blackdoggy
Aluminum
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2007
- Location
- Chatham Va.
I am trying to find a good quality digital caliper thats good down to .001 I am not quite sure where to find a good one for under $80 so any suggestions?
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Discount digital calipers?
- Thread starter blackdoggy
- Start date
- Replies 29
- Views 6,173
Jerry Leskovec
Aluminum
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2007
- Location
- New Philadelphia ,Ohio
digital calipers
I have had great luck on E-Bay got a really nice ( almost as new ) Brown and sharp and a Mitatyo set for 1/2 of what they usually go for .
You might try that .
JerryLeskovec
I have had great luck on E-Bay got a really nice ( almost as new ) Brown and sharp and a Mitatyo set for 1/2 of what they usually go for .
You might try that .
JerryLeskovec
huntinguy
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2006
- Location
- Washington
IMO, you are asking the wrong qestion.
I don't think it is reasonable to try using calipers when measuring down to .001. There are just too many variables, parallelism, measuring pressure, adjustment of the alignment screws (or what ever they are really called), I would suggest a set of micrometers.
But, since you fielded the question: I have a set of Peacock - wouldn't trust with in .003, A set of Brown and Sharp - Maybe, and that is a big maybe, to around .002, these are both dial. A set of Mitutoyo I don't trust below .003 (and I would double check that), A 4 inch set from HF that seems to be close to .001, these are both digital. The HF were $15.00
I use a set of Starrett waterproof 8 inch - They seem to be able to get inside .002 (they are new to the shop and I have not used them much, and not even close to the $80.00 mark). There is also a set of Brown and Sharp that are some kind of composite material, they seem ok but are jumpy (yes they are digital and jumpy)
I don't think it is reasonable to try using calipers when measuring down to .001. There are just too many variables, parallelism, measuring pressure, adjustment of the alignment screws (or what ever they are really called), I would suggest a set of micrometers.
But, since you fielded the question: I have a set of Peacock - wouldn't trust with in .003, A set of Brown and Sharp - Maybe, and that is a big maybe, to around .002, these are both dial. A set of Mitutoyo I don't trust below .003 (and I would double check that), A 4 inch set from HF that seems to be close to .001, these are both digital. The HF were $15.00
I use a set of Starrett waterproof 8 inch - They seem to be able to get inside .002 (they are new to the shop and I have not used them much, and not even close to the $80.00 mark). There is also a set of Brown and Sharp that are some kind of composite material, they seem ok but are jumpy (yes they are digital and jumpy)
tilk
Plastic
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2007
- Location
- Green Bay, WI
This might sound crazy, but the digital calipers from Harbor freight are pretty good. I don't trust mine below .003, but for $40 for a 12 inch, what do you exect
blackdoggy
Aluminum
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2007
- Location
- Chatham Va.
Very interesting and I though all of hf's stuff was total crap well you folks proved that wrong lol. Well looks like I will be going after one once I get the work for it.
You can get a Fowler from Production Tool for $25.
I bought a Fowler 6" digital caliper for $25 on sale. They're just about the same thing (except blue plastic and say Fowler on them) as the harbor freight ones, but slightly better fit and finish. I like it, seems to have good repeatability down to .001" as long as you get the thing square on the part. I use it most of the time, it's my main measurement device. I've used both the HF, and the Fowler, and for $15, it's hard to beat the HF calipers. They do OK down to .001 too, but they need to have those adjustment screws adjusted so there's no slop. It's also a matter of getting it square on the work. My HF 6" caliper died from a drop on the concrete. No caliper will be accurate without it being square on the work, no matter how much costs. I also have a 4" digital I bought from Kitts gets into tight places a little easier than the 6". It's as good as the HF calipers, if not better. I'd like to get a 12" digital from HF next time they go on sale.
