Need help in buying A GOOD SET OF DRILLS. I have found buying good old USA tooling to be the best for my applications. I now need a full set of drill bits and don't now a good American manufactor of them. I have tried to use the Harbor Frieght type of drill assortments without much success. I do strickly metal work and they just don't holdup. I know American bits will cost more, but you get what you pay for.
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Drill bits
- Thread starter gearhead
- Start date
- Replies 43
- Views 5,729
Buckshot
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2004
- Location
- Redlands, Ca
........I'm not a production shop so keep that in mind. Maybe 20 years ago I bought a set of Hansen x64ths for around the house and I still have them. Good bits.
Since getting into machining I bought a set of Chicago Latrobe letter and number bits (bright finish). And just recently a set of no name USA made screw machine number bits. I can't claim to do any hole making in wunderkinder alloys as it's mostly carbon steel and aluminum.
I don't use the same bit to drill umpity number of consecutive holes, but the common sizes have done their share. They all do a fine job and appear to cut a nice hole.
The main thing is, you can look at them and see the quality. I looked at a set of letter bit's recently that were made in India. Some of them may have drilled a hole, but there were some in there that would have been doubtfull.
Growing up I used to shop for the cheapest tires I could find. I don't do that anymore, and with tools I now make a real effort to buy the best tool I can afford. For drill bits I look to buy Chicago Latrobe, Cleveland Twist or Guhring.
Rick
Since getting into machining I bought a set of Chicago Latrobe letter and number bits (bright finish). And just recently a set of no name USA made screw machine number bits. I can't claim to do any hole making in wunderkinder alloys as it's mostly carbon steel and aluminum.
I don't use the same bit to drill umpity number of consecutive holes, but the common sizes have done their share. They all do a fine job and appear to cut a nice hole.
The main thing is, you can look at them and see the quality. I looked at a set of letter bit's recently that were made in India. Some of them may have drilled a hole, but there were some in there that would have been doubtfull.
Growing up I used to shop for the cheapest tires I could find. I don't do that anymore, and with tools I now make a real effort to buy the best tool I can afford. For drill bits I look to buy Chicago Latrobe, Cleveland Twist or Guhring.
Rick
matt_isserstedt
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2003
- Location
- suburbs of Ann Arbor, MI, USA
Triumph would be another good brand I would recommend.
-Matt
-Matt
precisionworks
Diamond
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2005
- Location
- Benton, IL USA
Precision Twist is a top USA manufacturer. I buy mine from Wholesale Tool. Nice people, fast shipping.
http://www.wttool.com/p/0409-6005?utm_id=24
I've never ordered from Tyler Tool but their price is lower
http://store.yahoo.com/tylertool/prectwisbran.html
Barry Milton
http://www.wttool.com/p/0409-6005?utm_id=24
I've never ordered from Tyler Tool but their price is lower
http://store.yahoo.com/tylertool/prectwisbran.html
Barry Milton
egpace
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2004
- Location
- Westwood, NJ
gearhead,
I like Cleveland, but just got sticker shock MSC wants 454.72 for a 3 in 1 set. yow!
Ed
I like Cleveland, but just got sticker shock MSC wants 454.72 for a 3 in 1 set. yow!
Ed
EPAIII
Diamond
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2003
- Location
- Beaumont, TX, USA
I have purchased drills from many sources. If you stick to made in USA you will probably be OK. I made the mistake of buying a set of import drills from Enco and had to return them. I swapped for their US made set at a higher price and was completely satisfied. Many others will be essentially the same quality: KBC Tools, McMaster-Carr, AirGas, etc.
Just stay away from the imports. They can be very poor quality.
And learn to resharpen them. Any drill will become dull with use. Resharpening will save you $s.
Paul A.
Just stay away from the imports. They can be very poor quality.
And learn to resharpen them. Any drill will become dull with use. Resharpening will save you $s.
Paul A.
L Webb
Titanium
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2001
- Location
- Fullerton, CA USA
I use quite a few Greenfield jobber and screw drills for jobs. They stand up quite well with proper lubrication. It is nothing to get a couple thousand holes out of one drill doing 1/4" A36 steel.
The quickest way to kill a drill is to not use oil or coolant of some type. The brand of drill doesn't matter much if you run it dry.
We also just ran a countersinking job where we did 17,000 holes in 1/4" M1044 plow steel. Using a KoolMist unit we only used one cutting tool for the entire job. It was just starting to dull at the end of the job. It is a custom ground piloted cutter made from a reamer blank. The mister and synthetic coolant does a good job of making the tool last.
Les
The quickest way to kill a drill is to not use oil or coolant of some type. The brand of drill doesn't matter much if you run it dry.
We also just ran a countersinking job where we did 17,000 holes in 1/4" M1044 plow steel. Using a KoolMist unit we only used one cutting tool for the entire job. It was just starting to dull at the end of the job. It is a custom ground piloted cutter made from a reamer blank. The mister and synthetic coolant does a good job of making the tool last.
Les
rob daniel
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2005
- Location
- Southern California
Get on the MSC mailing list. I buy screw machine drills on sale from them and over time they always have fractional, letter and number size sets on sale. Frequently good brands like precision twist drill and cleveland. Get a Huot drill dispenser and stock up on the sizes you use the most. If you want really nice round holes with a nice finish, OSG Gold are unbeatable but very expensive.
Peter S
Diamond
- Joined
- May 6, 2002
- Location
- Auckland, New Zealand
Gearhead,
I don't know how bad the HF drills are, but assuming they are high speed steel, are you using cutting oil and the correct speeds?
