1075 blue tempered spring steel

K

Kevin Q

Aluminum

Joined

Mar 26, 2006

Location

Wyoming

• Mar 19, 2017

• #1

I have been looking, thus far in vain, for some blue tempered spring steel, 1074/1075, in a 1/4" thickness x 2" wide strip. Everything I can find is maxed out at .125" in thickness. Width seems pretty easily obtainable, thickness seems to be the limit. Anyone have a tip for where I can find this material? Thanks much, Kevin Q.

Still not having much luck on my end, am hoping for a miracle on the Practical Machinist side.

 

Last edited: Mar 19, 2017

rcoope

Stainless

Joined

Sep 25, 2010

Location

Vancouver Canada

• Mar 20, 2017

• #2

McMaster has .1875" in sheets. Generally when the thing I want doesn't seem to exist, or would require a mill run, I ask myself if maybe I'm asking for the wrong thing. Can you describe more the nature of your problem?

 

tnmgcarbide

Diamond

Joined

Jul 6, 2004

Location

N. GA- 33.992N , -83.72W usa

• Mar 20, 2017

• #3

perhaps you could source some from an automotive leaf-spring maker .

i googled and this popped up.

http://www.alcanspring.com/making.htm

no relation, never heard of them before

 

K

Kevin Q

Aluminum

Joined

Mar 26, 2006

Location

Wyoming

• Mar 20, 2017

• #4

I am making some chisels. Currently from 1/4" 1075 annealed strips, then I use a trip hammer on to thin and widen one end. I rough sand to shape, heat and quench, then draw in molten lead at 700f. Then finish sand. It is too much work. I would like to get 2" wide mat'l. already tempered for the wider end, stack several together in a vise and machine 3/8ths off either side to within 1 1/2" of the end for the handle, then angle the 2" wide area remaining back to the 1 1/4" wide handle on the belt sander. Then I would partly machine the bevel in the chisel and finish by sanding it. I sand wet to avoid annealing problems with the temper already existing in the hardened and tempered part. Use 36 grit ceramic belts. I want to avoid the hardening and tempering as it is the most time consuming and expensive. I don't know of an easier way, just need to find the mat'l. Thanks, KQ

 

J

J-Head

Hot Rolled

Joined

Oct 1, 2006

Location

Massachusetts

• Mar 21, 2017

• #5

You could buy replacement springs for a trailer.

Another option would be to buy something made out of tool steel and rework it or just buy some tool steel and heat treat it yourself.

 

rcoope

Stainless

Joined

Sep 25, 2010

Location

Vancouver Canada

• Mar 21, 2017

• #6

Are other steels an option? Like 1095 or a tool steel or even 4140? It's interesting that googling 1075 doesn't show up hardness values readily. i.e. I just found them for 1095, 4140 and A2 on first tries and nothing for 1075. I appreciate 1075 is primarily a spring steel so perhaps for a chisel something designed to harden more would be good.

 

J

Jay Fleming

Hot Rolled

Joined

Aug 7, 2014

Location

Noble, OK

• Mar 22, 2017

• #7

I'm no metallurgist, but 1080 is available in greater thicknesses.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

TDegenhart

Diamond

Joined

Mar 26, 2011

Location

Geneva Illinois USA

• Mar 22, 2017

• #8

What kind of chisel are you making? Spring temper is only about 44-48Rc, hardly hard enough for a cutting edge.

Tom

 

K

Kevin Q

Aluminum

Joined

Mar 26, 2006

Location

Wyoming

• Mar 22, 2017

• #9

The chisels are for delaminating rock layers at a fossil quarry. 1075 is hardened and tempered to R47C. I currently harden and temper my own but I am trying to eliminate those two time-consuming steps. I will look into 1080 but I haven't found any of that in thicker condition yet. KQ

 

J

Jay Fleming

Hot Rolled

Joined

Aug 7, 2014

Location

Noble, OK

• Mar 22, 2017

• #10

I may have been wrong about the 1080. Here is a place that caters to knife makers. They offer 1075 up to 3/8 but no 1/4 specifically.

High Carbon Steel | Product Categories | NJ Steel Baron

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R

rogertoolmaker

Cast Iron

Joined

Jan 3, 2016

• Mar 22, 2017

• #11

There are some minor advantages to using 1090-1095 steel. This is a eutectic steel. Carbon amounts in this percentage and quenched for hardening the carbon and iron freezes at the same time to create a homogenous structure in a plain carbon steel. There isn't free iron or free carbon coming out within the steel.

 

7

72bwhite

Titanium

Joined

Sep 26, 2012

Location

California, Ventura county

• Mar 22, 2017

• #12

might go with 5160.
probably not going to find what you want prehard

 

alonzo83

Stainless

Joined

Mar 20, 2013

Location

Missouri

• Mar 23, 2017

• #13

tnmgcarbide said:

perhaps you could source some from an automotive leaf-spring maker .

i googled and this popped up.

http://www.alcanspring.com/making.htm

Took the words out of my mouth.

Click to expand...

 

D

Dave G.

Cast Iron

Joined

Mar 24, 2005

Location

Clev, OH

• Mar 23, 2017

• #14

rogertoolmaker said:

There are some minor advantages to using 1090-1095 steel. This is a eutectic steel. Carbon amounts in this percentage and quenched for hardening the carbon and iron freezes at the same time to create a homogenous structure in a plain carbon steel. There isn't free iron or free carbon coming out within the steel.

Click to expand...

To be a stickler on the metallurgy, 1074 is a eutectoid steel - at the point where there should be no free ferrite or carbide on the grain boundaries. 1090-1095 are hypereutectic steels that have grain boundary carbides. They tend to be hard, but brittle (think files). The C-Fe eutectic point is ~4.2 Wt% C and is a cast iron and not a steel. A eutectoid transformation is a solid to solid transformation, a eutectic transformation is a liquid to solid transformation.

 

D

dsergison

Diamond

Joined

Oct 23, 2003

Location

East Peoria, IL, USA

• Mar 28, 2017

• #15

Interesting application. Why does the steel alloy matter at all? Do they perform better when somewhat softer than normal chisels? It's all the same modulus so transmitted shock should all be the same... ?