braze/welding cast clamping collar?

Ive done several braze jobs on cast iron, but never on a clamping type collar that flexes when opened or closed. Is this even possible? The item in question is a turn of the century peerless table top drill press flat belt type. Its a real cute little machine with the exception of the cast part that holds the table stem is cracked. Anybody done this?

Yes, I have done it on an import drill press. This was close to 30 years ago, when that stuff was first coming around and I was young and naive. It was truck shipped, and the damage was obvious but the driver said it "had" to be unloaded and "they would take care of it at the company". I noted damage on receipt, but never got anything for it, probably a good lesson to learn early. That DP ended up being fitted with a cross slide vise and served as my first "mill" so it got a tremendous amount of abuse, and that brazed clamp on the table support arm was always cinched down as tight as it would go, and had a couple added set screws to give some bite in the column. AFAIK, the thing is still in use by someone else. Also brazed the guide-to-bar clamp on an American (brand) 30" band saw that flexes "somewhat" when tensioned. It broke the first time, then i re-did it building the bronze up higher, and it has held for about 20 years of use now.

No particular suggestions, except if braze is truly to be used, Vee is out to get full penetration, and scratch the rod around on the iron before the puddle starts, to help it bond. Build the "weld" up somewhat over flush, and let it flow out a little on top of both pieces.

If it's a clean crack that you can get flux in, silver solder might work well.

Either way, play the torch all over any part that was at red heat and don't let it cool fast, let the red _slowly_ fade out, then bury the part in ashes or vermiculite to leave it to cool very slowly.

smt

for something like a butt joint , or where
there's no overlap... brazing might not be the
best choice.

if you have to braze - like smt said ... use
a lot of filler and build up the joint , making
a brass 'patch' to cover the whole mess.

i would suggest nickel-99 electrode if you have
access to a stick machine. it will make a stronger
butt joint than brazing , and is easier to machine
afterward....bronze alloy just doesn't like to
be ground/sanded - it's really gummy.

yes you can braze it
and if you put enough metal to it and get it stuck good it should hold