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Mitsubishi FX10 dirty side low + more

tvalen1432

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 21, 2014
Location
Pomona
I have a Mits FX10 and there is a few issues going on but I am thinking they are due to either the resin pump going out or the circulation pump(?) going out. It keeps giving me either dirty side low or clean side low and neither at the time are low. But at times the clean side is not getting enough water and gets low but off and on and erratically. No specific time or situation really except its primarily during roughing. I used to always get a U827 Pump/Chiller alarm also the generic sequence error.

My question is do the pumps have a water low cut off alarm/switch in them? Say one pump isn't getting enough flow to or from it there for triggering the water low alarm? Or could it be the sensors in the tanks are bad. I cleaned them and they look ok but IDK for sure. My other question is which pump feeds into the chiller? And could there be clogged chiller issues causing the prob? If so how do you clean it out? It's just a radiator type box above the dirty tank with no alarm panel or anything like my fx20 has. I cleaned the fins of a lot of dust n oil but not sure what to do internally if there is anything I can do.

Any feed back is welcome,
Thanks,
Tvalen1432
 
I get clean side low messages usually when my edm filters going full. There is a pressure gauge that shows if there is a problem there but mine seems to show false data. It can be something else for sure, but worth a try.

Gl troubleshooting and have a nice day!

Mate
 
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What msrbl said about dirty filters. Even with clean ones, if you don't have your flush nozzles sealed to the workpiece, you can draw more water than the filters can flow. If your volumetric flow meters show more than 4-6 liters per minute, it won't keep up. The float switches do go bad, I've replace several in different areas of the machine. They can get dirty, and not read. They can get dirty and not move at all.They can fail to float any more. They can electrically fail internally.

On my FX10K the chiller (not heat exchanger), is fed by the filter pump, and the tank circulation needs to be on. The chiller alarm is if it is not on, in an error mode, or the temperature delta T is more than 5 degrees. None of that applies to a heat exchanger. Hope that helps. :)
 
Update:
There is a control valve down by the lower Grundfos pump (filter pump I believe) that is connected to the hose that leads to the large filters. Change that valve. I found it to be this after doing everything else possible like: cleaning all valves and solenoids, verify filters are good, clean holding tank, supply pump, filter pump (and where they sit in tank), hoses to and from pumps, etc.
As for water flow issues when threading, or air bubbles in flow meters I would definitely clean A & B valves and more than likely replace solenoid E.
Hope this helps keep some ones sanity.

Tvalen1432
 
Clarification on part of my post: I kept getting clean side low alarm and noticed the clean side tank kept running low. I tryed everything under the rainbow. Then I asked a tech that told me... If the all filters are good, and there are no obstructions in hoses etc. and you have cleaned all the valves and solenoids, then check/replace the check valve that's attached to the hose leading to the large filters by the lower grundos filter. I will attach a picture.
The other thing is if you are experiencing water constant flow from upper head after threading or when ever you should check Solenoid E, Valve A & B for cleaning as well as any wear and if functioning properly. Hope this helps.
 

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Hi, the only way that machine has to fill Up the clean tank is by the filters and in some cases the hose of the resin depending if it's needed. I would try to change filters first.
About the chiller alarm should be on display some Code like E1 or something like this. If you want you want to keep working without the chiller just make a Bridge between 284 and 285 where the connections of the chiller goes. I must say Water Will Heat Up, so be careful with the tolerance needed in your workpieces.
For the problem of the float switches just change them, they're not expensive.

Regards
 
Hi, the only way that machine has to fill Up the clean tank is by the filters and in some cases the hose of the resin depending if it's needed. I would try to change filters first.
About the chiller alarm should be on display some Code like E1 or something like this. If you want you want to keep working without the chiller just make a Bridge between 284 and 285 where the connections of the chiller goes. I must say Water Will Heat Up, so be careful with the tolerance needed in your workpieces.
For the problem of the float switches just change them, they're not expensive.

Regards

Mits Tech,
On the Alarm screen the only code I see is 0000 after U827Pump/ChillerERR. Also the water already heats up to at least bath water temp about mid day of constant use. It doesn't prevent running the machine but sure would be nice to know how to fix so better part accuracy could be achieved. LOL. Thank you sooo much for taking the time to respond to so many posts on the forum both new and old! Your input was enlightening on so many levels.
Regaurds,
Tvalen1432
 
Hi Tvalen 1432 on the alarm screen appears this but in the chiller there's a small display that usually shows the temperature difference, there is where something must be shown as E1 or E2, E3, SF etc... and where you must look for. Also if the error of chiller-pump is appering only in rough cut and seems to be the clean water low... mmm.. try to take one hose from the two filters and leave it free, try again to do rough cut. If there's no problem could be the pump is not giving enough pressure for the filters or the valve is not working properly.

Best Regards.
 
Mits Tech,
I haven't gotten a clean side or dirty side low ever since I changed that check valve on my FX10. But after re reading some of the responses above I just realized that my FX10 probably doesn't have a chiller but yet a heat exchange unit. Attaching pictures so some one can clarify what my system has.

FX10 cooling unit 1.jpg

My unit doesn't display anything anywhere. It's just a radiator as far as I can see. Also, right when I turn the unit on I get the Pump/Chiller Alarm. It doesn't effect being able to use it unless it gives it again while in use. But that rarely happens.

At present my main concern is that in middle of day when been in use, I will get Hard stroke end alarm that wont clear whether I move head or not and occurs in random positions, times, etc. I just have to shut it down and the next day I can start it right back up where it stopped cutting with no problem. The machine makes it's own hours. Waiting for approval for Tech to come out since finding out might be not easy fix. Will update later. Thank You, Tvalen1432
 
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Hi Tvalen1432, I see it's a heat exchanger not a chiller itself. The good thing about heat exchanger is that keeps working all the time, in exchange doesn't has the control as the chillers has. It depends the room temperature, but pumps already make the water heating itself and also the erosion spark in the worktank while working. Chillers are expensive have to say that.
About the H/W stroke ends, I would put some grease in the ballscrews just in case and leave the generator cabinet opened with some fan cooling it in the front. Maybe if the generator gets too hot could be no real alarms, I've got some strange alarms that sometimes was this, as you say I guess is random but appears when machine has been working by some hours and next day it goes.

Also try the following, move U and V axis side by side looking if at some point makes some noise. Every axis has +/- 32 mm .

Best Regards.
 
Update: Some times I really wish my issues could be the normal common issues but I guess that would be boring. Come to find out that at some point in the machine past life, it encountered rat tenants whom chewed the 4 wires dealing with the U and V axis. An unqualified average maintenance person decided to bypass the break of two of those wires with the wrong kind of wire and connections so it had come out from it's connection thus constantly giving the alarm at that point. Rewired the damaged section correctly, greased ball screws, did some aligning and cleaning and better then before! (Service done by Mits Tech not me of course). Also he cleaned the cooling fins that are behind the unit. You can remove the cover with a few screws and find 3-4 feet aluminum fins to clean them. It is the bottom of those that get clogged and not allowing the air to flow up through them and cool the unit. Before cleaning and just having the power button/ or running a part, on the outside of the unit would get up to 102+ deg. Now in running state is only 97.5 deg. WOW!

Hope this helps someone,
TValen1432
 








 
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