need to change your settings.
I have found that the full power e-packs do not work reliably in anything but perfect conditions, which is to say, in the real world, never. It is possible that prior to your memory loss the standard e-packs were edited to fix this. If so, you will have to do it again. You could edit the base e-packs, something I don't recommend, or copy them to another number and edit the copy, or you can include the individual adjustments to specific parameters in the code of your programs. I use both of the last two methods, in addition to using a start-up e-pack, and then adjusting parameters manually as it gets into the cut.
As to what to adjust, I'm not sure how closely your settings are like mine, but I reduce V and IP a couple of notches, increase Vg (controls open gap voltage) several notches, decrese SA at least one notch, etc.
If this makes any sense to you and your tech is similar to mine, I'll give you more specific details about what to adjust and why.
Cheers!
Roy Solomon
roy
Thanx Iv'e already done just what you said and still have problems. I dont dare to venture off the settings to much because of tolerance and finish and all that goopty-gah. Tech must be similar. You're right standard epacks donot work by far. Had a sodick the same way had to change its settings also. It looked the same as epacks pretty much identical.
Thanx for the note on the name thing, thought i was going nuts
Thanx Iv'e already done just what you said and still have problems. I dont dare to venture off the settings to much because of tolerance and finish and all that goopty-gah. Tech must be similar. You're right standard epacks donot work by far. Had a sodick the same way had to change its settings also. It looked the same as epacks pretty much identical.
Thanx for the note on the name thing, thought i was going nuts
Jay Cee
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2006
- Location
- North East Ohio
Check wire tension/calibration.
I say that because of the wire bailing and bird nesting that seems to be new to you.
Also, there is a screw that tensions the two pinch rollers just before dumping into the wire basket.
I've found that adjusting that helps with the nesting.
I believe (it's been a few years) you can also move the wire side to side on those roller from that point.
I say that because of the wire bailing and bird nesting that seems to be new to you.
Also, there is a screw that tensions the two pinch rollers just before dumping into the wire basket.
I've found that adjusting that helps with the nesting.
I believe (it's been a few years) you can also move the wire side to side on those roller from that point.
Thanks Jay Cee
I have moved rollers, messed with the tension knob and ran a wire condition and tensioning program. Still didnt help. Your correct about tensioning problem(maybe). When I look while its running, the tensioning pulley bounces slightly but quick, then look at the brake at the same time it kinda slips. Brake is not sticking as far as I can tell. Ran the brake backwards with a drill to loosen powder inside(per what a technition told me to do). That didn't help either. Idid all this before you posted. Anything else you can think of will help. I'm pulling my hair out here.
I have moved rollers, messed with the tension knob and ran a wire condition and tensioning program. Still didnt help. Your correct about tensioning problem(maybe). When I look while its running, the tensioning pulley bounces slightly but quick, then look at the brake at the same time it kinda slips. Brake is not sticking as far as I can tell. Ran the brake backwards with a drill to loosen powder inside(per what a technition told me to do). That didn't help either. Idid all this before you posted. Anything else you can think of will help. I'm pulling my hair out here.
KilrB
Stainless
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2007
- Location
- Angleton, Texas
OK, first let me say that I am unfamiliar with Mitsubishi's machines.
The symptoms you describe with your wire are identical to what we experience on our Robofils when the pinch rollers:
1. Get too deep a groove worn in them.
OR
2. Are out of parallel.
The symptoms you describe with your wire are identical to what we experience on our Robofils when the pinch rollers:
1. Get too deep a groove worn in them.
OR
2. Are out of parallel.
kilrb
The rollers are also new and I checked them and no groove. The bearings are also new BUT,,,,, the bearings wobble like crazy(the bearing itself) I checked the other bearings we have, (that are still in the package) and they do the same thing. and they are not the same brand. This could cause the rollers to be out of parallel(or run out of par.). I had this problem with the old rollers and we reground them and they worked great. These are new but Im about to pull these off and regrind them also.
The rollers are also new and I checked them and no groove. The bearings are also new BUT,,,,, the bearings wobble like crazy(the bearing itself) I checked the other bearings we have, (that are still in the package) and they do the same thing. and they are not the same brand. This could cause the rollers to be out of parallel(or run out of par.). I had this problem with the old rollers and we reground them and they worked great. These are new but Im about to pull these off and regrind them also.
KilrB
Stainless
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2007
- Location
- Angleton, Texas
We had a similar problem with our Brother wedm's.
Drove me nuts until I found what the problem was.
The inner race wore a groove in the pinch roller shafts.
Both shafts ... both machines.
They were out of warranty of course.
I could see no reason for it as the bearings were not stiff or binding anywhere.
I installed new bearings and shafts ... lock-tited the inner races to the shafts.
So far, so good.
Drove me nuts until I found what the problem was.
The inner race wore a groove in the pinch roller shafts.
Both shafts ... both machines.
They were out of warranty of course.
I could see no reason for it as the bearings were not stiff or binding anywhere.
I installed new bearings and shafts ... lock-tited the inner races to the shafts.
So far, so good.
This helped my slip problem and wire breaking not so much the nesting and balling
Jay Cee
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2006
- Location
- North East Ohio
Aren't those rollers that capstam (spelling?????) stuff???...
That would be semi-fun to grind...not...
I just remembered the little insultated curly pigtail looking thingy that placed the wire in between the rollers at a certain point.
I always ran mine as close the the machine side as possible with out the wire slipping off the side.
Always seemed to run better over there for me.
The only other thing besides the wire brake cal being out that may have changed with a power outage is all of those E-packs you mentioned.
Perhaps last guy had all of the wire tensions tweeked down.
What does it look like (bouncing arm and slipping brake) if you turn down the tension?
As long as you don't get to crazy with the cheese-whiz, two or three notches down shouldn't effect your geo to much.
Unless you're cutting some really thick stuff.
There was something I always had to tweek when ever I reloaded E-packs but I ca't remember what it was.
It may have been wire tension...
I do remember having to turn that dang "E-Online" back on..
Never failed to have a wire break over that imediatley after reloading.
Funny thing is my old Mits got zapped by lightning once also.
I always heard they were a lightning magnet.
That would be semi-fun to grind...not...
I just remembered the little insultated curly pigtail looking thingy that placed the wire in between the rollers at a certain point.
I always ran mine as close the the machine side as possible with out the wire slipping off the side.
Always seemed to run better over there for me.
The only other thing besides the wire brake cal being out that may have changed with a power outage is all of those E-packs you mentioned.
Perhaps last guy had all of the wire tensions tweeked down.
What does it look like (bouncing arm and slipping brake) if you turn down the tension?
As long as you don't get to crazy with the cheese-whiz, two or three notches down shouldn't effect your geo to much.
Unless you're cutting some really thick stuff.
There was something I always had to tweek when ever I reloaded E-packs but I ca't remember what it was.
It may have been wire tension...
I do remember having to turn that dang "E-Online" back on..
Never failed to have a wire break over that imediatley after reloading.
Funny thing is my old Mits got zapped by lightning once also.
I always heard they were a lightning magnet.
The rollers are Ceramic, not sure what capstam is
