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Hydraulic press, recommendations?

ztarum

Hot Rolled
Joined
Feb 22, 2003
Location
Mickleton, NJ USA
I'm getting tired of fighting bearings with a hammer and punch. Thinking of getting a hydraulic press. This won't see very much use, so I don't want to spend a fortune. I was eyeing the 15 ton Turn-Pro in the Enco catalog. Looks to be fairly full featured, and only costs about $900. The similar Dake is $2750.
Anyone have the Turn-Pro press?
 
From a hammer/punch combo, you need to progress first to a $99 Harbor Freight 12 ton press, and only then consider the $900 unit.



-James
 
If you are considering used presses, look for a K.R.Wilson that has the rack-and-pinion feature on the ram. They are far nicer and quicker to use than any others I have used and I would definitely prefer one over a new imported press.

The pinion is connected to handles on the side of the frame that allow manual (arbor press) operation to 3-tons. The handles slide off-center if you need additional leverage. If you need even more oomph, the first stroke of the pump handle applies hydraulic pressure.

My 25-ton required a little TLC, but it was well worth the effort. The 25-ton is nice because it is not too big, but if you have the room go for a bigger one. K.R.Wilson stopped making presses in 1988 (IIRC) but a company called Devin Manufacturing still supports them.

This thread has a picture of an older 25-ton that has the pump on the side (my pump is overhead and my entire press is a little smaller):
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=011991

-Chris
 
Or... You could just make your own. I made this C-frame press from salvage yard scraps. When I need to use it, I attach my 10-ton Porta-Power. I have 3/4" press plates I made from scraps too. I have a better picture(s) but this is the only one I could find right now. I'm building a bucket for a front-end loader (FEL).

KenbotaFEL04.jpg
 
Making one isn't an option for me. No torch, no welder, no truck to get the steel home, etc. My workshop is a residential garage, so space it at a premium.
 
ztarum, years ago I bought one of those chinese 20 ton press's from Harbor Freight for about $200 and it has worked out very well for me. I'm not too happy with chinese tools but sometimes the prices are too hard to resist.
Michael
 
If you want something to push, then buy one of those hydraulic units. If you want to disassemble things, get an arbor press.

My father taught me the difference. A hydraulic press has no 'feel' and parts get broken fast. With an arbor press you can apply a little push and get the job done. When we rebuilt water pumps with hydraulic presses, about a quarter of the castings got snapped. Arbor presses never ruined the castings. Just try and remove an axle bearing with a hydraulic press. Toss the bearing after it comes off with hydraulics. We have two hydraulic presses at work. I would not haul them away or give up the room outside my shop for either of them.

I have an old arbor press in my open sided shed. I keep that six foot monster there so anyone can use it. It amazes me that guys come by and use it when they have those nice new hydraulic units sitting at home. My big press will easily accept a truck axle and push off a 9000 series bearing with a gentle tug of the handle. My big press is a Greenerd and is serial number fifteen. It was sold to George Westinghouse; yeah him, the rich dead guy. After his ancestors tossed it, I bought it from a scrounger and saved it from the scrappers. I am constantly going home when the 100 ton Chinese wonder at work can not budge something. My immense ass can do more with my little sixty manual than our 100 ton hydraulic. Two months ago I had to remove a gear from a two inch diameter shaft. I took the gear and shafrt home and one of my bosses came along. I hung from the handle with my right hand and tapped on the gear with my brass hammer. Every tap brought the gear off by a sixteenth. My boss stood there with a slack jawed stare. He kept raving about how the 100ton press could not do the job with heat and beating. I gave him the 'it s the higher altitude and the fact that my immensely mean ass is laying on the pressure---boy'song. I also add a few things about the 'special' brass tools that I have at home. He asked how big the press was. I replied that it is a one and a half ton press. That made him do a double take. There is a big 60 cast in the frame and he said how did I come to call it a one and a half ton press. I told him that it weighed three thousand pounds and that was one and a half tons. After all the 100 ton press at work did not press the gear off, so there was no way that 60 meant tons of force. The part that really pissed him off was when I put the gear on the new shaft. I told him that I would put it on with my brass hammer,'from home'. I installed the shaft and then dumped three cans of freeze spray on it. That brought it down to minus sixty degrees. I had the gear sitting in the oven at about 450 degrees. With three taps the gear slid on. He inspected the job about an hour after I was done. I told him that they had to stop buying those inferior Chinese hammers and get some real tools. This had him getting red faced. Management exists for the amusement of the working classes.

You can find arbor presses in the scrap yards because most are overlooked. They are 'old fashioned'. You do not need a big one. Just look around and you will see something that is just right for you. My little buddy George (Prinkey) borrowed my 00 press to crack walnuts three years ago. I have not seen any walnuts, or my press, since then. I think it is time to pry his grubby little fingers from my little Atlas press. Thanks for the reminder.........
 
That's one of the nice things about the KRW presses. Plus, you can use the 3-ton sensitive arbor press to fix the hydraulic side of things, as I'm doing.

Although if you do get one of these things I'd try and get a newer one, like Chris's. The really old ones are a bit much if you don't need the size.
 
I would also recommend the KR Willson. There were made in Arcade NY, about 20 minute drive from me. I got my model 37 (25 ton) made in 1970 from where I work. At work we have about 6 of them. One time I was working on a 100 tonner from 1955. I had a question about the seal packing on the piston. I called KR Willson, and talked to KR's son about the press I needed info on. He knew exactly what I was talking about and told me the info I needed. Nice guy. Older ones are 5" bore, newer ones (like my 1970) are 4". The 5" 1955 I worked on was a leather L-shaped cup seal. The 1970 4" was a T-ring and anti-extrusion back up rings. An O-ring with back up rings would also work. Any hydraulic repair shop has parts. --Doozer in Buffalo
 
ztarum, why do you fight with a punch and hammer to install bearings or other interference fit parts to mount them on to a shaft. Go down to your local Wallmart a pick up a $25.00 to 30.00 hot plate. put a ring or disc with an O.D. of the inner ring approximately 1/2" thick on the hot plate and warm it up to 240 degrees F. Place the bearing on the ring for about 30 seconds and then turn it over for another 30 seconds. If you do not have a temperature probe, put a drop of water on the side face of the inner rin g and if it bubbles put the bearing on the shaft. The first try takes a little finnesse to be sure it is square to the shaft and it just falls on. Heating bearings and other parts is a common practice and used all over industry. No one in the spindle repair industry presses a bearing onto the shaft. If the bearing cocks during the pressing, you can tear up the shaft.

Ed
 
Yeah, I've used the heating approach. Sometimes is works like a charm. Sometimes it doesn't. The press would be handy for the times when the bearing goes on easy half way, then cools down and sticks. It would also be nice when taking things apart.
 
Mike W wrote:
I would like to see some more pictures of that Ken.
This is the only other picture I could find that showed the entire press. The top is made of 1/2x6" flats. The backbone is 1/4x5" square tube and the lower arms are made of 3x5x.220 C-channel. The angles on the bottom of the top arms are used to make a channel. There's a 3/4x6" plate that slides in this channel. The Porta-Power then attaches to this plate. This allows front to back movement.

This is a bench-top press but I haven't gotten a "round toit' to mount it. In this case, that was good because I wouldn't have had the room to form the bucket on the bench.

C-Press-01.jpg
 
Just bought a 100 Ton Press Master. Don't be fooled by the cheesy name, great machine made in Canada/US.
Very heavy duty machine, double acting cylinder and many options for side broach press as well. Adjustable Pressure reducing valve as well, which should be mandatory as far as I'm concerned. Check it out!
 








 
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