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Van Norman 22-l Milling machine

Ragnik

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Location
PA
Hi folks,

I recently got to look over a van norman milling machine model 22-L. Just curious about these machines if they are good bad or indiffernt. This particular machine was in ok shape not much wear and most of it was tight with little to no slop in the wheels. It appears that it is both a vertical or horizontal machine depending on how you tip the head. It did seem to take an odd collet it for sure wasnt r8. This one appeared to have automatic feeds on it but I wont swear to that. Also it was set up with flood coolant and a pump. I thought i was a neat machine and I may be able to get my hands on it in the future. So any thoughts on these machines?

Ross
 
Ross,
A 22L can move a lot of metal! We had many of these and #12's at the 1st shop I worked in. It has power feed in all three axis. The VN50 collet is what Hardinge calls a 50V. Van Norman also made several attachments that mounted on the spindle to do additional operations such as slotting. Definitely visit the website Steve posted.

I still have a parts list for a 22L & 22M. If you get the machine & want a copy, drop me a line.
Bob
 
Van Normans ain't all they're cracked up to be. I own a #6. My big complaints:

No quill...gotta drill with the knee

Restricted work area...there's a huge gearbox just to the right of the spindle when you're in vertical mode

Miserable axis locks...took me forever to get mine dialed in by fiddling with the gibs

And, of course, oddball tooling.

If I had the chance, I'd swap for an old Index any day.

OMcG
 
Thanks for the links and the info guys. just the kinda thoughts I was looking for. Both good and bad. For me just being a hobby guy it is plenty of machine for the things i do.


Ross
 
I just Love my VN #12, sure there is no quill,
you have to drill with the knee,& or ram, but
as a female, I have no problem with that and
I don't have that much arm strength. Collets
& Arbors, sure they're almost non existant,
but if your willing to pay Hardinge the big
bucks, you can still get them. As for myself
I, being a machine tool repair tech, I have
no problem machining my own Arbors & collets
extended boring heads etc..
Very "tight" machines. VN's will most likely
out live most of the members on this forum. :D
 
Thanks jim,

I can see it both ways ont he quill could be a pain or could not. depends how much drilling you do with it
 
Some 22Ls had Brown & Sharpe #9 spindles. You'll have to check to see which it is.
I would echo everything else said here. Not quite as versatiale as a BP as far as wacky setups but much more stout.
Andy
 
I have a 22L at work. About the only thing a 22L gives up to a Bridgeport or similar turret mill is indeed the ability to drill and bore holes at an angle. Owen's #6 (one of which I also have at work) is kinda short on room under the quill, but there's LOTS more under the 22L. Add 3 axis power feeds with rapid and the ability to work truly horizontally with a heavy overarm and I think you gain in spades what you give up to the turret mills.

A Van Norman is an extremely versatile machine if you have a handful of the original attachments. The problem is that most of these attachments seem to have wondered off into oblivion after the machine was set up in horizontal mode.

The drilling and boring attchment added a quill and another swivel to get he same movements as a Bridgeport. Slotter heads, High speed attachments (motor and gear drive), a universal subhead, outboard bracket to stiffen the overarm... all kinds of goodies. If you can find these bits, you would have a very capable machine. Next best thing is to just slap a Bridgeport or similar head on the overarm of a 22L.

BTW, Owen, when you offered that #6 for sale recently... I was just to far away or I'd have snapped that thing up so fast it would make your head spin. Once you learn to live with it, the #6 is a fantastic little mill.. key word being little.
 
Hey Bob-O

You still have the parts list for a Van Norman 22L mill...??

I am looking at bidding on one of these units. I like the versatility, and the fact that you can put a Bridgeport M Head on this unit.

> Alfredo:crazy:
 
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Ross,
A 22L can move a lot of metal! We had many of these and #12's at the 1st shop I worked in. It has power feed in all three axis. The VN50 collet is what Hardinge calls a 50V. Van Norman also made several attachments that mounted on the spindle to do additional operations such as slotting. Definitely visit the website Steve posted.

I still have a parts list for a 22L & 22M. If you get the machine & want a copy, drop me a line.
Bob
Hello I have a 22 LU van Norman mill I see u said u have some parts what dobu have in the parts department for this kind of mill thank u for ur time
 
I just bought a Van Norman 24MLA. I guess mine is just a smidge bigger than the 22. Never heard anything bad about them. I'll be taking my time getting it ready. Trying to get the overarm freed up is my 1st mission. Not sure what I need to do different?
 
Hi brockwood, I just noticed your question, about 7 months late. You've probably already dealt with this, but if not ...

When I got my #28 VN, with similar dovetailed ram and overarm, the threaded rack that runs the ram in and out was choked solid with chips. It took me several hours of moving the ram as far as I could manage (in or out), scrubbing out chips with a wire brush that I could reach from the rear or front of the column, then moving the ram the other direction (hopefully an inch or two further this time).

I also needed advise from someone here on how to remove the ram altogether, as the parts diagram has the critical part drawn in a totally wacky location on the page. At the rear of the ram, there is a plate that blocks the dovetail slot, held by a couple of screws. This plate (which may be obscured by crud and dirt, as it was in my case) comes off, then the ram can be taken off toward the front of the machine.

As to the overarm, release the locks/clamps, let a bunch of PB Blaster or Kroil or similar soak in to the dovetail joint between the ram and overarm, and then bash it with a deadblow hammer, wooden maul or similar to break it free. Other than the locks, there should not be anything holding it in place.
 








 
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