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Thread: 1144 Round Rod

  1. #41
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    Looks like TG&P (turned, ground and polished) which is just a bearing fit quality finish. Still should work easily assuming it is 1144.
    The tooling looks ok. You should be able to do the majority of the turning and profiling with the diamond shaped insert. The boring bar looks fine, but I couldn't tell where you were using the threading insert

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by eaglemike View Post
    I use 1144/stressproof often. Never ever came in shiny finish. When I started in a shop 40 years ago I learned about this stuff. Nice to machine, good mechanicals for how easy it is to machine. Case hardens well too. Never ever shiny bar though from the supplier..... Came out of the 1144 bin, LOL.
    I have a bunch of 7/8" round drops about 5 inches or so long. I could send you one in a priority mail flat rate box, and you could see how nice that stuff really is.
    [email protected]. Can you take Paypal? for your trouble? Thanks Todd

  3. #43
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    Just taking a few pictures of some of the tool holders I use. I could go by a machine shop, there are not many, there are two auto engine re builders in town I might visit, and bring the piece of 1144? There are almost no machine shops here, because all businesses and companies have been here after 1960, and the manufacturers, mostly gambling devices, parts come from over seas. The two plating houses in town, send items out to other states.
    I am going to be tied up with some medical tests for the next few days, so may not have anything to add till then. But might try to order a bit of 4140 to see the difference.
    Thanks again to everyone.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by todd1 View Post
    [email protected]. Can you take Paypal? for your trouble? Thanks Todd
    Todd,
    PM me your addr, and I'll throw some in the mail. Usually takes 2 days to LV from here.

  5. Likes todd1 liked this post
  6. #45
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    Thank you Mike, received your rod, and it machines great. Have to agree with everyone, don't think I got 1144 regardless of what the supplier states.
    I have another question about 3 phase converter use or not to use. Where might I post the question?
    Thanks to all Todd

  7. #46
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    Post the question about the 3 phase converter in the transformer and phase converter section

    Tom

  8. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by todd1 View Post
    Running 230 rpm, and feed of 104 per inch. To face on the 2 1/2 rod took about three minutes or more to center. Will take picture tomorrow. Again also never had cut off wheels torn up like this before, to finally cut off the rod took about two hours because each pass took off a tiny bit more.
    I am an amateur, been doing this for about thirty years, but purely as a hobby. In my restoration of old cars, jukeboxes, etc., try to keep everything original so would need to make bolts, medallion holders, carburetor parts, plastic handles, brass you name it, where I only had to make a few for myself and possibly a few friends. Never bothered much with numbers on the steel, when I would go to the metals supply house that had been in business for thirty years or longer, they would ask a few questions and tell me what I needed. I am open to any steel that is machinable and can stand up to some stress, wear, usage.
    .
    150 sfpm is fast

  9. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMF_TomB View Post
    .
    150 sfpm is fast
    Using carbide, 150 sfpm is slow on real 1144. Not sure how much experience you have with that stuff. I've been using it off and on for 40 years.

  10. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by eaglemike View Post
    Using carbide, 150 sfpm is slow on real 1144. Not sure how much experience you have with that stuff. I've been using it off and on for 40 years.
    .
    .
    got nothing to do with tool over heating. got to do with less than rigid setups generating vibration which breaks down cutting edges. carbide is not the best material to use when vibration is a problem. its brittle
    .
    slowing down usually less vibration. thats been my experience machining last 40 years. get it cutting slow at least it works. you can always speed up later
    .
    some low hp machines will stall out or spindle slow stop suddenly when pushed. wide swings in rpm. that alone can break a cutting tool edge in seconds

  11. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMF_TomB View Post
    .
    .
    got nothing to do with tool over heating. got to do with less than rigid setups generating vibration which breaks down cutting edges. carbide is not the best material to use when vibration is a problem. its brittle
    .
    slowing down usually less vibration. thats been my experience machining last 40 years. get it cutting slow at least it works. you can always speed up later
    .
    some low hp machines will stall out or spindle slow stop suddenly when pushed. wide swings in rpm. that alone can break a cutting tool edge in seconds
    Tom, we ALWAYS want good shop practice, which sort of includes setups as rigid as possible. That might be one of the elements on a spreadsheet. Setup rigid? y/n


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