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Boyar Shultz 6x12 Grinder, how to remove pinion shaft?

BadDog

Stainless
Joined
Mar 27, 2006
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I'm almost done with my surface grinder "kit". Only one significant job remains, removing the table traverse (left right) pinion shaft, located on the left side of the saddle. This is an older “Deluxe” rather than a “Challenger”, so the manual available here and elsewhere is of little use.

As far as I can tell, there are no remaining grub screws. There is a threaded hole top front and bottom rear that appear to have brass at the bottom? Maybe that’s bronze bushing down there? Or the holes may have brass plugs? No idea, but there is no screw in them. I might could figure out what they are if I could take it apart.

The front “bearing” appears to be a shielded roller of some sort, but seems to work fine with no slop. The rear, which seems to be a bronze bearing is worn, giving some 15-20 thou or more slop. There is no visible aid to removing either, but the front bore is considerably larger and it appears the shat must come out the front. The Challenger diagrams indicate other internal bearings, but some stuff is obviously different, no idea how similar or different they may be, but even the Challenger manual seems to offer no help on disassembly.

The shaft pulls toward the operator to disengage the pinion from the rack and allow you to index the graduated handle (no slip ring) to a convenient spot. An internal spring holds the pinion into the rack normally. This spring bears on a collar that is held in place with a roll pin, and I think the shaft itself might come on through if I could only remove that roll pin. There is an access port with a large slotted screw/plug that allows me to see it from the side, but the bore itself has no provision/clearance for diving the pin out. The collar clears the bore by only about 0.090 and driving it at all off center results in the pin dragging around the bore as you try to turn it. I was told by someone on another board that you drive that pin back, rotate the extended side to the front, and then pull out with needle nose, but that seems impossible on mine.

Anyone got any thoughts or experience with this part of the grinder? I know it’s a long shot, but I’m stumped. Other than just “beat the f@#$ out of it and drive it out whether it likes it or not”, I’m out of ideas...
 
I thought about starting my own new thread this morning, but found this one as I did an initial search. I'll resurrect it and add to it instead...it might provide additional info for someone else in the future.

I am having the same problem as BadDog did some years ago. I have an old Boyar Schultz 612 SG and I'm trying to remove the gear from the traverse feed shaft. My initial goal was to replace the gear & rack to improve the traverse feed. However, the tapered pin is being stubborn and hasn't yet budged, so I began looking at the entire shaft to see if it could be removed and the tapered pin "motivated" while on the bench. (I'd really hate to get aggressive with a hammer & punch while the shaft is in the assembly. It seems like damage might be done to other parts at the same time.)

While I'm at it, it might be nice to replace the bronze bushing in that assembly. Just like BadDog, there is considerable play in mine.

The manual I found online is unclear and the drawing quite fuzzy, so I'm not exactly sure what is holding the shaft in place. Anyone have any experience that they might be willing to share on either removing the tapered pin or the entire shaft???

Thank you much.
 
Hello, it turns out I have this exact problem as well. B&S 612, manual(non-hydrolic) and not the challenger model. Difference is that the actual shaft of mine seems fine, the sleeve with the spring on it is bent. The bushings seem fine no slop that I can see, but there may be.

Could these bushings be pressed out from the closed side and then straightened to be pressed back in place?

I'd hate to go beating the dogsnot out of it because it's housed in a casting that would break- then I'm really in trouble.

Thanks for your thoughts!

A
 
Found this thread, and others, while trying to figure out how to disassemble my BS612 table traverse pinion. It took awhile but I finally got everything apart and thought that I'd post a few pictures of the exploded parts and the custom "tools" that were necessary to complete the job.

As far as my procedure:
Remove all set screws.
Hammer/press out pinion shaft (away from operator).
Pull torque tube (toward operator) and clamp.
Remove needle rollers that are now exposed.
Modify a washer to just fit into the empty bearing race.
Unclamp the torque tube and use it to hammer/press against the washer to remove the bearing race (away from operator).
Pull torque tube (towards operator) and clamp.
Turn a piece of 3/4" alum to fit the id of the torque tube.
Hammer/press out all remaining parts (towards operator)


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