What's new
What's new

Welding 1" thick aluminum plate

M. Moore

Titanium
Joined
Jun 8, 2007
Location
Vancouver Island, B.C. Canada
Hello all,
I have a small job to weld up some 1"x10" aluminum bar stock. 6061
I have to make two square boxes 25" x40" butt welded.

I have a Miller 200 tig machine and I am wondering if this is possible with my machine?
I have welded some 1/2" plate in the past but I don't have a lot of experience welding aluminum. I had to preheat and achieved a respectable weld.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Michael
 
Almost irrespective of the tig set that's going to need a significant preheat. Whilst with enough preheat you might be able to do it, i would sure be tempted to farm out.
 
This is more of a mig job. Vee'd out, preheated and 3/32 wire mig.

Basically way to big for your equipment. You might be able to get away with a 300 amp mig machine and quite a few passes. That suckers is going to get hot.
 
I have welded 1" thick alluminium with full penetration using a high end 250 amp tig, it took a bloody eternity & the runs were only 2-1/2" .....I assure you that I wont be doing it again any time soon.

If you are contemplating 10" runs in 1" plate :crazy: forget it....even if you could get enough heat into it you would be there for a week....they dont make gloves thick enough.....and your internal chest organs would be medium to well done.

As said above, thats a job for mig with a lot of amps

regards

Brian
 
With a 200 amp machine and gas cooled torch, and a ton of preheating.... Its like taking a plastic knife to a gun fight. Yea if they miss every shot you might be able to poke thier eye out while they reload.
Even with my Syncrowave 350, I would have to pre-heat, use helium and take 2 damn long. When jobs like this come in to my shop i give them 2 prices. The " i want it now " price and the " I can wait " price. If they can wait, I wait untill i have another large job in and I rent a miller 350p. I don't do enough of this type of work to justify buying a big wire feeder, but for about 200 bucks I can rent one from my welding supply joint. Its well worth it, and the customer is paying for it anyhow....
 
Excellent replies as usual.
I suspected my machine was a bit too small. I dislike being limited by my machines, but that is another post.....

Just so I appear to know what I am talking about what is the preferred preheat temp
when using a big mig for this job?
Also I would like to prepare the joints for the welder, how much "V"ing do I need?

Preferably I would like to only weld the outside of the joint. If I do the inside then I will have to grind it smooth for a powder coat finish. Grinding the inside corner smooth without damaging the large flat surfaces might be tricky.

These will be standing up and the top inside joints don't show but the bottom ones will as they are the supports/legs for a very large boardroom table.


Comments?

Thanks
Michael
 
I wouldn't worry about putting a "V" in the corners; just overlap them like this. Leaves the inside corners clean and it's fairly easy to square up the outsides. Use a sanding disk and finish with some fine Scotchbrite...

p390745962-3.jpg
 
Depending on how you want the corner, you can Overlap the joint as the post above me is pictured. If you are powder coating this, that hides a lot. You can get a flap wheel for your grinder made for non ferrous metals and do it quickly and neatly. As far as preheating, It depends on if your going to wire feed it or tig it. With th wire feeder, I would heat it up to about 150 just to take the chill out of it. With the wire feed, You cant back off the heat once your into the weld, you can only speed up. So if you get it to hot, in the long run of the weld your going to have the pice very very hot. With the tig, I would heat it up to 350-400 since you have control of your heat. You can do this with your 200, But you will have to lay down a root pass than many, Many, Many stringer passes. One option you could consider since you are powder coating it and weld appearance is not critical. . You could pre-heat it and give it a nice root pass with the tig machine, then fill the rest of the V with a wire feeder. This will speed it up.
 
If there being powder coated, why the hell do they need to be aluminium and this thick? Would be far simpler in steel!
 
I wouldn't worry about putting a "V" in the corners; just overlap them like this. Leaves the inside corners clean and it's fairly easy to square up the outsides. Use a sanding disk and finish with some fine Scotchbrite...

p390745962-3.jpg

LK, thanks for the image. I have cut all the pieces to length and doing a V would be simpler at the moment. One reason is that the base is actually an isosceles trapezoid (or trapezium). The top and bottom are parallel and the sides angle at 7º with the bottom length shorter than the top length.
This results in a top length of 40" and a bottom length of 34" the two sides being 25" with a finished dimension of 42x36x25". The thought being that if I only had to clean up the top joint and the sides of the weld then that would be less work.
I should have asked about the welding before I cut to length, sigh, live and learn.