I bought a Fowler 6" digital caliper for $25 on sale. They're just about the same thing (except blue plastic and say Fowler on them) as the harbor freight ones, but slightly better fit and finish. I like it, seems to have good repeatability down to .001" as long as you get the thing square on the part. I use it most of the time, it's my main measurement device. I've used both the HF, and the Fowler, and for $15, it's hard to beat the HF calipers. They do OK down to .001 too, but they need to have those adjustment screws adjusted so there's no slop. It's also a matter of getting it square on the work. My HF 6" caliper died from a drop on the concrete. No caliper will be accurate without it being square on the work, no matter how much costs. I also have a 4" digital I bought from Kitts gets into tight places a little easier than the 6". It's as good as the HF calipers, if not better. I'd like to get a 12" digital from HF next time they go on sale.
Bobw
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2005
- Location
- Hatch, NM Chile capital of the WORLD
I have a pair of $16 8 inchers and $30 12 inchers off of e-bay, both used quite a bit, and sadly, they are both more accurate and reliable than my 18 month old B&S dial calipers.
If you want to spend $80, buy a cheapie digital caliper for $20 and a $60 set of gage blocks. If you need to hit 3.675" make up a stack, zero on the stack, and you are done.
By doing that you can get some pretty good accuracy, push on the jaws, not the thumbwheel, zero it out and try to stay a couple of thou under your tolerance, just in case. I've had some good luck with this even using the calipers that were relegated to the bandsaw.
Trying to get .001 accuracy out of a caliper, I wouldn't trust it, when I started I would have, but they are just not that accurate, they don't call them "guessing sticks" for nothing.
If you want to spend $80, buy a cheapie digital caliper for $20 and a $60 set of gage blocks. If you need to hit 3.675" make up a stack, zero on the stack, and you are done.
By doing that you can get some pretty good accuracy, push on the jaws, not the thumbwheel, zero it out and try to stay a couple of thou under your tolerance, just in case. I've had some good luck with this even using the calipers that were relegated to the bandsaw.
Trying to get .001 accuracy out of a caliper, I wouldn't trust it, when I started I would have, but they are just not that accurate, they don't call them "guessing sticks" for nothing.
It's all in the technique.
Getting decent accuracy isn't that hard out of a digital caliper. The most difficult thing is getting it square on the work. Then you MUST get all the slop out of those adjustment screws, or it will be off a couple thou. Next is making sure there's no gunk on the jaws when you zero it. You'd be suprised how many times there will be something on there, like a fine hair, or even dust! Wipe the jaws with your finger, and close it again. When you wipe the jaws zero it, and don't wind up with a - sign in front of the zeros the next time you close it, you've got it zero-ed properly. It should keep it's zero, check it a couple more times. Once you get i t zero-ed, DON'T hit that button again while working. You SHOULD be able to keep .001 accuracy with a 6 incher, dunno about the bigger ones. Making sure there's nothing on the jaws, and the work is another thing when you measure. Granted, micrometers are easier to repeat and keep .001 accuracy with, but it's totally with a decent digital caliper. When it really matters I get out a mic, but for 99% of what I do, I don't need .001 accuracy, but I shoot for it anyways. One thing I can't stand is an inaccurate measurement tool. There's no point in owning something that can't measure accurately, no matter how cheap it is.
Getting decent accuracy isn't that hard out of a digital caliper. The most difficult thing is getting it square on the work. Then you MUST get all the slop out of those adjustment screws, or it will be off a couple thou. Next is making sure there's no gunk on the jaws when you zero it. You'd be suprised how many times there will be something on there, like a fine hair, or even dust! Wipe the jaws with your finger, and close it again. When you wipe the jaws zero it, and don't wind up with a - sign in front of the zeros the next time you close it, you've got it zero-ed properly. It should keep it's zero, check it a couple more times. Once you get i t zero-ed, DON'T hit that button again while working. You SHOULD be able to keep .001 accuracy with a 6 incher, dunno about the bigger ones. Making sure there's nothing on the jaws, and the work is another thing when you measure. Granted, micrometers are easier to repeat and keep .001 accuracy with, but it's totally with a decent digital caliper. When it really matters I get out a mic, but for 99% of what I do, I don't need .001 accuracy, but I shoot for it anyways. One thing I can't stand is an inaccurate measurement tool. There's no point in owning something that can't measure accurately, no matter how cheap it is.
