I want to build a jib crane

Mike Powell · Oct 19, 2014

I am wanting to build a jib crane over my 20" lathe in my new shop. I am wondering if anyone here has any experience with this sort of work and can offer any advice? I want to use the crane for changing chucks on my lathe and possibly for loading and unloading any heavy work on the machine. It may also be used for unloading heavy car parts like engines, transmissions, and rear ends. I have a trolley and a 1/2 ton chain fall that I would like to use. I also have some 6" pipe for the column and a piece of 8" I beam that is a little over 16' long. I am fairly certain I will need to shorten the beam.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks!

Mike :cool:

Mike C. · Oct 19, 2014

6" pipe and 8" I beam would let you lift the lathe itself, or a full sized car. Have a look at a HF engine hoist for what kinds of materials are suitable for your uses there. There was one of those Skyhook toolpost cranes in the metallizing spray booth at the pump shop. It was rated at like 500lbs and was nothing but thin wall 2" tubing. Of course, the longer the reach, the heavier it needs to be, but I would think a couple of pieces of 2-3" tubing with 1/4" wall would be plenty enough for what you propose.

wheels17 · Oct 19, 2014

Careful!! It's a jib crane, not an A frame. Gorbel is a well known manufacturer, and for an 18' reach(length of the OP's beam), they use a 12" post and a 10" beam for a 1/4 ton capacity. Even an 8' reach uses an 8" post at this low rating. Also, the foundation requirements for a jib crane can be pretty extensive.

I'd suggest a look at this:
http://www.jibcrane-outlet.com/pdf/floor-mount-free-standing-jib-crane-brochure.pdf
And this:
http://www.jibcrane-outlet.com/pdf/floor-mount-free-standing-jib-crane-manual.pdf

The first link will give you an idea of the size of post, beam, braces, and other details used for commercial products.
Their model numbers are a straightforward indicator of the construction. A FS300-8-6 uses an 8" column, and a 6" beam.(for 500# capacity at 8 feet).
And don't forget to include the weight of the hoist and trolley in your capacity calculations. Gorbel has a 15% of capacity allowance for the hoist and trolley in their ratings.

wippin' boy · Oct 20, 2014

copy this

McMaster carr

McMaster-Carr

the hanging lugs are bent 1/2" plate, the pins are common grade 8 bolt
the boss is attached with 1/4" plate welded to a brass lined 2" round with hole

DDoug · Oct 20, 2014

Certainly....not a problem.

Please give us a bit more info:
1. wall mounted ? or freestanding (360 degree revolving) ?
2. ceiling height.
3. coverage area desired.
4. floor thickness. (or no mounting to floor possible)
5. hook height desired.
6. capacity desired.

ignator · Oct 20, 2014

The moment arm of a 16' cantilever is enormous. Was your intent to have the column free standing and bolted to the floor?
You want this to swing over the lathe, and a loading area where you can unload from a truck or trailer?
If you attach the upper end of you column to your building via a bearing, will your building be pulled over from the load out on the end of a 16' beam?

What head room do you have above this area. What is the floor layout.
I would suggest a Gantry crane. telescoping-gantry-crane if the space around the lathe permits it's movement.

You indicate 8" beam, what is the lbs/ft? This determines its structural capability to support loads. Your into an engineering science of strengths of materials. You can use computer software to do the math. You do need to understand details.

Ray Behner · Oct 20, 2014

Here's some pics of a jib I built. Mounted at floor and ceiling, it's a 4½" x ¼" wall tube, with a 3" tall x 2½" x 6' I-beam. The ceiling plate spans 3 trusses and has a 4½'' spud welded to it. A slip collar slides up and is held by set screws. Probably underrated for this, but I lifted a 6'' dia bar, 6 foot long onto my saw. While it was a couple inches off the floor, I got my lardass (150#) and stood on it as well. It didn't noticeably flex.

Jib Hoist Photos by rbehner | Photobucket

acme thread · Oct 20, 2014

Have you checked out HGR, They have gobs of that stuff pretty cheap. Your pretty close in East Palestine OH. I sure wouldn't weld one up for what they sell them for.
HGR Industrial Surplus - Largest Inventory of Used Equipment and Machine Tools
Disregard The last item in HGR'S list, That [crane], Was an early Ray Behner design, Useful for sure, But really didn't catch on for lifting, More for dumping.
Might be worth a trip for a look-see. dave [acme thread]

ignator · Oct 20, 2014

thermite said:
Usually.

Some egghead RPE with a PhD up at First Army throws a hissy fit. No core-drilling, no calculations for piling, yadda, yadda..

Bill

I had to look up BFBI (brute force and bloody ignorance).
Ya, you can overbuild it. But holding up a cantilever 16 foot chunk of steel and hoping you can lift a half ton on the end, does require some 'cypherin', or enough experience of seeing what it takes.

My experience is that some of the most stupid people I've met were MSMEs and PHD MEs. But they could calculate all day long, just never had any intuitive talent. I know that there are some with advanced degrees that do have talent, but they ain't here in Iowa.

swatkins · Oct 20, 2014

Ray Behner said:
Here's some pics of a jib I built. Mounted at floor and ceiling, it's a 4½" x ¼" wall tube, with a 3" tall x 2½" x 6' I-beam. The ceiling plate spans 3 trusses and has a 4½'' spud welded to it. A slip collar slides up and is held by set screws. Probably underrated for this, but I lifted a 6'' dia bar, 6 foot long onto my saw. While it was a couple inches off the floor, I got my lardass (150#) and stood on it as well. It didn't noticeably flex.

