M. Moore
Titanium
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2007
- Location
- Vancouver Island, B.C. Canada
The new (old) Webb pinch rolls are set up and working well.
Now that we have done a few jobs I have some questions about the process now that I understand it a little and I mean a little bit.
I have done some research and watched videos to see how the process is done but there is not much out there and what is there certainly is not instructive in any way it just shows the process usually without any explanation. There are some really cheap and cheesy home hobby shop type instruction videos that are not worth watching.
So that said we generally are just rolling plate into curved sections, it would be rare for us to have to roll a full cylinder but it may happen so tips on that process are very welcome.
The main issue is trying to get to the holy grail of settings " xx on the gauge for 28" radius " in one shot kind of thing. We are sneaking up on the shape by rolling the part several times and in order to avoid an overbend we usually underbend, repeat, repeat and then finally hit the mark.
What I need to understand is why the part will roll a tighter curve on the first bend and then take way more bending roll adjustment to get it to bend even a little bit more?
I also need to wrap my head around the fact that a 4" wide piece of 1/4" flat bar will roll to xx radius at xx setting and a 12" wide x 1/4" piece will be a different (larger) radius when rolled on the same setting, both pieces being done one after the other.
I have heard it said that there is an "art" to rolling and to me that just means you need to stand at the roller for two years learning as you go.
I do get it that one piece of plate will roll differently than another but there must be some tips and tricks that help get to the right radius faster.
I have discovered that I can unroll an over rolled part if I can feed it in from the front and have the bend roll fully retracted, it works quite well to roll it almost back to flat. This only works for gentle radius segments and shorter lengths as anything longer with a tighter radius will hit the ground before it goes into the rolls from the front.
So lets have some input from all you very knowledgeable roll hands out there as I need to continue my PM apprenticeship training.
Thanks,
Michael
ps, we have to do some rolling on thursday and I will try to take some pics in progress if I remember....
Now that we have done a few jobs I have some questions about the process now that I understand it a little and I mean a little bit.
I have done some research and watched videos to see how the process is done but there is not much out there and what is there certainly is not instructive in any way it just shows the process usually without any explanation. There are some really cheap and cheesy home hobby shop type instruction videos that are not worth watching.
So that said we generally are just rolling plate into curved sections, it would be rare for us to have to roll a full cylinder but it may happen so tips on that process are very welcome.
The main issue is trying to get to the holy grail of settings " xx on the gauge for 28" radius " in one shot kind of thing. We are sneaking up on the shape by rolling the part several times and in order to avoid an overbend we usually underbend, repeat, repeat and then finally hit the mark.
What I need to understand is why the part will roll a tighter curve on the first bend and then take way more bending roll adjustment to get it to bend even a little bit more?
I also need to wrap my head around the fact that a 4" wide piece of 1/4" flat bar will roll to xx radius at xx setting and a 12" wide x 1/4" piece will be a different (larger) radius when rolled on the same setting, both pieces being done one after the other.
I have heard it said that there is an "art" to rolling and to me that just means you need to stand at the roller for two years learning as you go.
I do get it that one piece of plate will roll differently than another but there must be some tips and tricks that help get to the right radius faster.
I have discovered that I can unroll an over rolled part if I can feed it in from the front and have the bend roll fully retracted, it works quite well to roll it almost back to flat. This only works for gentle radius segments and shorter lengths as anything longer with a tighter radius will hit the ground before it goes into the rolls from the front.
So lets have some input from all you very knowledgeable roll hands out there as I need to continue my PM apprenticeship training.
Thanks,
Michael
ps, we have to do some rolling on thursday and I will try to take some pics in progress if I remember....