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TIG welding - which way ?

AlexO

Banned
Joined
Sep 12, 2004
Location
RSA
I TIG weld every day for ages but only small stuff and...I'm crap at it. I weld by the book - towards the rod. Make puddle, dip, melt, repeat. However, when I go away from the rod ( the other way around ) I can make beautiful, machine like welds and can't see any difference.
Is there any ???

And secondly : is there any trick in having a stable arm when welding vertically or upside down ? I don't have a touch of Parkie but my arm just doesn't seem to want to follow my brain.
 
Hmm. If you want to emulate the welders I have met, you need to look into drugs and alcohol. Seems to be an industry standard here in the US.
 
Hmm. If you want to emulate the welders I have met, you need to look into drugs and alcohol. Seems to be an industry standard here in the US.

:D
LoL! I am not a good welder, and maybe not even a half-ass welder, but most welders (by trade or whatever), I've met, seem to think they are gods among men. :rolleyes5:
 
I TIG weld every day for ages but only small stuff and...I'm crap at it. I weld by the book - towards the rod. Make puddle, dip, melt, repeat. However, when I go away from the rod ( the other way around ) I can make beautiful, machine like welds and can't see any difference.
Is there any ???

Dunno.
Maybe you are forced to keep the rod at bigger angle because weld bead will be on your way and because of that need the electrode pulled out more to have enough room to get your rod in the pool.. might have oxidation issues at some point.

Do you use the technique only on mild steel or also on SS and alu?
Mild steel is very forgiving compared to stainless or alu and lets you make all sort of compromises.
 
Dunno.
Maybe you are forced to keep the rod at bigger angle because weld bead will be on your way and because of that need the electrode pulled out more to have enough room to get your rod in the pool.. might have oxidation issues at some point.

Do you use the technique only on mild steel or also on SS and alu?
Mild steel is very forgiving compared to stainless or alu and lets you make all sort of compromises.

I weld only mild steel or some sort of other better but still weldable variety. Never tried SS or Al. I silver solder a lot though but I suppose that does not count. :)
 
Hmm. If you want to emulate the welders I have met, you need to look into drugs and alcohol. Seems to be an industry standard here in the US.

Alcohol is becoming expensive here but I am legally allowed to grow it it seems.
 
Getting really good at TIG welding is the same way you get to Carnegie Hall .... practice, practice, practice ..... and then practice some more.

BTW, there are a lot of good videos on YouTube. Check 'em out and forget the drugs and alcohol. :D
 
Getting really good at TIG welding is the same way you get to Carnegie Hall .... practice, practice, practice ..... and then practice some more.

BTW, there are a lot of good videos on YouTube. Check 'em out and forget the drugs and alcohol. :D

Well, I'm practicing for some 30 years. Not really improving. :)
 
Getting really good at TIG welding is the same way you get to Carnegie Hall .... practice, practice, practice ..... and then practice some more.

BTW, there are a lot of good videos on YouTube.

I agree with this. If you haven't already, spend a little free time on YouTube watching Jody (weldingtipsandtricks) or someone reputable. Pay attention to what he has to say, because it's 100% relevant information that I have never found a reason to disagree with. The man knows his stuff and usually explains things pretty well. Besides looking up information and watching videos, the only other thing is practice. I've spent a lot of time just blowing through (not in the literal sense of making holes in) material, just practicing my form. I would say it also helps if you work around people who are very good welders, because it motivates you to improve on yourself even further. A year ago I didn't even understand TIG. Now I can weld razor blades together to make awesome throwing stars for my entertainment. AND they look good. lol

22580068_167458680502191_4254589153104101376_n.jpg

Edit: Jody also speaks of the benefits of welding away from the rod in some video; I can't remember the video. But he talks about it and when you might want to do it for some purpose. I can't remember any of what he said about it, but I know he talks about it somewhere. I never do it, myself.
 
I have seen this topic discussed before, in the real world sometimes you just have to do what you have to do to get the nozzle, your filler rod and your eyeballs into position. Many a bridge and building has a bead that was run backwards because the welder was out of a comfortable position.
 
I have seen this topic discussed before, in the real world sometimes you just have to do what you have to do to get the nozzle, your filler rod and your eyeballs into position. Many a bridge and building has a bead that was run backwards because the welder was out of a comfortable position.

You know it's a bad spot when you have to bend the tig electrode to 90 degrees and supply the shielding gas with separate hose/nozzle. :rolleyes5:
 
I weld only mild steel or some sort of other better but still weldable variety. Never tried SS or Al. I silver solder a lot though but I suppose that does not count. :)

I get the best welds when working with stainless.

Unsatisfactory work (in my opinion of standards) occurs when I have problems seeing what I'm doing.

Going in straight lines is easier when your wrist is riding on a straight edge.

When I have a job to do and start to have negative thoughts about how crappy a job I am going to do it usually works out that way.
 
#1 AlexO
Are photographs available?
Material type, thickness, butt or fillet weld etc.
Equipment available.

"Make puddle, dip, melt, repeat" Really? What is this melt? We already have a weld pool.
"when I go away from the rod" Are you describing a process where the torch leads the rod and the filler rod is inserted at the rear,
in the direction of travel, of the weld pool? If so it sounds a likely recipe for poor penetration. If not please describe the process.

