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Passivation

Bondo

Hot Rolled
Joined
May 14, 2011
Location
Bridgeton NJ
I have a set of stainless racks that I am fabricating and I only need to passivate the welds.

This would go inside a food facility. I am looking for the spray kind that you apply after fabricating. The job isn't worth sending the whole racks out for Passivation
 
I bought a dynaflux machine a couple years ago and use it all the time. Much better than dealing with pickle paste.
 
How well does it work at getting into awkward corners? I like the electric Passivation machines but I didn't think they work well at awkward joints
 
If you have a local dealer they should be willing to let you demo one. I dont recall having trouble getting anywhere a tig torch can go.
 
We have a surfox unit at work, the pads and solid electrode work OK for corners...
A competitor (cant remember who) to surfox stopped in and had a similar unit with a carbon brush, worked about as well as the surfox but the bristle electrode got into tight corners a bit better.
Both worked off of phosphoric acid (+11 secrete herbs and spices) and electricity. The carbon brush threw off some smoke and a bit of light (potential UV damage) but seemed like they would hold up fairly well.
Either unit was a few thousand dollars...
Similar results can be had with a battery charger and phosphoric acid (citric and acetic work too) with a suitable electrode...
 
^ carbon brushes and just using the tig set turned right down on its arc settings will work just fine too, don't need to burn out a battery charger, the tig - arc settings are ment to spend the day running at near short circuit and keeping the current down means you don't burn the shit out of the work.

Carbon brushes are bloody expensive though, a simple rag wrapped and rubber banded to a bit of stainless works just a well dipped in a small tub of phospheric acid. IMHO it works way way better than the pickle past and is nothing like as nasty. It may not leave a polished finish, but it gets into all the weld crevices just great.
 
Great.

I also have 1 more problem. My customer brought me into the main processing area and said the bottom side of my platform is rusting. 304 stainless diamond plate. I said yeah and..... They said I need to take care of it. I said why is it my problem. They said its the platform you built. I said what about the other 2 platforms right next to it rusting way worse then mine.... You think the open 55 gal drum of chlorine that is underneath the 3 platforms could be the problem lol......


How can I get that rust off (say 8' x 32' total) the bottom of the platform and make it not come back? We have used scotchbrite pads to remove the rust, but need something to passivate that
 
So... is it rusting in fuzzy patches, streaks, a combination of the 2, or the entire surface like it was a plain carbon steel being hosed down with salt water?
304/316 *should* passivate them self's upon exposure to oxygen. All of the passivating processes use acid to dissolve the "free iron" off the stainless and help erode the surface down to end up with a layer of chromium ions. The second they hit oxygen they form that happy little chrome oxide skin that makes stainless, stainless. Iron/Steel that gets smushed onto the surface during fabrication rusts and makes it look like the stainless is rusting. In some environments it will cause the rust to spread by fowling up the chrome oxide layer... Stainless and corrosion get weird fast...Chlorine will make it worse.
 
304 ain't going to stop rusting in a chlorine rich enviroment, time to ditch the customer and find a new one!
 
Well they told me that it should have been 316 and I said remember how you wanted to reduce the price by doing this.

I showed them a 2" 316 solid stainless propress valve that I did not put in that was fully rusted. I said so is that my problem too. They just shook their heads and said no.

I told them before I ever did work in the room that the machinery in there was passivated. They don't want to wait 2 weeks for large units to get passivated. So they ended up with out it. Plus the fact they didn't want to pay for it lol.
 
Oh and it is spotty in the area it is rusting. Meaning in completely random spots, it looks like plain carbon steel is rusting. This is also happening on the platform I built which I know no steel tool or grinding dust touched it.
 