MrFluffy
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2006
- Location
- Nomadic in Europe
I have had a few cheap and nasty digital calipers, because I was using them in a enviroment where tolerance didn't really matter (nearest 1/4") and they tended to grow legs. There, they were perfect for the role.
Once that requirement ended and I took them back to the shop I quickly found out that they go mad when they came near coolant and never recover and weren't repeating very well either. There was always a section on the travel where the caliper stopped working and reset to zero or some insane impossible reading. Of the four I brought back, the longest lived one was 3 weeks...
I bought a single mitatoyo to replace them and its still going strong nearly a year later. Depending on how you use them, might be worth investing more up front and having a bit longer life...
Ive been put off ebay linear scales for my dro for life too...
Once that requirement ended and I took them back to the shop I quickly found out that they go mad when they came near coolant and never recover and weren't repeating very well either. There was always a section on the travel where the caliper stopped working and reset to zero or some insane impossible reading. Of the four I brought back, the longest lived one was 3 weeks...
I bought a single mitatoyo to replace them and its still going strong nearly a year later. Depending on how you use them, might be worth investing more up front and having a bit longer life...
Ive been put off ebay linear scales for my dro for life too...
Blue Steel
Stainless
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2007
- Location
- Adelaide Australia
I have a Mitutoyo coolant proof digital Caliper. I would trust it to half a thou. The thing I don't trust about it is sometimes you are measuring when you will not be able to keep the caliper square etc so you can't get an accurate reading. The caliper itself I reckon has no troubles getting you to half a thou but often you have a funny angle and so on so it must be treated with care. I know there is stuff I measure that gives readings that vary by 10 thou or more because it is a tricky item. The Caliper itself thou I am sure is accurate.
Other ones well I have a cheapy that you would only trust to 5 thou. It is great for woodwork though.
Stephen
Other ones well I have a cheapy that you would only trust to 5 thou. It is great for woodwork though.
Stephen
Yeah, coolant makes a mess of any caliper that isn't sealed.
They just aren't designed to get coolant, or water inside them. Even after it dries, it shorts the guts because of the solids that remain after the liquid evaporated. You have to take the thing apart, and clean it with 99% isopropyl to get it to stop that. Then you wind up with the display not making good contact. They're a PITA to put back together if you take them apart that far. You can help that by sealing the front of the PCB off with some well placed RTV gasket silicone. In fact when I have to take the fowler apart, I plan on doing that. If you want a caliper that survives coolant, a cheapo chinese made deal isn't going to do it.
They just aren't designed to get coolant, or water inside them. Even after it dries, it shorts the guts because of the solids that remain after the liquid evaporated. You have to take the thing apart, and clean it with 99% isopropyl to get it to stop that. Then you wind up with the display not making good contact. They're a PITA to put back together if you take them apart that far. You can help that by sealing the front of the PCB off with some well placed RTV gasket silicone. In fact when I have to take the fowler apart, I plan on doing that. If you want a caliper that survives coolant, a cheapo chinese made deal isn't going to do it.
Greg White
Titanium
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
- Location
- Pinckney Mi.
Mahr Calipers
I have 2 Mahr 6", Model 16EX,new in box for sale here.
$60.
$5 shipping in the 48 states
I know shameless post could'nt resist.
GW
I have 2 Mahr 6", Model 16EX,new in box for sale here.
$60.
$5 shipping in the 48 states
I know shameless post could'nt resist.
GW
blackdoggy
Aluminum
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2007
- Location
- Chatham Va.
