Results 1 to 9 of 9
Thread: Troubleshooting my Plasma Cutter
11-18-2006, 11:07 AM #1
Just got a YA2225 Snap-on Plasma Cutter on Ebay. I'm new to these machines,maybe i have a simple problem,but i can't get it to work. It turns on ,air pressure sensor activates(70ps in)when i press the switch,but i get no Plasma. Then after afew seconds of holding the switch on the torch on the air sensor drops out. Could i have a problem with the torch consumables?
11-18-2006, 12:43 PM #2
I am unfamiliar with SO's torch I think Century builds for them.
Does the unit have error lights?
Nine times out of 10 the problem is in the torch itself and the nozzle and electrode are to blame.
The electrode comes in contact with a buttom inside of the torch handle and this can get dirty and cause a failure. I have witnessed this on both my Miller and Hypertherm plasmas.
Maybe this will get you going in the right direction
11-18-2006, 07:18 PM #3
TFPace is right, it is a century. Give me the number off the back and I will look up its schematic at work monday.
11-18-2006, 07:53 PM #4
have the same plasma, had to do a bit of work on mine to get it to work. mine does not light off unless in contact with work then lift off..then stays lit if trigger remains depressed...but better than nothin..as wasnt workin before. there is a helpful guy here....got my parts from him...new board, fan, consumables..etc
give him a call
11-19-2006, 10:04 PM #5
Try turning the air pressure up a few PSI. Unless you have a REALLY good air supply (huge tank and a big dia hose) you could be getting a few PSI pressure drop at the machine causing the switch to drop out.
Had that problem when I first got my Plazcut; it's supposed to be at 70psi but I have to set the reg at around 75 to keep the switch from dropping out.
11-21-2006, 03:36 AM #6
Had the same problem with out Hypertherm, a combination of low air and no contact at start.
Like plasticosmd, we found that a good contact with the work, and then lifting off an 1/8" or so gets you a good cut without any wandering, if you've got a good tip and the rest of the guts aren't all torn up. You may want to buy new consumables just to see what it's supposed to look like. Depending on the operator's experience, you can eat consumables like candy.
11-21-2006, 06:24 PM #7
you will also eat up consumables if your air is not clean. oil from your pump or water will take them out pretty quick. my esab was throwing a power code and would not work turned out my sheild had come loose witch let the guts in the tip come loose wasnt but 1/4 turn but thats enough for mine
11-21-2006, 07:35 PM #8
i used to have the same machine, this is the least of your concerns, the consumables for this machine are astronomical. never had any problems not relating to consumables with this machine. even profax parts were slightly off but still ridiculously expensive.
i always had to hit the trigger twice, the first turned on the air, the second started the arc, even if you aren't holding the torch anywhere near the work you should still get a small arc. this is not good to do as it shortens the electrode life dramatically, which leads me to believe you may need a new electrode. if its a new to you torch it would probably be a good idea to replace all the consumables so you know exactly what you've got. i had problems with profax parts not lining up exactly right and the electrode and contact tip didn't seem to make contact. i ended up tearing the torch head apart and ordering a hypertherm head that was supposed to be universal. torch head was 500$ but katrina came and destroyed the welding shop and their records of my ordering it, as well as my machine. if you can get it running, and if you find affordable parts let me know so i can stew with envy.
12-04-2006, 12:18 AM #9
rusty, sorry to hear of your bad luck. regarding the ceramic ring, electrodes, and tips..i got them all through the link above..and dont think i paid more than 50 bucks for a whole bunch..he is a good source if needed