For years we have consulted Stellar Solutions for what to use. We use their products with real good success. Citric Acid is slower but one heck of a lot safer than other acids. We have used the brush on gel but prefer to soak our parts overnight in a tank. If you are building large rack soaking might not be an alternative. Contact name and number is below.
Good luck - Walter

Paul Evensen [[email protected]]
Stellar Solutions, Inc.
847-854-2800
 
Even 316 is no good for chlorine contact. We have had to go to hastelloy for this application. And we use the stellar solutions products too. But for removing rust we have a product in house called cip 100 which is really I think just a strong base detergent and our guys have found this does a good job taking rust off. I don't think it passivates though.
 
Are Your Stainless Steel Surfaces Being Corroded by Repeated Bleach Use?

above is link with good pics on lab test results for your customer to consider,
tests on both 304 and 316SS

"Bleach diluted at 1:10 and 1:50 showed corrosion of the stainless steel. Coupons exposed to NaDCC solutions at levels of 187 and 937 ppm active chlorine did not show corrosion, suggesting that NaDCC can serve as an effective alternative disinfectant to liquid bleach."
 
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my stainless is rusting!

Dynaflux came out with a brush applicator 1+ years ago, I don't know what the bristles are made of, but it isn't 2k, more like 1K, still a lot for a little battery charger. I've been meaning to get some of their juice and see if it works with one of my rectifiers. seems like inert (as in plastic) would do the trick for the applicator brush. just let the weld cool first!

I've been there, "my stainless is rusting!" "why didn't you use 316!" 316 is more resistant to CL corrosion, but not impervious. the key is to make sure the client understands that "stainless" is not impervious to corrosion, they must do THIER part to prevent corrosion. "just use marine grade, it will NEVER rust!" etc, etc, I think I will write up a standard disclaimer for all SS work...
 
No inert won't work for the brush, it has to form one side of a cell, hence you have to have a electric connection to the liquid in the bristles, a nylon brush won't work, a thick bit of rag wrapped around something conductive will. Need be little more than a stainless strip and a couple of elastic bands to hold it.

Cold welds take longer to clean than warm, but obviously warms relative, gotta be well bellow boiling point. You don't need there magic sauce either, just phosphoric, citric or similar acid with a pinch of disinfectant to help it wet the surface. Must be a chlorine free solution though!!

key thing i find is degreased parts pre weld is a must, the oxide film absorbs oil like a sponge and that then sheds the acid solution, gotta pass the water bead break test for oil free and your working great, but a oily finger print on the weld your cleaning and the process stops damn near stone dead!
 
of corse it needs +-

No inert won't work for the brush, it has to form one side of a cell, hence you have to have a electric connection to the liquid in the bristles, a nylon brush won't work, a thick bit of rag wrapped around something conductive will. Need be little more than a stainless strip and a couple of elastic bands to hold it.

well of corse you need the electrical connection. a metal ferrule brush or an appropriate wire(s) bundled in the back of the bristles contacting the electrolyte was assumed.

any details on particular voltage and polarity?
 
problem with a typical brush ferruel, there not stainless, start mixing material current and a acid and you can leave all sorts of residue. Now if its something pure like titanium, you might be fine, but a typical brush ferrule which is chrome plated steel, you could end up really screwing up a part.

Polarity, i never remember, but just try one, the correct way around is pretty obvious results wise in seconds, incorrect way with fresh acid, clean brush does nothing much noticeable!

Voltage - current is all down to acid strength in all plating applications, all affected by current densities too, yes to a degree higher voltages work faster as does stronger chemicals but it can leave a rougher finish, get the voltage right and you can get a electro polishing effect, but its kinda fiddly. I have used both the tig as a power source in stick mode turned down to 10 amps (0 arc force if your set has that option) and it worked fine, equally i have also done it with a small circa 12V regulated power supply, Not a battery charger. IMHO you don't want too much power, the brush wears and especially if your using the rag covered wand approach it seams to realy eat through any material i have tried for the cover, metal to metal and you get a arc, which leaves a nasty mark! Less power smaller mark!
 
Some of the more expensive passivation machines start to throw in some waves and such, but I studied a few of them in depth.

My "applicator" is a copper lightning rod wrapped in fiberglass cloth.
 








 
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