What follows is from a thirty years out of date perspective, so anybody else is encouraged to tell me it's rubbish.

"Vertically or upside down", in the text books there are diagrams showing the various weld positions with angles demonstrating the accepted terminology and descriptions for the positions. There will be changes in the recommended weld parameters for these positions, almost always it will be lower and slower. An expert can, to some extent, ignore the text books, I reccomend you follow the text books until you can write one.

Nobody does overhead welding if they can avoid it, it's difficult, it's tiring, it's easy to produce sub-standard welds, it's even easier to produce welds that lack something in the cosmetic department. Most of the hot stuff goes down the welder's neck.

What you can do, in all positions, is to rig a support for your hand/wrist. Clamp some, smooth, tube or angle along the intended weld path at an appropriate distance from the material. Unless you have repeat orders this will likely be Heath-Robinson, or I should probably say Rube Goldberg, since this a US site. No matter, if the support allows the welder to move at the desired speed along the joint, it will be found a help to an acolyte. It also reduces burns.

Having said you can rig a support, you can. But if you only have one part to do and your competitors have welders who do not rely on rigging support(s), you will not be in business very long.

"is there any trick in . . ." The trick is don't do it. Move the work to the easiest position. "Small stuff", your description, clamp it, tack weld it, turn it over as often as required so you can weld downhand. When you can do the easy positions perfectly in your sleep, THEN you can save some time with the more difficult positions. You can get all the advice available on PM but you have to do you own practise.

If you have enough welding or get bigger stuff, search "universal balance welding positioner" and view the videos on Youtube. The prices are jaw dropping, but the principle is simple. A shop made one will work just fine and all you need is some round tubes, some allthread and some nuts and bolts. They are very good for back problems, avoiding them, that is.

This was composed hours ago and now contains some otiose statements. Please ignore them.
 
Well, hard to do those - I make fixtures and it's all different every time. I also need to clamp and move around a lot to keep distortion to a minimum. Most of my stuff is 8-10mm but I might go as low as 4 and as high as 16mm. Don't have current for more than that.
 
last i looked, there is a welding/fab forum on this site.

to the OP... what machine are you struggling with? a POS welder will make life miserable . if its in poor repair,
or just sucked in the first place, you'd better be a master welder to compensate.

a good machine , like a syncrowave will have adjustable parameters like slope and ac frequency and go down to 3 amps
to weld razorblades, if need be.
 
Me i will often stick clamps on jobs to use as rests. Alcohol indeed helps, cafinated anything and shakiness gets worse, can well imagine weed in low doses helps. A lot of its in how you grind the tungsten’s too and torch angle. Watch welding tricks and tips on youtube, don't go by some of the other videos on there though as theres some right fucking hacks sprouting crap (weld.com)!

It is about 10% knowledge then 90% practice though. But can't be stressed enough, you want good work the details matter, filler rod angles, amperage and travel speeds all come into play same as gas flow and torch angle so your not only sheilding the puddle but have enough flowing over the hot weld too!

Prep can not be over stated either, steel needs to be clean, if your not happy to lick it, IMHO its not clean enough to tig. As all the welding processes go TIG is the most demanding in prep. Mig and ARC you can get away with a lot, TIG there’s no flux making up for your laziness!

Other key thing is you have to be able to really see what your doing. That means a half descent helmet (not high money, but you want a good one, i love the cheaper 3m speedglass ones with the vari shade option) Clean lenses in the helmet, if they have been wiped the glare from the scraches will be enough to stuff it up, you want new ones! They last ages only TIGing with em, but the fog from even a few day's migging will cause you dificulty. If you need reading glasses you want to look into the cheater lenses that clip on the inside too.
 
Stainless is the easiest, doesn't shunt heat as fast, copper is the worst imho, and it goes from solid to quicksilver in a heartbeat, very fluid
Mild steel lives in the middle. Get a tig finger!, or a prosthetic pinkey!
Mark
 
You Tig weld towards the rod because you need to heat the base material, otherwise your nice looking weld is just lying on top. You also want to keep the filler wire inside the gas envelope where it stays hot but not melting. Pulling it back too far contaminates and it gets cold so it doesn’t flow right into the puddle.

I used to Tig weld 3/4” aluminum nipples with a fishmouth onto 3/4” headers. I could do it all the way around in one pass, no leaks, but only if I didn’t have even one cup of coffee! I would do about 100 at a time before I got too tired and shaky.
 
You Tig weld towards the rod because you need to heat the base material, otherwise your nice looking weld is just lying on top. You also want to keep the filler wire inside the gas envelope where it stays hot but not melting. Pulling it back too far contaminates and it gets cold so it doesn’t flow right into the puddle.

I used to Tig weld 3/4” aluminum nipples with a fishmouth onto 3/4” headers. I could do it all the way around in one pass, no leaks, but only if I didn’t have even one cup of coffee! I would do about 100 at a time before I got too tired and shaky.

This got me thinking and I figured out that that's the way I used to solder - going from left to right. I do keep the filler rod inside and the cup tilted towards the right and I always use high Amps to get good penetration.
 








 
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