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To saw or not to saw, What saw should I getPosted

Spirit

Plastic
Joined
May 9, 2008
Location
Near Lansing, Michigan
As I stand there for a VERRRRY long time with my cut off saw trying to cut a sheet of ¼” X 8” plate it sure seemed like a giant waste of time. So I am asking you wonderfully incite full people, do I want to look at a bandsaw, or a power hacksaw, or something else. Price is very important consideration (very important). Any & all thoughts are welcome.

Spirit with metal to cut.
 
What kind of cuts do you need to make? Are you sawing the flat to length, or do you want to "rip" down it's length? Do you need to saw curves?
 
I do a little of all kinds of cutting. Mostly cut off including cutting flat or plate stock. I have not even thought about cutting contours, but I am sure I will at some point.
 
Sounds like you could use a vertical bandsaw. If you get a super cheapo you'll be sorry. I'd rather use a hacksaw than some pile of crap bandsaw.
 
Agreed with Mr. Weldon.

A vertical band saw will do your cutoff work (if within the throat limitations of the saw) and cut contours. "90-degree" guides are available for some saws to turn the blade 90 degrees so that the throat depth is no longer important for long pieces.

Specific saws to look for? I'm rather partial to Do-All, but Powermatic and Grob are other choices. If you keep your eyes peeled, a decent example can be found in the $400 range. Be prepared to do some work, however.

If you want to learn all about Do-All saws and what makes them go, read my rebuild thread here:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/rebuilding-do-all-band-saw-180234/
 
well, I see that you're in the rust belt. He should be able to pick up a power hack saw for next to nothing. They're not very fast, but they don't need much babysitting either.

Best wishes, Tom
 
Oliver makes some nice plate saws I use the 383 from the 70's. Oliver is now owned I think by someone else but still makes saws like the 383. With mine I can cut up to 5" thick by 148"ong plate, hard stuff too like C715.
 
My saw needs are in my commercial shop. I have two power hacksaws and a Doall Vertical Bandsaw.

The large (550mm/21") Kasto is my stock cut off saw and my old Racine 18" is a backup and special cut saw.

The positive is that they will run with almost no supervision during the single cut. and as long as the blade is good the cut is very square. Blades are reasonable ($20 - $10.00) if bought on eBay. Also, the machines are very easy on maintenance.

The negative is that they are slow if you need multiple parts fast.

My vertical Doall is a deep throat but I would never want to use it for stock cut off unless it's a very small job. I cut from 20ft & 40ft lengths of stock.

If I had lots of cash I would like to add an automatic cold saw that feeds up from the base. To miter the saw would rotate not the stock. I would get a blade sharpener with it. I would also like a small chop saw type of cold saw for the occasional short stock cut off.
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If I was running a small shop again I would get three saws, all cheap and older.

1 - 14" to 18" Power Hacksaw. Blades are still reasonable and the older machines have lots of room for adjustments. I would put on a 4t blade and use it for bar stock cutoff.

2 - An older Wells or Doall Horizontal Bandsaw set up with a 6 to 8t blade and use it for tubing, pipe and angle cut off.

3 - A Doall vertical and use it for contours and bevels.

Walter A.
 








 
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