In my limited experience it is difficult to tig weld this type of joint and be able to grind down to the finished size. I assume the mig welding allows the build up and the "fairly easy" process to square things. All edges must finish straight and square.


Hay
You can come over and use my stuff if you what some experience
Collector
Shane, that is a nice offer but the job doesn't come with travel expenses. I am sure you have a welder big enough for this little job.


Depending on how you want the corner, you can Overlap the joint as the post above me is pictured. If you are powder coating this, that hides a lot. You can get a flap wheel for your grinder made for non ferrous metals and do it quickly and neatly. As far as preheating, It depends on if your going to wire feed it or tig it. With th wire feeder, I would heat it up to about 150 just to take the chill out of it. With the wire feed, You cant back off the heat once your into the weld, you can only speed up. So if you get it to hot, in the long run of the weld your going to have the pice very very hot. With the tig, I would heat it up to 350-400 since you have control of your heat. You can do this with your 200, But you will have to lay down a root pass than many, Many, Many stringer passes. One option you could consider since you are powder coating it and weld appearance is not critical. . You could pre-heat it and give it a nice root pass with the tig machine, then fill the rest of the V with a wire feeder. This will speed it up.

jamie,
Great info here and exactly what I was asking about. Also thumbs up on saying it could be done with my little 200.
I am not sure why you think the weld appearance is not critical?
From what I have seen the powder coating does not cover anything, it will follow whatever is there, if there is a slight ding in the metal that will show as a slight ding in the powder coated finish. Am I wrong?? Is there some magical powder coat process that covers all sins?
I like your idea about the tig and wire feed for speed. However I still don't know how big to make the V?


If there being powder coated, why the hell do they need to be aluminium and this thick? Would be far simpler in steel!

Great input here, 1/8" steel would hold up the table but it might be a bit wobbly. 1" thick steel would have been a bit heavy.Proportion and Logistics mainly, as it would have taken too many people to move the steel bases into place. This is a boardroom table, it is going into a Boardroom, not exactly forklift friendly. It is also a LARGE table and the bases need to be in the correct proportion to the weight of the top.
The roof on the Parthenon could be held up with a 6" steel pipe but it wouldn't look very good now would it?
As it is the 1" aluminum weighs 170lbs per base and it was extremely fast to cut to size. I did all the cutting on my sliding saw in less than an hour. Perfect square cuts, 7º with a very smooth cut edge. Oh yeah, no clamping. It did take a1/2 hour to clean the saw though.
Also very easy to create the 1/8" round-over on all the edges, I do it all the time with a high speed router.The cost was another reason, as the steel was the nearly the same as the aluminum and the steel would need a lot of surface prep before the powder coating. Time=money as the aluminum is easy to sand and prep.
Do you need any more reasons?? If you can enlighten me then I will know better for next time.

Michael
 
When i say powder coating hides it, I am talking about grinding marks. In my area there are several powder coating outfits, but only 2 that do it properly. Good powder coating will hide grinding marks, Undercuts ect ect.

For Ving the weld area out, I would machine it on the mill.
If i didnt have a mill, i would use a flap wheel for non ferrous metals. It will knock it down a lot faster than sanding disk.

My last opinion... By the sounds of this project, it does not have to be welded at all. Welding it will warp the material, and over the 40 inch span you will notice it a lot more. Why not drill and tap it the shorter peices, and drill and countersink the long pieces. About (5) 3/8 16 cap screws on each corner would probly be strong enough for the aplication and a lot faster than using a 200 amp machine that usually have 150 amo torches.
 
My last opinion... By the sounds of this project, it does not have to be welded at all. Welding it will warp the material, and over the 40 inch span you will notice it a lot more. Why not drill and tap it the shorter peices, and drill and countersink the long pieces. About (5) 3/8 16 cap screws on each corner would probly be strong enough for the aplication and a lot faster than using a 200 amp machine that usually have 150 amo torches.

