nutsrusted (Boy, what a handle!
), I hope you don't take offense. Sometimes us old farts are surprised that 'everybody doesn't know', what we learned many years ago. And, even new edgefinders don't come with instructions; I guess the manufacturer thinks, if you buy one, you know how to use it.
Ok, here's the training speil: mount your edgefinder in a collet in the spindle (NEVER in a drill chuck! ONLY drill bits are used in drill chucks!
). Turn on the spindle, in the 1000-1200 RPM range. Make sure the .200" dia. end is off center, if it's not wobbling, flick it with your finger. Now, slowly bring it up to the edge of the part that is against the back (fixed) jaw in the vise. As the end contacts the part, the wobbling will diminish.
Very slowly advance the table, until you can discern no wobble. Now, tap the 'Y' axis handle with your finger, until the edgefinder 'jumps'. Now, the OD of the edgefinder is at the very edge of your part. Retract the quill, 0 out your DRO 'Y' axis , and dial off 1/2 the dia. of the edgefinder (usually .100"). Repeat for the 'X' axis (usually done on the left side of the part, as you are facing the mill). Now, the far left corner of your part is your datum; all holes, slots, pockets, etc. will be accurately positioned, from that corner.
Using the centerfinding point involves a slightly different technique. Here's mine: Mount the point in a collet, keeping it as concentric with the edgefinder body as you can, by eye. Move your punch mark under the point, again, as close as you can by eye. Bring the quill down into the punch mark (spindle stopped!), then raise it about .010", so it's not bottomed in the dimple (if you can't 'feel' .010" with the quill handle, dial it off on the knee). Start the spindle, then slowly move the 'Y' axis, until you see the least wobble. Do the same with the 'X' axis. Repeat.
Hope this long-winded reply helps. (sometimes the 'instructor' in me comes out
)
RAS