What I mean is, the best drills won't last if you don't observe those rules.
I find many people don't like the mess of cutting oil, but the difference it makes to drill life is huge. I never drill without it. I use the a Rocol product (I reckon it sharpens drills
), but there are plenty of others.
And speeds, generally go slower than you think...most machines have too many high speeds....depends on your drill press, but if you can get down to say 150 rpm for drills over 5/8", 400 for 1/2", 600 for 5/16", (these just guesstimates from memory) your drill life should be fine.
If the drill spins in the chuck or the belts slip, it usually means the drill is blunt.
And plenty of cutting oil!
Apologies if you are well up on this, but I have been using cheap Chinese drills at a friends place recently and find they seem just fine if you look after the speeds and cutting oil.
ps, not saying you shouldn't buy good drills, I would.
I don't know how bad the HF drills are, but assuming they are high speed steel, are you using cutting oil and the correct speeds?
What I mean is, the best drills won't last if you don't observe those rules.
I find many people don't like the mess of cutting oil, but the difference it makes to drill life is huge. I never drill without it. I use the a Rocol product (I reckon it sharpens drills
And speeds, generally go slower than you think...most machines have too many high speeds....depends on your drill press, but if you can get down to say 150 rpm for drills over 5/8", 400 for 1/2", 600 for 5/16", (these just guesstimates from memory) your drill life should be fine.
If the drill spins in the chuck or the belts slip, it usually means the drill is blunt.
And plenty of cutting oil!
Apologies if you are well up on this, but I have been using cheap Chinese drills at a friends place recently and find they seem just fine if you look after the speeds and cutting oil.
ps, not saying you shouldn't buy good drills, I would.
oregonclockmaker
Aluminum
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2004
- Location
- Willamette Valley, Oregon
While we're on the subject (and not to hijack the thread, but this is relevant): bright finish or oxide? Why would you pick one over the other?
-=[ grant ]=-
-=[ grant ]=-
S.Recker
Aluminum
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2004
- Location
- Dyersville, Iowa
Gearhead,
Norseman makes some of the best drills in the business, I would not hesitate to buy them at all.
Scott
Norseman makes some of the best drills in the business, I would not hesitate to buy them at all.
Scott
precisionworks
Diamond
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2005
- Location
- Benton, IL USA
oregonclockmaker,
Steam oxide is often applied to taps to retain a thin layer of cutting oil - it works really well. Not sure the black oxide coating on twist drills is steam oxide or simply "tool black" which is primarily applied for rust protection.
For making LOTS of holes, it's hard to beat cobalt. Higher initial cost, lower price per hole.
Steam oxide is often applied to taps to retain a thin layer of cutting oil - it works really well. Not sure the black oxide coating on twist drills is steam oxide or simply "tool black" which is primarily applied for rust protection.
For making LOTS of holes, it's hard to beat cobalt. Higher initial cost, lower price per hole.
metlmunchr
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2004
- Location
- Asheville NC USA
Oxide for steel
Bright for non-ferrous....particularly aluminum. If you use the black drills on aluminum you'll see the aluminum transfer onto the drill surface, giving it a somewhat silvery appearance. At this point, the chips are sliding up the flutes aluminum on aluminum. Bright drills with polished flutes work much better for this application.
Bright for non-ferrous....particularly aluminum. If you use the black drills on aluminum you'll see the aluminum transfer onto the drill surface, giving it a somewhat silvery appearance. At this point, the chips are sliding up the flutes aluminum on aluminum. Bright drills with polished flutes work much better for this application.
Bruce Griffing
Titanium
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2003
- Location
- Temple, Texas
I must be the odd man out. I bought a set of 115 drills many years ago. They were Taiwanese M2 HSS. I think I paid $29 for the set. It has number drills, letter drills and fractional drills. I have sharpened a few and replaced those that I lost, but otherwise the set is intact. I don't do production work, but many of those drills have made more than a thousand holes each. I must have been lucky.
I seem also to be ood man out on the Drill Doctor. My 750 works well for me. Both the drill set and the DD will probably outlast me.
I seem also to be ood man out on the Drill Doctor. My 750 works well for me. Both the drill set and the DD will probably outlast me.
precisionworks
Diamond
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2005
- Location
- Benton, IL USA
Bruce,
The Darex Drill Doctor 750 is a good machine. Nothing else even comes close for the same price.
I recently upgraded to the Darex V290. It is the industrial version of the DD750. Fast & sweet, but pricey. Ironic, my South Bend cost the same money as the V290...........
Barry Milton
The Darex Drill Doctor 750 is a good machine. Nothing else even comes close for the same price.
I recently upgraded to the Darex V290. It is the industrial version of the DD750. Fast & sweet, but pricey. Ironic, my South Bend cost the same money as the V290...........
Barry Milton
willbird
Banned
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2005
Way back in my tool and cutter grinding days the shop owner told me a GOOD hss drill wouldnt take a nice black job, maybe I have been prejudiced since then but the ones that have a nice black to them never seem quite as good.
Bill
Bill
willbird
Banned
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2005
I have used the TDR brand of drill grinder sold by MSC among others, it grinds the drill on the inside of a cup wheel, they are the best GP drill grinder I have ever used, you can drill a .310 hole with a .310 drill.
pricey at over 1k, but there is no substitute IMHO
Bill
pricey at over 1k, but there is no substitute IMHO
Bill
