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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rimcanyon View Post
    I overheated the TWECO torch on my TIG (20+ yr. old Miller Synchrowave 250) enough to deform the plastic sheath, most likely due to poor water circulation through the torch. With the sheath slid back, there is no real damage, the hoses and connections appear o.k., so I think the torch is still ok.

    The pump has always seemed to be weak, and I don't have a good sense of how much water it should pump or how to test it. I visited the local welding supply (Airgas in Salinas), and nobody there was familiar with water cooled torches or replacement pumps, although I can't say I am surprised. That shop used to be a Victor shop, then Airco, now Airgas, and the level of knowledge has gone down and down and down. I guess all the TIG units they sell don't come with water cooled torches???

    Here is a photo of the water cooling unit, which has no name on it, so if you recognize it please advise. When the TIG welder is on, water flows into the jar in the foreground, which drains into the tank, but the flow is pretty small.

    Attachment 155253

    Attachment 155254

    Thanks for any help in locating repair parts for the pump...

    -Dave
    Cooler looks very similar to my Tweco TC900 but the pump isnt the same (mine has a Procon fitted). First thing you need to do is detach the water outlet and check the amount of flow. If it seems less than you would expect drain the coolant tank and see how if the water is nice and clean. If its not then the pump could be worn/damaged and need to be rebuilt or replaced. If the torch has got very hot the coolant hoses might be damaged, and it would be a good idea to check them very carefully.

  2. #22
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    I think that is a Dynaflux 1000 Series Cooling System. These retail for over $1000. It is like Bernard, Miller Coolmate, or the Lincoln Cool Arc or even a Tweco. I had several of these I let go of a few years back on EBay and Craigslist. One thing that can happen is the fan and pump are driven by he same motor as I recall and the fan bearings can go bad or gum up slowing things down. When it is running right It will shoot a stream of water nearly 30 ft. across the shop from an open hose.
    Dynaflux website says 1.8 gpm at 50 psi They are even still in business and offer parts.

    Open it up and give it a good cleaning and repack the bearing/sleeve busing. It seems like I might have soaked min in some diluted Muriatic acid for a bit to take off any guk followed by thorough rinsing. I can't remember for sure, but there might have even been a grease zerk.

    Product # R1-XXX, R1 Cooling System On Dynaflux, Inc.

    EDIT:
    Sorry, somehow this old post was resurrected from the dead and I bit with the above reply.
    Last edited by jmullett; 04-17-2018 at 10:14 AM.

  3. #23
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    if that oberdorfer fits, jump on it. I had to rebuild my old (mid 80s vintage) Miller Radiator water cooling unit last year, and a new oberdorfer cost me something like $175. I took mine completely apart, and found a quarter inch of green slime living in the stainless water tank, and also had to repair a couple of damaged and leaking plastic fittings as well. Now it works well, and pumps pretty quickly. I have also found that sometimes, you just have to toss the torch body and buy a new one. I use weldcraft brand tig torches, and you can pretty much buy any and every part for them, so you can just buy a new torch body, not the whole thing. We weld a lot though, so consider a torch a long term consumable- new ones about every 5 to 8 years. Somebody usually burns thru a hose set a year, on average, although I have been switching my hoses (3 tig machines) to the woven cloth covered rubber hose sets, rather than the plastic tubing, and those seem to last a lot longer and be more resistant to the "laying the torch hoses over a red hot recent weld) syndrome. Nothing, however, cures the "I forgot to turn on the water cooler" syndrome. One of my machines automatically turns on the pump, unless you thoughtfully manually turn off the water cooler in addition to turning off the welder- the other main machine requires independent switching of the pump. Which not everybody remembers every time.

  4. #24
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    the cooler unit on a TIG is one of the most overpriced bits of gear..ever.

    I’ve used submersible pumps in compound buckets, carbonator pumps,(found in abundance here in NYC, every time a bar shuts down, usually Procon with a higher bypass PSI), garden hose spigot to the gutter, but NEVER bought a new unit for the crazy money they ask...

    The key is keep it clean, it’s like a Fishtank, (without animals pooping in it, hopefully!) change out the water, more often when it’s warm, don’t let it freeze.. simple really, just some water, moving..

  5. #25
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    Also, if you want to save on electricity it isn’t too hard to wire up a current sensing on/off switch to circulate only when actually welding (Hall effect sensor with delay?)

    Those 1/3 hp and shaded pole fan motors running all day when “arc on” is usually 15-30% for TIG, waste huge amounts of electricity cumulatively when considering many thousands of units running needlessly at any given time.

    Does anyone sell a current sensing cooler now?

  6. #26
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    One thing i will add, if your running a pump system, you want the proper coolant for its lubrication value to help your pump life, distilled water is a really shit lubricant and does nothing for your pump life.

    That said, i just use a flow meter and have it tapped into my bore hole water supply, water does run through a particle filter and a carbon block, but the water quality is better than mains here and theres no build up in the torch or plumbing even after 8+ years of running this set-up now. Water in the torch should not get near boiling do to flow rates, hence theres no lime-scale build up to cause issues and the well water here rates at the lighter end of hard water, certainly more than enough to cause scale in kettles and such.


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