How to Cut 1.25" Hardened Precision Shaft

Billy Boy · Nov 12, 2009

Hello.

For some reason when I was ordering this a 6' section of this stuff I thought that it was only case hardened. I cut case hardened .5" precision shaft on my band with bi-metal blade all the time so I thought it would be no problem. But this is not case hardened, it is straight up hardened, and my bands saw blade bounces off it, and my file won't cut it either.

I've got a friend with a abrasive chop saw that I can use, but I am afraid that it will heat the part up and I'll loose my precision.

I've also got a friend with a cold saw that I can use, but I sure don't want to be screwing up his blade with this thing.

Any suggestions for how I should proceed?

Thanks,

Bill

WILLEO6709 · Nov 12, 2009

get it cut with a wire edm

Billy Boy · Nov 12, 2009

Hmmm... I don't have a friend with a wire EDM that I know of.

B

MwTech Inc · Nov 12, 2009

Just take your time with the abrasive chop saw.

USMCPOP · Nov 12, 2009

I'd use a thin abrasive cut-off wheel.

Ghost · Nov 12, 2009

You can do it with the chop saw , it will just take a while. Cut untill it gets warm, stop until it gets cool. Repeat as needed. Bring a book.

Billy Boy · Nov 12, 2009

Cool. Thanks.

Is it a good idea to put wet sponges on the thing to keep it cool, or is that silly?

B

Spinit · Nov 12, 2009

Abrasive chop blade

You will likely machine the parts to length anyway and so if you use the chop saw it will likely not be any problem to cut it. If you can find a way to hold the chop blade stationary you can rig up stop on the table to cut very acuritely the overall length plus cleanup material of course. I love the things. A buddy of mine was trying to shorten up a very long boring bar with a saw. I took the boring bar which was 1 and 1/2 diameter and just wacked it right off. His eyes got big! He never realized what these things can do.

duckman · Nov 12, 2009

shafting

The comp. that I worked for made custom length Thompson rails for an other comp. We used a chop saw , put a collar on the shaft to butt against the base on the left side close the vise almost tight you want to be able to turn the shaft while cutting , don't let it spin just turn it by hand , this reduces the contact area where your cutting . we did literally miles of rails . The worst part was drilling and tapping for 1/4-20 shcs user a 9/32 carbide die drill to get thru the skin then then a #6 until you hit the skin on the other side then tap with a power tapper .

DaveE907 · Nov 12, 2009

This sounds like a make-do situation.

If its OD is important don't use wet sponges, no need to ask for rust or a wet mess. As suggested, take your time and peck cut your way through it.

Not all cutoff blades are created equal, like grinding wheels, their abrasives and bonding are available in a wide range. Retail consumer level blades are a bundle of compromises to keep unskilled operators safe. For a production job the right wheel would slice through your shaft like a stick of butter.

starbolin · Nov 12, 2009

A chop saw is usually all that is required. Others have posted good hints for that. A cold saw can also be used if you need the accuracy. Just don't throw it on you buddies saw and hope for the best however. Like any other machining operation it requires selection of cuttter, feed rate and SFPM to proceed.

Chris999 · Nov 12, 2009

Duckman has the right idea.
A chop saw will work fine, but you Must rotate the shaft while cutting otherwise it won't cut. If you use a thin wheel it won't heat up the shaft much at all.

Forrest Addy · Nov 13, 2009

Miles of this "60 Case" Tompson shaft have been cut with a chop saw so why should you have any problem?

Get hold of a plain vanilla cheapo 14" abrasive chop saw, clamp the hardened shaft in the vise and cut it using a steady downward feeding force. Dont let the wheel dwell in the cut. The wheel may glaze and cut with difficulty until you get it cutting again. Lightly bounce the wwheel against the cut to break up the glaze. Alternatively, rotate the work in the vise and cut a the new place with firm feed.

Use the standard 3/32" reinforced wheel. If it gets a little blue on the break out so what? It only turned blue for a 1/4" or so. The rest of the length is still hard. If the blue bothers you, or you really do need the very end to be at full hardness, fill a laundry squirt bottle with plain water and squirt enough water at the cut so the shaft barely sizzles.

Don't worry about precautions, wire EDM, narrow blade or whatever. Just cut it.

wippin' boy · Nov 13, 2009

Miles of this "60 Case" Tompson shaft have been cut with a chop saw so why should you have any problem?

yup
have cut millions of mil spec grade 8 bolts the same way
as long as you don't lolly gag through the thing and burn the piss out of it (i just timed a 1.5" cut at 8 seconds on my big cut off )
your only metallurgical issues are in a very small portion at the tip of the shaft
fire up the cutoff and get back to work.

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How to Cut 1.25" Hardened Precision Shaft

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