Thread: Syncrowave 250DX cooler circuit blues

Originally Posted by Michael Moore

Newman109 , thanks for the extra details on the pump/motor. I think in the earlier discussions I never got the "look for a series 1 pump" info and no one had a good number for the PSI/volume needed so I couldn't sort out which pumps were (or were not) suitable.

I'll have to start watching eBay. Having a quiet (or just quieter) pump would be very nice!

cheers,
Michael

You're very welcome. This is one area that required a lot of research on my part a few years ago. I had an old surplus pump and motor when I first built my cooler tank. It worked for a few years and then started to leak and there were no parts available. I then looked into pumps and I soon found out that Procon was the best bet. Don't be frightened by the list prices, either. The pumps are found on ebay all of the time at low prices. I remembered that I had bought two extras on eBay several years ago. I paid about $40 for the pair here that I kept for spares.

I used the same model # 11A100F11AA on my cooler and it gives about 55 psi. I don't even recall adjusting it. These can be set up to 250 psi with higher pressure but the lowest setting will work with a TIG torch. I recall doing a test once on my return flow in to a bucket and I'm getting a little more than a gallon per minute. It must work because I've been using the same torch for the last 10 years. I have a 10 gallon tank with about 5 gallons of fluid in it. I have about two gallons of Miller coolent with distilled water but I've run Dex Cool and tap water. Wars have been fought on the internet about the correct fluid to use but I can't tell the difference. LOL.

You can see the shape of the drive shaft in the pictures. The motors have the matching slot and the clamps are like a muffler clamp to hold the pump on. These pumps are very quiet. I'm guessing that you could fool your welder circuit somehow and then run a different pump. The SW 200 doesn't have that circuitry, at least mine doesn't.

I Hope this helps.

(EDIT I found this link http://www.pacificro.com/Procon07.htm





Hope this helps.

Good thread! I have a different pump, closed it all up for now with the switch jumpered.

I did let a lot of coolant flow thru the torch, had the red (hot/return) end flowing into the filler neck of the reservoir, seems like a reasonably strong stream to me given the size of the hoses.

Next I used air to blow thru the red/return port which then goes thru the cooler and into the reservoir. Had mist coming out the overflow neck LOL. Blew air both ways thru the torch, plugged all back in and still no joy.

Frustrated I jumpered the switch, will have to check out those check valve bodies, it did occur to me they could present a restriction. I have done some welding without detectable problems so far, just needed to move on to other projects and had blue sheetmetal all over the bench.

Also a little disappointed that the seal washer inside the filler cap cracked into a bunch of pieces, those would definitely cause problems...I think I got them all before any fell into the tank.

Yesterday I finished switching the 40+ year old pump and motor on my coolant tank over to one of those Procon pump/motor combos. I included a small needle valve to act as a waste gate in case I couldn't get the pump relief set low enough, but it isn't going to be needed as with the pump relief backed out as far as seemed safe and the needle valve closed the gauge is showing 45PSI and there's a nice stream of water coming out of the return line.

The new pump is significantly quieter. It isn't silent, but I don't feel the need to put on hearing defenders when it is running.

The combined pump/motor makes for a very simple install as there are no pump mounts to be dealt with.

Thanks again to Newman109 for providing all the information I needed to source the pump and motor.

cheers,
Michael

Originally Posted by Michael Moore

Yesterday I finished switching the 40+ year old pump and motor on my coolant tank over to one of those Procon pump/motor combos. I included a small needle valve to act as a waste gate in case I couldn't get the pump relief set low enough, but it isn't going to be needed as with the pump relief backed out as far as seemed safe and the needle valve closed the gauge is showing 45PSI and there's a nice stream of water coming out of the return line.

The new pump is significantly quieter. It isn't silent, but I don't feel the need to put on hearing defenders when it is running.

The combined pump/motor makes for a very simple install as there are no pump mounts to be dealt with.

Thanks again to Newman109 for providing all the information I needed to source the pump and motor.

cheers,
Michael

Aww, shucks......warn't nuthin. LOL. You'll like the Procon setup. As I may have mentioned, I have two coolers. One is as home built cooler with no radiator. It holds 15 gallons but I only fll it about halway. It's very quiet. The other one is a Bernard which does have a radiator. It was terribly noisy due to the fan. I changed the motor to a single shaft type and installed an eletric fan that runs all of the time. It's rather quiet now. Neither one overheats. I run them alternatively just for the heck of it.

Glad you got it fixed.

Hello every one, I have a 2006 Miller Syncrowave 250DX and the pump is dying. Getting the low flow code constantly.
I think its the pump as it has been whining like a banshee for the last few months and the only other times this has happened it was the power cord in my torch needing replaced. I replaced the power cord and that did not improve performance at all.
Hoping I can find a pump somewhere and replace it myself.
Here is a pic, I can take more later on.
Is there a list of compatable pumps somewhere?


This is my first post on here, a little history on myself.
I started welding back in the shipyards when the Valdeez was parked in Naasco ship yards and have since been in sheet metal shops, machine shops and fabrication shops making everything from furniture for the Navy, hot rod parts, race suspension and machine gun parts. I now have my own business building off road accessories for Nissans and soon to come, Toyotas and Mitsubishis.

Found a replacement pump from a welder repair specialist, cost me $300. Could not wait around to find a good deal or at least a cheap alternative.
There are some pit falls that can make swapping the pump a time consuming and redundant task. I will upload some pics and point out my issues tomorrow.