I was going to recommend this also. I have used flat head socket screws to fasten thick stainless projects with stainless fasteners and then weld fill and grind them back to flush. Perhaps you can find some in aluminum? In furniture applications where finish is critical this is a good trick.
 
Jamie,
I have a mill and have just finished drilling and elongating the attachment holes. I could use it for the "V" but still don't know how big to make the v.

I did consider bolting it together. However it is on an angle and that does complicate things a little bit. Still doable but less work than welding? Drill and tap and countersink 40 holes? I have a mill but no dro. I had considered welding over the hole on a fastener but wasn't sure if that would work over a steel cap screw. If that wouldn't work then bolting is definitely out and I have to go down the welding road.

As I tried to explain earlier, the shorter 25" verticals are full length and they would have to be drilled with the bolts showing from the side.
Like I said earlier I was hoping to weld from the top and down the 1" side faces as this would reduce the amount of welded area showing to just the 1" sides. (assuming I don't have to do the inside corner)

Whetstone,
Thanks for the input, it sounds like you have done some furniture work before. I have another job in stainless to do, a coffee table base, and I may incorporate that technique.


As a side note I also ran the stock through the thickness sander and it took out all the dings and scratches really well, better than I thought it would. It only took a few passes through with 80 grit.
I have two local welders that could do the job and one is away for a week and the other I will go and talk to tomorrow.
I will keep you all updated on the progress.

Thanks for the help and suggestions. It is quite good to discuss and debate all the options available.
Once again my apprenticeship with the PM continues.

Michael
 
You could not use the steel bolts and weld fill, the weld would surly get contaminated. You would have to use aluminum bolts, a quick search shows mcmaster sell them up to 1/4" in a flathead. I cant picture what the legs look like but I would tack them together before I drilled and taped them to insure alignment with out having to hold excessive tolerances. But this all depends on there shape and size.

M. Moore, What type of furniture do you make? Do you have any pictures? Here are two of mine, chair is cork and stainless and the table in the back round is maple and cherry.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN2104.jpg
    DSCN2104.jpg
    91 KB · Views: 834
Hello all,
I have a small job to weld up some 1"x10" aluminum bar stock. 6061
I have to make two square boxes 25" x40" butt welded.

One reason is that the base is actually an isosceles trapezoid (or trapezium). The top and bottom are parallel and the sides angle at 7º with the bottom length shorter than the top length.
This results in a top length of 40" and a bottom length of 34" the two sides being 25" with a finished dimension of 42x36x25". The thought being that if I only had to clean up the top joint and the sides of the weld then that would be less work.

This should answer your question about size? And each base is 175 lbs. These bases are big and once tacked together they would be quite unwieldy to put onto the K&T 2H mill.

You could not use the steel bolts and weld fill, the weld would surly get contaminated. You would have to use aluminum bolts, a quick search shows mcmaster sell them up to 1/4" in a flathead. I cant picture what the legs look like but I would tack them together before I drilled and taped them to insure alignment with out having to hold excessive tolerances. But this all depends on there shape and size.

M. Moore, What type of furniture do you make? Do you have any pictures? Here are two of mine, chair is cork and stainless and the table in the back round is maple and cherry.

One thought I had for the bolt/fill/weld is to plug the counterbore first with a short plug and then weld over that. Not sure if that would work with a steel bolt.

I make all kinds of furniture (chairs a specialty) and have seen your chair elsewhere on the PM.
You can have a look at my stuff at MichaelMooreFineWoodwork.ca

Michael
 
Yes, I can see that these might be too large to drill in the mill and welding might be the best solution. In the past I have hand drilled/tapped/CS pieces that were too large/awkward to fit on a mill or drill, but that would be no fun to have to do 40+ holes. I thought of counter boring too, and it could work, but would add two more steps at least. I would counter bore in steps so that I could use a plug that is a larger diameter than the bolt
head.
 
I agree with macona i did lots of 1" alum plate with a mig, spoolgun and a torch to preheat the parts. And no powdercoat doesn't cover anything it just conforms to the part underneath...Bob
 








 
Back
Top