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Slitting saw mounted in collet chuck ?

T

topari

Aluminum
Joined
May 12, 2006
Location
Australia, Melbourne
Is it a good idea to have a slitting saw arbor made to suit a collect chuck ? This should provide the advantage of not having to remove the collect chuck to install the slitting arbor. What do you think ?

Thanks,
Thomas.
 
personally i like to hold slitting saws in a rigid tool holder the size is up to you and may vary due to the saw dia. and the job.

if the saws have a keyway machine the holder for the proper size key and break the corner so there is no interference from the saw...jim
 
In my opinion it's not a good idea. Like Jim I prefer holding saws in a rigid arbor made for that purpose.

I know it's a pain to change arbors/holders but I feel safer knowing that thing is as secure as I can make it.

TS
 
Thanks, my mill/drill has an MT4 spindle taper. Looks like I will have to make an adaptor. I do have reducing sleeves mt4 to mt3 mt4 to mt2. Are reducing sleeves okay for this application ?
 
Just make sure it's secure and running true before you engage material.

I work with carbide slitting saws some trimming titanium sheetmetal, and I've found that any wobble, or looseness will cause them to fail.
 
I bought one of these cheap arbors (R8 shank) a few months ago, and it looked very nice. But when I tried to use it last night I found that it had significant runnout, so much that only two or three teeth were doing all the cutting. It's trash; I expect to spend $30US or probably more on the next one. If I can find a reputable brand.

Brad
 
I never had any luck with those cheap holders, I used to make my own mostly out of alum. I used the head of a cap screw in the slot for the key & drill a hole in the cap where the cap screw was.
These holders were quick to make & you can make them with the OD larger or smaller depending if you need a lot of blade depth or if you neede more support just make the dia larger giving you a lot of support to the blade.
Jackmo
 
I'm sure it matters somewhat how large of a dia saw and how thin you are using, I have run lots and lots of 2-3 inch saws .06 wide on home made arbors with a .750 strtaight shank held in an ER collet. I typically used the woodruff style cutters when I could because they were cheaper overall, then they went into a rigid .500 straight shank endmill holder. I used to run quite a few fairly small parts that could be cutoff in the mill with a 1.5" dia wooddruff slitter 1/16 wide...makes nice parts and can make a 2 op job a 1 op job.

Bill
 
I don't know about your machine, but a lot of mill-drills won't run slow enough to use a slitting saw properly. I forget the typical cutting speeds, but they are very slow compared to those for milling. Some machines can be modified to run slower by adding a pulley and belt, but that's a bigger project than making an arbor. - John
 
Thomas.

Yep, it is done all the time. One weakness that is also an advantage. If the cutter runs into a snag it can spin in the collet :confused: . Not a good thing but it has saved the cutter quite a number of times for me.

There is also a chance the cutter could shift up or down while milling without knowing. Tool holders can help with the cutter shifing, that has already been emphasized. A while back I had a job that used a slitting saw where if the blade shifted the part would have been scrap. For this job I made a one piece slitting saw arbor with R8 shank. Worked out great.

When making slitting saw arbors be sure to use a soft key like CRS or brass as a shear pin. Learned that one the hard sway. ;)
Jim
 
I use a beefy arbor that I run in the chuck on my horizontal mill, er, lathe. I don't use a key.

man1.jpg
 
There is also a chance the cutter could shift up or down while milling without knowing. Tool holders can help with the cutter shifing, that has already been emphasized. A while back I had a job that used a slitting saw where if the blade shifted the part would have been scrap. For this job I made a one piece slitting saw arbor with R8 shank. Worked out great.
Click to expand...
I used a TTS blank Tormach part no. 30475 to make a slitting saw arbor. http://tormach.com/Product_TTS.html
The dual contact TTS blank fits in a 3/4" R8 collet but will not shift in axial position.

Here are some photos of the TTS slitting saw arbor:
http://tinyurl.com/27ydz9
http://tinyurl.com/yo46no

[ 06-09-2007, 09:16 PM: Message edited by: Winfield ]
 
When I got my BP, I bought an R8 'fits-all' type holder, totally rubbish, had runout both radially and axially, would have been better using a hacksaw!

I'll make one myself to fit a 3/4" R8 collet, hopefully at that diameter it will grip nicely

Dave
 
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