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T & C grinder finished, finally!

daryl bane

Titanium
Joined
Mar 12, 2002
Location
East Texas
Seems I'am posting alot of stuff recently, here's some more. It was a midnight ebay special. I did new bearings, repaint, etc. it was in pretty good condition, but had a nasty twist in the compound? table. The main ways were in excellent condition, but I was not impressed with its accuracy, so I rescraped the compound table and its mounting pads. Turned into a big job, as didn't seem any of the surfaces had been ground together. Everything was off. It wasn't wear or a pryor rebuild, just not very good mfg. It's good now and ready for work.
Here's the before:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/brufsupbane/28_3.jpg
And here's the after
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/brufsupbane/139-3958_IMG.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/brufsupbane/139-3957_IMG.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/brufsupbane/139-3953_IMG.jpg
 
Very nice Daryl.
your machine has the same working principle as my klaiber.except mine has a cylindrical fixture on it as well like you have on, I think in photo one ........where did it go.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/topic/10/68.html

Is there any chance of you copying the manual for me.


all the best.....mark
 
Thanks all, Mark, sorry no manual for that. Wouldn't mind having that manual myself. I still need to clean up the motor driven workhead.Tim in D bought a T & C grinder first, and I was impressed at what could be done with it, not just sharpenening stuff. Flat work , round stuff, much better than a tool post grinder.
 
Daryl, that looks super nice. How about a little more detail on what you did? Did the bed clean up that well or did you have it ground? Actually all sides look excellent, you didn't grind it all the way around I assume. What about paint type and application method? Fill us in on all the details.

-Alan
 
If you look at the surface of the compound table in the last picture you'll see that it is not ground but hand scraped, by me. The facing fronts of the compound table and carriage are ground and still have the distinctive frosting used by K.O.Lee. Since these are not really reference surfaces?,I guess you can use the front face on the compound table to align a angle? alittle Scotch-brite and some Rust-Cure did the trick. I found (when I got it) that when everything was all tightened down, the table was pretty flat. If released, it sprang up like a potato chip. On the surface plate, I found little correlation between the top of the table and the bottom, so in effect scraping "straight down" didn't really fix anything, except make the top flat. So after the top was scraped flat(nasty twist), I used that as the reference and milled in the bottom and then finished scraped it in. Now both top and bottom were parallel. This table sits on three mounting pads on the main carriage? These pads were nowhere close to being of equal height in either x or y direction, so all three had to be scraped in to be equal. A big pain in the butt. The middle
swivel pad is a bolt- on affair that, of course was not flat, as was the surface it was bolted to. After all this, the table now runs within .0002 end to end of travel. Before it was about .005+. One of the benefits is that table is now very stable, tightened or not, and does not change when angled. The main ways were in pristine condition, with all original oil flaking. The leadscrews were all excellent, as the grinder showed little use. I replaced all leadscrew bearings, etc. The spindle bearings were likewise in good condition. The original finish was cleaned and sanded, primed, spot puttied, primed, and finished coated. Had some touching up to as Prussian blue found it way on some surfaces,(don't know how that happened :rolleyes: ) The paint is good old Hammertite, thinned and sprayed with a gun. Seems this type of finish is what K.O.Lee used, and I wanted to keep that look.
 








 
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