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5" 4 jaw self centering chuck for HLVH

TimH

Hot Rolled
Joined
Oct 12, 2004
Location
Upstate NY
I am looking to purchase a 5" 4 jaw self centering chuck for an HLVH. I bought a 6"Buck chuck I haven't used it yet but it seems too big for the lathe so I'm probably going to return it. . The company I work for has an account with MSC so I'm stuck buying what they offer that's on our contract list. Special orders are a pain in the butt to get through. So my options are limited to Bison or Gibraltar brand. Does anyone havean opinion on these 2 brands?

As I mentioned I haven't used the 6" chuck because I'll probably return it. That said is anyone using a 6" chuck on their HLVH? If so are satisfied with the larger chuck.

Thanks
Tim
 
IMHO you won't go far wrong with Bison, .....they have a good rep on PM and are reasonable value.

No direct experience but apart from the possible extra slow down time I can't see a 6'' chuck being a problem on a 12'' lathe, .I regularly run a 6 I/2'' Tudor 3 jaw chuck on my 10" SB clone.
 
I am looking to purchase a 5" 4 jaw self centering chuck for an HLVH. I bought a 6"Buck chuck I haven't used it yet but it seems too big for the lathe so I'm probably going to return it. . The company I work for has an account with MSC so I'm stuck buying what they offer that's on our contract list. Special orders are a pain in the butt to get through. So my options are limited to Bison or Gibraltar brand. Does anyone havean opinion on these 2 brands?

As I mentioned I haven't used the 6" chuck because I'll probably return it. That said is anyone using a 6" chuck on their HLVH? If so are satisfied with the larger chuck.

Thanks
Tim

I have 2 6" chucks for my HLV, an HLV will handle a 6" chuck just fine. The only downside to these chucks is that their attached to backing plates, so I've lost maybe 1" of carriage travel compared to a chuck with an integral taper.
 
MSC has Yuasa in their catalogue, they make a really nice 3 jaw


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My HLV-H came with a 6" Cushman chuck. Any bigger would be a problem and inch smaller would probably not hurt. I bored and turned some pulleys for an HXL a couple of weeks ago they were near limit of what could be done on the lathe and the 6 inch worked well.
 
The HLV-H has an 11" swing and Hardinge sells 6" Buck chucks for it. I use 6.3" steel body PBA Setrite 3-jaw and 6-jaw chucks on my 9" swing Hardinge lathes. They work fine, but I also have some 4" Buck 6-jaw Ajust-Tru chucks on 5C arbors that I find handy for smaller work.

I have some 4-jaw self-centering and some 4-jaw combination chucks that I do not use, so it is too bad you have to buy from MSC.

By the way, chuck adapters with the Hardinge 4 degree mount are rather hard to find. Hardinge will sell you an expensive cast iron 4 degree "fixture plate" that will work to make a 4-jaw chuck adapter. PBA has Hardinge mount steel adapters for their own chucks. Be sure you can get an adapter for whatever chuck you decide to order.

Larry
 
Some might consider it uneconomic (or not, considering the MSC/J&L prices that Sami linked to), but it's not particularly difficult to machine a backplate to fit the Hardinge spindle. Provided you've got any-old existing chuck or an expanding 5C mandrel, you can turn a lump of steel or cast iron into a backplate fairly simply. The trick is to set the top/compound slide to the right taper angle by mounting a DTI on it and measuring off the one that Hardinge have supplied you with. Dog point screws can be made from any grub/set screws you've got to hand.

Worked for me!
 
Some might consider it uneconomic (or not, considering the MSC/J&L prices that Sami linked to), but it's not particularly difficult to machine a backplate to fit the Hardinge spindle. Provided you've got any-old existing chuck or an expanding 5C mandrel, you can turn a lump of steel or cast iron into a backplate fairly simply. The trick is to set the top/compound slide to the right taper angle by mounting a DTI on it and measuring off the one that Hardinge have supplied you with. Dog point screws can be made from any grub/set screws you've got to hand.

Worked for me!
I have a chuck to fit the hardinge taper, back plate was a threaded mount and someone cut the taper in it. It had me going for a while because on the small end I could see what was left of the threads. I was looking at the Hardinge dividing head and the light came on, replaced the missing set screw with a modified end and it seats on nicely. Not bad for a Jacobs collet chuck I bought and was going to re-purpose for a D1-5 spindle.
Dan
 
Thanks for the input everyone. We decided to return the 6" chuck. I'm used to using the 5" 3 jaw chucks on the machine and the 6" "felt" weird. The fellow I work with really hated the 6" so we're exchanging it for a 5". I really like the quality of the set tru buck chuck. Hopefully the Bison ( only had a choice between Bison & Gibraltar ) will be as nice.

Thanks Again

Tim
 
Thanks for the input everyone. We decided to return the 6" chuck. I'm used to using the 5" 3 jaw chucks on the machine and the 6" "felt" weird. The fellow I work with really hated the 6" so we're exchanging it for a 5". I really like the quality of the set tru buck chuck. Hopefully the Bison ( only had a choice between Bison & Gibraltar ) will be as nice.

Thanks Again

Tim

The Buck, BTC and Pratt Burnerd adjustable chucks have the four adjusting screws at 90 degree spacing. They adjust like an independent 4-jaw chuck. You back off one screw and tighten the opposite screw. The first pair of screws that are zeroed can be left alone while adjusting the second set, and then you are done. Easy and convenient and it is an idea that has worked for well over 100 years.

But Bison designers came up with a worse idea. The four adjusting screws are not at 90 degree spacing. You have to back off two screws and tighten the two opposite screws, and so on and on... It makes the adjusting process take much longer and I got so annoyed that I sold my new Bison adjustable 3-jaw chuck and bought another PBA Setrite, which does have the four screws at 90 degree spacing. For what it is worth, the bad adjusting system was the only fault I found in that Bison chuck. If you get a different style of Bison chuck that does not have the four odd-spaced adjusting screws, like an independent 4-jaw, you should be pleased with it.

I have never seen a Gibraltar chuck, so I don't know how they are made. I did talk to a Gator chuck salesman and was told that they copied the (bad) Bison design. He was offering me a very generous discount, but I said no thanks once the "Bison copy" feature was disclosed.

Larry
 
I have a Bison 3605-5 4 jaw chuck on my HLV-TFB. It has the two piece jaws which fit tight. It is a very nice chuck and I use it more than my 3 jaw. It was on ebay but wasn't described as a Bison so it was very reasonable. Mine doesn't have the adjusting screws so I can't speak to that. I think you'll be happy with yours.
MT6
 
I will admit to being slightly confused that a 6" chuck is thought to be too big for an HLV-H. I've got Hardinge 5" chucks on my HLV (no-H) and I regularly think that they are too small. I'd think that a 6" or 8" chuck would be a far better fit.
 








 
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