Jib Hoist Photos by rbehner | Photobucket

I'm gathering all the parts to make one similar to yours. I was going to have a fixed pipe and make a sleeve for the boom but I like your method better.. I see the picture for the floor mount using a trailer ball. What did you do for a socket, for the ball, and how is it holding up?

Ray Behner · Oct 20, 2014

swatkins said:
I'm gathering all the parts to make one similar to yours. I was going to have a fixed pipe and make a sleeve for the boom but I like your method better.. I see the picture for the floor mount using a trailer ball. What did you do for a socket, for the ball, and how is it holding up?

I shouldered a piece of 4½" to fit the ID and bored a hole the size of the ball to the depth of the ball dia.. Flattened the end of the hole with a boring bar. That's it! Packed some grease in it and she swings forevermore. The reason for the ball is to help locate and tip the column to vertical. A squared off chunk would be harder to locate to the hole.

swatkins · Oct 20, 2014

Ray Behner said:
I shouldered a piece of 4½" to fit the ID and bored a hole the size of the ball to the depth of the ball dia.. Flattened the end of the hole with a boring bar. That's it! Packed some grease in it and she swings forevermore. The reason for the ball is to help locate and tip the column to vertical. A squared off chunk would be harder to locate to the hole.

So the bearing surface on your rig is the flat top of the ball and not it's curve.... Here I was digging through all the drawers looking for a 2" ball nose mill bit

J.Ramsey · Oct 20, 2014

Here's my 16 footer,its mounted between 2 doors, swings 180 degrees to cover both sides.

Main mast is 6 x 6 x 3/8" square tube,beam is 5 x5 x almost 1/2" (old model T lift beams).
I used trailer spindles and hubs for the pivots,swings full 180 with little effort.
Added old motorcycle disc brake caliper for holding in position if I want.

1"x 18" base plate anchored to the 30" x 30" footing (poured with the hoist in mind when building was built) .
4 x 8 angle anchored thru lower sill, 2 x 6 studs sandwiched with 4" channel and same 4 x 8 angle welded on top then bolted thru top plate.Top of mast bolted to the top angle iron in 4 places.

The one for my mill I used 6" x 1/2" wall round tube for the mast and the leftover 5 x5 from the first hoist. It is a single pivot, I had a 3/4 ton style rear floater hub from a stock car made from 5140 in the junk pile.I machined 2 washers/spacers from 3/4" plate to fit inside the tube then made the spindle 24" long and welded the washers to the spindle and slid the assembly in the tube and welded the top solid and plug welded the lower support washer.
Also doubles as an air reservoir.

Ray Behner · Oct 20, 2014

J. Ramsey,
I like 'em both! The mill job is the better one though. It's got air power! Like the brake, too.

Mike C. · Oct 20, 2014

" I am fairly certain I will need to shorten the beam. "

Was not at all suggesting using the entire beam. My overhead is too low for an effective crane of any type, but I have often wondered about a jib with a sliding outer support that just clears the floor until loaded. You could still swing it against the wall for storage, but you could use a beam twice the length.

Mike Powell · Oct 20, 2014

There is certainly a good bit to consider in all of this. I do appreciate all of your input.

My shop is a pole barn with a little more than 13' of ceiling height. The beam is actually 8 1/2" high and is a salvaged piece of overhead crane rail. One web is wider than the other. My floor is just 4" thick. I was planing a fairly large steel plate on the base to spread the load. I think that the crane would stand the best if the upper support would extend to the ceiling then I could transfer the load throughout the entire building structure , tying the trusses together with flat 2x6 from one side of the building to the other. I likely would make the beam only 10' long. This would give me enough reach to get over my lathe and roughly 1/2 way across the nearest bay to unload a truck or trailer. I said my chain fall is rated at 1000 lb. I would be content if the crane could handle 500-800 lb. That is the weight of a Chevy small block V8 up to the weight of a 426 Hemi

I know I am being a bit vague on some of the details. I will have to check the beam dimensions. The beam as at my buddy's.

Thanks again!

Mike :cool:

swatkins · Oct 20, 2014

Was watched this weeks episode of Gas Monkey Garage.. They were showing off the car they just completed in an old, large , abandon looking, building that had 7 wall mounted Jib Cranes, one mounted between each of the overhead doors

Scruffy887 · Oct 21, 2014

I'm building a jib crane very soon. My needs are different because I need about 400 pounds out about 10 feet. And building the vacuum sheet lifter to go with it.

true temper · Oct 21, 2014

I have seen a jib crane brake built out of a spring air brake pot off of a semi truck. Spring applies curved lining against the colum pipe, shop air and a valve to release the brake. I never used it but it looked like it would work good.

DDoug · Oct 22, 2014

Brakes on jib cranes are a bad idea.

You need to level the thing so it doesn't wander.

A brake allows you to pull a lift off center thereby inducing a twist in the beam,
not ussually accounted for in crane calculations.

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