Which Rod & Amperage
Haven't welded in awhile and got my Dad's welder & everything else. While being a truck mechanic 20 years ago, I used whatever they had in the holder so I'm not good at picking rod or amperage. The Lincoln welder was always set at 130 amps and the rod was 1/8". I've always used 90 amps with 3/32 6013 rod.
I need to weld a couple of 1/8"x1.5" angle steel posts onto a 1/4" thick plate perpendicular. They're 6" high and need to support 300 lbs pulling tension between them.
What rod and amperage should I use to weld this 1/8" angle to the 1/4" plate?
I've got lots of 7018 1/8", 6013 3/32 & 1/8, 1-2lbs of 6010 and some US Forge Rustbuster 3/32.
If you're welding in position (which on this small weldment you probably are) 7018 @ 120 amps & you'll make a pretty looking bead.
If welding out of position 6010 @ 95-105 amps, depends on horizontal, vertical (up), or overhead.
I hope that these aren't some old rods that you've had kicking around the shop in an open container. Both these rods should be kept in an oven to keep them dry & not pick up moisture.
Throw the other rods out.
I'd agree with the post above, though since you'll be using 3/32" 6010 a little slower rate of travel with that rod. Personally I would ground to the 1/4" plate...and I would weld DC reverse polarity
6010 is a hot, deep penetrating rod, especially dcrp, so I would do a couple test beads 1st on some scrap to see how you like it against the 7018
Thanks for the info!!
The 7018 rod isn't new. If I find I need to pick up some new rod, which would you guys recommend for this application? Would you still recommend the 7018?
Last edited by 3in1; 09-26-2011 at 07:53 AM.
My recommendation still stands. 6013 are designed for light material & don't provide any penetration. I bought some over 20 yrs ago & they're still sitting in my oven. I never use them.
Never heard of your Rustbuster. If you're welding dirty, rusty material, use 6010 or 6011. Both provide deep penetration & will burn through dirt & rust.
Your old rods might still work for you, but for x-ray quality welds, 7018 must be kept dry. Chances are you won't be x-raying your welds.
imo for somebody who isn't doing a lot of stick welding, and probably would be doing more odd job stuff on a wider range of thickness material a 3/32 rod is a little more practical than an 1/8" rod, especially in 6010.
You can always change polarity, current, feed and rate of travel to control your bead if you want more buildup...or do multiple passes for heavier beads with the smaller rod...
for me sometimes the 1/8" rod was too much for smaller more delicate stick work. Based on your situation if I had to buy some new rod, I would get the 6010 3/32 rod. I did nothing but stick weld for years and years and years...ornamental and structural, and it was my main rod.
7018 lays a nice bead because the puddle doesn't freeze as fast as the 6010, and not as much spatter either...but you can still do nice work with the 6010 and it strikes sooo much easier too.
Both rods give a good strong weld, both nice to work with imo. Can't go wrong with either. Id start around 75-80 amps for your job with the 6010 3/32, DCEP...test and adjust up in amps if needed
Miller - Improving Your Skills - Stick
what rod, and amperage
well, all the rod, and amps have been covered,
but not setup. my suggestion. you want these angles
to be square to the 1/4in plate. then the angles would
have to be square on the ends. they need to be milled,
or cut on a saw that would do this. then clamp these to the
1/4in plate. then weld on one side, then on the other.
this will help prevent warpage. you most likely will get some
warpage, no matter how careful you are. if the angle is leaning
to far one way, run a bead on the opposite side, and this will