Well when the time comes I am gonna get my self a solar Mitutoyo coolant proof digital caliper. 
Thanks fellas
Thanks fellas Blue Steel
Stainless
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2007
- Location
- Adelaide Australia
You will be very happy with anything Mitutoyo make. It is all quality gear. Personally it is all I have apart from a cheapy dial caliper I picked on ebay for woodwork.
Stephen
Stephen
tarawa
Aluminum
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2008
- Location
- Loxahatchee, Florida
I have a Mitutoyo and just about every size of the HF digitals. I must admit. They are hard on batteries and sometimes it is less expensive to get a new HF caliper than it is to replace the batteries! Not quite, but HF sure does sell the digitals cheap sometime.
flycutter13
Aluminum
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2006
- Location
- New Jersey
We use cheapo Chinese calipers from Travers, MSC or whatever. Occasioanlly they get dropped, so here in the screw machine shop it's not worth having really nice ones. But I use them everyday for measuring tolerances within +/- .005 and they do fine. Just make sure your reading is in the middle of your tolerance! But really though, micrometers make me feel good about what I'm doing, more confident you know. I did use a caliper once that was reading about .025 off and I never noticed. The gears inside were slipping or something and I measured a drill and used the wrong drill for a tapped hole. The next guy doing the tapping (AKA Dad) was certainly not thrilled!
CNCAddict
Aluminum
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2007
- Location
- Newport, NC
I've found the cheapest Chinese calipers measure just as accurately as any other brands. The difference is the update speed of the display, and the battery life. The chinese calipers don't update often...so if you're trying to "set" them to a certain size it takes longer 
Also, the chinese calipers never really turn off, so they ALWAYS suck juice no matter what. The name brands completely power down and must be re-zeroed when turned back on, but the batteries last FOREVER that way.
Also, most stuff from HF is crap. The two things that come to my mind that are good...are the digital calipers and some of their spray paint guns. Most other stuff I wouldn't touch with a 10ft anything.
Also, the chinese calipers never really turn off, so they ALWAYS suck juice no matter what. The name brands completely power down and must be re-zeroed when turned back on, but the batteries last FOREVER that way.Also, most stuff from HF is crap. The two things that come to my mind that are good...are the digital calipers and some of their spray paint guns. Most other stuff I wouldn't touch with a 10ft anything.
You can mod the chinese calipers for fast reading.
You take the lid for the SPC plug off, and solder a little tact pushbotton across two of the terminals. I forget which pins, but it's on the Shumatech website somewhere I'm pretty sure. I had my old chinese caliper modded for that, it was pretty cool! The numbers keep up as fast as you can move the thing!!! They're actually FASTER than other brand calipers with that mod. I'll try to post the link later.
You take the lid for the SPC plug off, and solder a little tact pushbotton across two of the terminals. I forget which pins, but it's on the Shumatech website somewhere I'm pretty sure. I had my old chinese caliper modded for that, it was pretty cool! The numbers keep up as fast as you can move the thing!!! They're actually FASTER than other brand calipers with that mod. I'll try to post the link later.
CNCAddict
Aluminum
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2007
- Location
- Newport, NC
I'd love to know how to increase the update speed on my cheapo calipers. I looked through Shumatech's webpage AND searched Google but came up short. Any help would be much appreciated
I found this on the Shumatech website.
Scroll down the page a little, there's a schematic. You'll like the fast reading mode, I'm gonna get another cheapo caliper and mod it. You actually don't need the resistors, it won't hurt it by just shorting the terminals. I just soldered in a little tact button froma VCR.
http://www.shumatech.com/support/chinese_scales.htm
Scroll down the page a little, there's a schematic. You'll like the fast reading mode, I'm gonna get another cheapo caliper and mod it. You actually don't need the resistors, it won't hurt it by just shorting the terminals. I just soldered in a little tact button froma VCR.
http://www.shumatech.com/support/chinese_scales.htm
