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Torch Configuration???

pak

Cast Iron
Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Location
Miami Fl, USA
I have been stick welding off and on for over half my life. Some time ago I transitioned to TIG with a Miller 200 amp unit. I'm actually doing a fine job on most things, but seem to be limited in my knowledge and ability to weld in tight places. I have standard Weldcraft 150 and 200 amp torches with medium cup sizes and a foot pedal. My problem lies in getting into tight places with severe angles. I need some advice on torch configuration, type, cup sizes, etc. for areas depicted in the attached .jpg before I go out and spend money needlessly. Thanks for any advice you can offer.

Regards,

Drew
9k=
 

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  • What Type of Torch.jpg
    What Type of Torch.jpg
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Not sure what series your torch is but I think you have the bigger size. I use the 9 series (125 amp) air cooled and I believe 20 series (250 amp) in the water coled torch ,these both take the smaller cups and definately use a gas lense difuser so you can stick the tungsten out way past the cup, the only way you will get into that inside angle and usually no filler rod with an inside angle like you show
 
90% of stuff i do like that im using a number 17 torch but running a number 8 gas lens its more or less my standard set-up, just change tungsten size to suit the current level im working at. Like that in a draft free area you can get the tungsten out a good 1" even with out high gas flows, That said internal angles IMHO always help corral the shield gas. Honestly tacking things up + internals are to me what makes tig a lot harder than any other process (tacking with a mig is so easy in comparison!). That said i love the weld and the job is finished, no desplater or grinding required if you take care with tig, unless it has to be a dressed - polished weld. i never normally find it that hard to add filer, but some times its a lot easier to cut a full length filler rod down so your not poking your self with the other end!

Other thing is like what your showing there i would probably roll it over and stand it up on end. IE make it into a horizontal weld run, (always easiest :-) hand with torch on inside of frame, filler rod + my head on the outside if that helps explain it? Having a foot pedal can make life easier to as you are then free to grab the torch by any bit of it, you don't have to be able to reach that pesky switch with one of your fingers :-( Also i would weld the inside of that joint after welding the top - bottom faces, carrying there welds as far round the curvy corners of the typical box section as i comfortably can. Its easier to blend in this way + its the ends of that internal angle joint were you at most risk of getting porosity. I find i oftern adjust tungsten stick out between welding diffrent faces, always trying to minimise it as much as possible.

A while back there was a post on here about a torch with a re positionable angled head, the price was not cheep but its on my to get list. The head swapped to let you use small (9-20 series) or large (17 & 26) std shields and such My problem is the UK dealer is selling it for more than you could get a pair of kidneys for, hence i will be importing from the states. Equally theres the option even with the air cooled version of having a mono, ie electric and gas in one cable which sure sounds nice :-) I don't mind the weight of the air cooled cables + pipes but i hate the fact there's the pipe and cable, they seam to always want to cause the torch to jump position on longer welds as they slide over one another. I think it was sub $200 too so not too bad for a complete torch + leads.

The other thing you can get is pyrex (as in clear glass) ceramics, like this you can see through the ceramic. Again there not redily available over here in the uk but it sure seams like it would help to get a better - more comfy position if the ceramic was transparent at times :-) You can also get longer ceramics, but after trying them i have not found them that much of a advantage for accessing stuff like this yet.
 








 
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