tig torch connection problem

I've recently purchased an older Lincoln Idealarc 300/300. It came with a water cooled torch and all the necessary connections. Problem is that the brass body that connects to the work stud on the machine won't fit into the recess on the machine. I went to my local welding shop looking for a "stud extender" or a "stand-off" of some sort and they had no idea.
How have others solved this problem?
If I make a stand-off does it have to be copper or will steel do?
Steve

Get the Code Number from the machine's data plate and look here:

http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalog/lecooperatorsmanualsearch.aspx

There might be an illustration as well as a part number.


Rex

They didn't show the type of accessory that I need. Any other thoughts.
Steve

A close-up picture of the situation wouldn't hurt.

Is this a gray 300/300? I use a short length of cable with lugs on each end. It's not OSHA acceptable to allow it to lay on the floor, in case that affects you. Mine is just tucked under the welder, if OSHA comes it I'll put it in a shielded box. Don't allow the connector to get too close to the frame of the machine, if it arcs, the weld will act funny and you'll have a hard time figuring out why.

Actually I have a quick connect twist lock lug bolted to the lug on the machine, and each of my 3 torches has a short length of cable connected to the adapter with a quick connect end on the other end. That allows me to switch torches by twisting that connector and swapping the argon hose at the outlet. 2 of the torches are water cooled, the water runs through both in series so I don't have to deal with the coolant.

It is a gray 300/300. I thought of using the jumper cable idea but I was under the impression that if the brass connector touched the cabinet it would arc with full welding amperage as if it had touched the work/ground clamp. Your explanation sounds as though it is lower amperage.
Steve

You have a good machine, very stable. The cabinet doesn't seem to be grounded, but it will bleed off current. It would be a good idea to wrap the connection with rubber, I haven't gotten to that yet myself.

Stevet
Tweco, Dinse and others make at least three styles of stud adapters. Mount the best choice of these to your studs (for your welder it might be the female thread to female connector that is straight). Now you will have the quick change Tweco or Dinse end that
you can change out for stick or TIG. CK world wide and others make Tweco/Dinse to TIG torch adapters that will plug right in. The CK products are called Safe-loc connectors and come in different types. There are also many TIG torches that come with Tweco or Dinse ends right on them. I can post some photos if that will help. With the right picks these won't touch your welder or the ground and are covered with insulation. Your welding store should have been able to help you with these.
Andy

No certain what you mean by you need a longer stud. These machines the the standard ( used on most of their welders ) part # 9ST14166-9 and it should be more than long enough and in the proper position to use the industry standard 9 and 17 series air cooled , 26 series air cooled or water cooled to 1/2" stud adapter. If the stud is not long enough to take the adapter, then someone has at one time cross threaded it and ended up cutting some of the thread off

No reason the standard torch blocks for one piece guns will not fit in this machine. Lots of room around the stud

A brand new stud ( work and electrode the same ) part # 9ST14166-9 is available for less than $25 and it is every easy to install

The stud on this machine is recessed into a square hole. I currently have a female quick disconnect attached to it. I'll look into the male counterpart for it. The only male they had at my local store was, male on one end, cable on the other.