Betenbender press brake & Dies 190 ton x 12'
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  1. #1
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    Default Betenbender press brake & Dies 190 ton x 12'

    I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a brand new Betenbender Press Brake....
    I'm a general welding and fabricating shop, most of the work we do is a plus or minus 1/16", some times 1/8" is good and there are times it need to be right on but usually 1/16" is okay.
    Do I need a C & C back gauge.

    I want brand new dies, I'm thinking about a 4 way bottom die, a straight punch for the heavy stuff and a gooseneck punch,
    I'm thinking that I want the 12' goose neck punch to be in pieces to allow me to do box type bends, any thought as to why it would be a bad idea to cut this die into pieces.

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    You for sure want a backguage. Not getting a backguage on a press brake would be like having a shear without a squaring arm. And you want it CNC controlled.

    My have been subbing out brake work for 10 years and am finally buying my own. In my time buying time on brakes, I am most familiar with Amada, Trumpf and Accurpress. I have done alot of research and have most likely decided to go with Accurl. The main frame is German steel and it is welded, stress relieved and machined in China. The rest of the parts of the machine are all mainstream, big brands for the hydraulics, electrical and the CNC control. Bosch, Siemens, Schneider, Delem. These are all available in the US by industrial suppliers.

    This machine has CNC crowning and Wila hydraulic clamping for sectional tooling. It has very fast approach and return speed and a very large open height for deep box bends. The backguage is a 6 axis guage that can go anywhere in free space to locate your part for bending. This is a very modern, highly accurate press brake. Below is the USA distributor for Accurl.

    Dakota Hood
    Regional Sales Director
    801-618-5058
    Home

    This is a video showing what a 6 axis backguage works.
    Accurpress Accell 6 Axis - YouTube

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    Have you looked at a re-built Cincinnati or other late model machine ?

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    Jimmy Popp, I don't get those kind of jobs, I definitely need a back gauge without a doubt.
    Whats your thought on a gooseneck punch cut up in pieces, I was thinking a 2", 4", 5-1/2", 7-1/2", a 9-1/2", 11-1/2", 23-1/2", 35-1/2", 47-1/2 and so on to a balance of 144"
    I want to go with odd size lengths because most boxes that I bend will be in and even number.
    __________________________________________________ ____________________________________

    Digger Doug, I dont want to inherit someone elses problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Portable Welder View Post

    Digger Doug, I dont want to inherit someone elses problem.
    I could have sworn I have seen a couple of places that completely
    tear down, re-machine, and re-build the whole machine, new electronics, updated back gage too.

    I have seen the Betenbender up close, and I'm not impressed
    with the it.
    Last edited by digger doug; 09-06-2017 at 08:21 PM.

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    I am still researching tooling myself.

    I have heard good things about this tooling company.
    Mate Precision Tooling - Sheet Metal Fabrication Tools

    If you don't need an advanced backguage, a CNC backguage X axis (front to back) and a manually adjusted R axis (up and down) is all you need. Z1 and Z2 axis (side to side) is done by manually by reaching through the brake and moving the "fingers" where you need them.

    The money you save on the backguage, invest in a hydraulic upper clamping for sectional tooling. This is exactly what you mentioned although you can go down to .25" wide. If you are doing a variety of size pans, having hydraulic clamping and sectional tooling will really allow you to do production on your brake. Many different size pans very quickly. Like just a couple minutes between setups. Wilson has a very competitively priced upper sectional tool holding. Press Brake Tooling Catalog | Wilson Tool

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    Don't guess on the sectional tooling front, look at the std lengths and cut it at that, its a proven good combination. Sectional bottom tooling can also be bloody usefull.

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    How important is it to have a back gauge that will pull back away from the part as it starts the bend.

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    Esential, if you want to bend anything with a lip on it. Think bending a top hat type section. Extra marks if the stops are sorta sprung loaded such that if you get it wrong they just pop out and can be popped back in too!

    Normally you have it so it nips the part then retracts the stop then bends.


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