anyone got any scratch start tricks? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    hey Vanguard, didn't mean to impugn your process. just sayin', that in my personal experience, (which includes a S-ton of crazy, contorted, out of position site welding) I have never even considered scratch start to be a faster alternative. ever.

    maybe if you include a picture of the situation? trying hard to imagine how that could be. and yes, wireless foot pedal is put to use, often on ladders..

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  3. #22
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    can't post any pics of this stuff, it's customer r&d related.
    i do appreciate all of your suggestions and hope i wasn't coming off as rude.
    fwiw, aside from some good mentoring in the machining department i'm mostly self-taught, so i'm sure i'm doing most things at least a little wrong

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  5. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by vanguard machine View Post
    can't post any pics of this stuff, it's customer r&d related.
    i do appreciate all of your suggestions and hope i wasn't coming off as rude.
    fwiw, aside from some good mentoring in the machining department i'm mostly self-taught, so i'm sure i'm doing most things at least a little wrong
    Im self taught too, but in my case, that makes me absolutely sure i'm the ONLY one doing it right...

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  7. #24
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    A 5000 ohm 2 watt rotary pot, (machine your own knob to keep the profile appropriate to your preferred control style) a momentary on switch, and some epoxy putty with a piece of thin-wall tubing, (slit on one side to allow friction fit) that will fit over your torch of choice conveniently, coupled with an appropriate connector for your machine, and an appropriate multi-conductor cable (in my case, a thermal-arc with an eight pin plug) does the job admirably and economically, for way less than $100.

    I still like a pedal when it's feasible, but when it's not, this is a whole lot better than the clunky, Velcro-on stuff that one can find OTC.

  8. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by vanguard machine View Post
    wondering if anyone has any tips on getting better arc start without fouling or getting stuck. i've heard about guys striking off of the rod itself but i can't wrap my brain around that one.
    Never tried it myself but have heard many times that using a carbon brush (electric motor brush) to strike the arc and move onto the metal afterwards.

    Tungsten being contaminated with carbon ?????????????? No idea, but the tungsten supposedly won't stick to the carbon brush.

    You could taper the carbon brush to a fairly sharp edge so it's easy to transition from it to the metal


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