As Mark said - the Wickmans are the quick setup machines as they have adjustable strokes on each position - or something like that. ??? I don't know much aboot them. I have looked at the newer ones as they supposedly are able to spindle stop ON THE FLAT of hex bar somehow. It is a sorta expensive attachment - but one for an Acme 10 yrs ago through Acme was $70 or $80K, but no-one there had ever seen one.
We did our cross werk on the flats in a transfer machine 2nd op.
Wickmans are known for sloppy pins and pin holes as they age from what I have heard. ???
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Personally I run "Master" collets in anything of any size. The 2" machine has such fine and large threads that my main man yrs ago spent one full 10 hr day just changing collets and pushers. If they fight you - it will take a long time as you can't reach around the housing on that large'a machine. Masters will pay fer themselves quickly as you only need the pads after that - and pads for S20 are ??? $60/each?
Also - I run almost strictly Excel (sp?) master pushers too. Same concept - but a WAY better pusher than cage IMO. Just don't think your pullin' the bar out backwards w/o an act of Congress!
The 9/16" / 1" machine (same machine almost) you can change collets and pushers pretty quickly and they are cheap/used - so no point running masters down there...
On my 2" I finger it costs $600 for a new set (6 banger) of collet pads/pusher pads for each new size. I doo NOT recommend buying used pusher pads or even pushers if possible. Those are wear items.
Git a subscription to
Automatic Machining Magazine and maybe
The Graff Monthly and you will git all the info for used equip/tooling distributors you could want. ESPECIALLY the July issue of Automatic Machining.
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As per cutting air?
Each slide has it's own cam to set the stroke for that toolslide. (Unless you alter the timing of the machine for reasons that I'm not gunna git into here) ...all slides start the cut and finish the cut cycle at the same time. So you need a cam that is AT LEAST the length needed - but longer will be fine too. You would just cut air for a while before you hit metal. If your cammed "long" then you would just have some wasted cycle time otherwise you would overfeed your tools...
The best way to learn it - is to doo what I did...
When I bought a 2G Brownie - I brought it home - threw spark to it - and eventually found the feed lever and engaged it - and just watched it for a while 'till I had it fingered out.
I did the same on my first Acme.
Just take time to "think" aboot how it werks. I spent yrs dreaming up really wild setups for them - for jobs that never came through my door. Altered timing, dead spindles, add-on componants - just kewl stuff. The everyday stuff gets boring after while eh? (and more competative too...)
My first Acme setup was on a four banger that had three, (3), more than two - less than four, different threads on it! 1/4 pipe OD, 1/2-16 Acme OD, and .210-36 (?) valve core threads and seat ID. That was a VERY busy setup! (Although the tooling for the Acme didn't werk at first no-matter what I did - chenged type of tool and ran fine after that.) I had another part aboot ten yrs ago that I think I had 11 tools in the cut at once and another 3 (?) roll supports yet. Very deep drill ratio too. Job ran SUPER! Previous supplier had increadible runout troubles and even shipped parts with holes sticking out the sides on occasion.
Yeah - I think their impressive machines that only recently have changed from their WWII designs and even those aint really any more productive on the same parts. They are just better suited for todays materials and complex part geometries. (CNC type Index, DMG, Shutte' ...) Todays Wickmans and Euroturns aint really that much diff than the old ones. Just a few refinements like I said aboot the one attachment and they are faster. (Read lighter and won't last side by side to an 1950 Acme in the long run.)
Things to look for in purchasing an Acme:
1) First and by far the most important is end slide slop. The main toolslide runs back and forth on a "stem" and the bushings in the endslide wear. Put an indicator on it and a prybar to lift the endslide and see how bad. A few thousandths aint no biggy - but I have seen them come in here at .030 before - and that will creat LOTS of ghosts if you don't know it's like that!
2) Carrier slop. You can fit feeler guages between the top of the carrier and the casting. The carrier is the part that has the spindles in it and revolves 1/6 (1/8?) turn each cycle. I have a 1935 2-1/4 R4 that has been rebuilt and not ran all that much since and I cannot get ANY gauge in there at all! .004-.005 is considered tight on a 1-5/8-2" machine. You can werk around a sloppy carrier tho. Just don't put too big'a form tool in 1st position, or at least not a rough form in first with finish form in 2nd.
I've picked up the carrier on 1-1/4" dooing that! LOL!
I like'm. Just kant make a living on'm anymore. I am down to two 2"-6's inline anymore. I have 6 in cold storage that I hope to retrieve one day soon. Still - I may go see what I can pick up an 8 banger for next month - and maybe see what the Index's bring.
The others can go on aboot the singles...
Think Snow Eh!
Ox