I have a Supermax mill that was abused and they smashed on of the lines that goes through the knee. Anyone know where I can find 8mm OD copper or alum coil stock? I tried Mcmaster, no go. I cannot smash the bushing tight enough for 1/8" line to work. Really don't want to change out the fittings to something imperial, might get real $ for just one bad line.
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8mm soft bend tubing for Supermax mill one shot lube veins?
- Thread starter caddguy
- Start date
- Replies 10
- Views 1,783
lionelt
Stainless
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2010
- Location
- Oxfordshire
greenbuggy
Stainless
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2005
- Location
- Firestone, CO
When I had to replace some of that I just bought a roll of it on eBay. Looks like you can get 2 feet of it for about $15
8mm copper tubing | eBay
8mm copper tubing | eBay
Forrest Addy
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2000
- Location
- Bremerton WA USA
I dunno if this helps but there may be some quick and dirty fixes: 8 mm is 0.315" in hairy chested manly units. 5/16" (0.3125") is a standard copper tube size (get the heavier walled stuff from a refrigeration shop.)
Then there is brake line from the auto parts store. It comes pre-double flared with a ferrule nut but you can cut those off.
Call them short order expedients to get you over the hump until you can get the official tubing you need
Then there is brake line from the auto parts store. It comes pre-double flared with a ferrule nut but you can cut those off.
Call them short order expedients to get you over the hump until you can get the official tubing you need
lionelt
Stainless
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2010
- Location
- Oxfordshire
Bill D
Diamond
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2004
- Location
- Modesto, CA USA
can you save the ends and solder a length of imperial tube for the center portion? I do not think this sees much pressure.
Bill
Bill
Mud
Diamond
- Joined
- May 20, 2002
- Location
- South Central PA
8mm sounds awful big, Could it be 5/32" - .156"?
Forrest Addy
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2000
- Location
- Bremerton WA USA
That got me thinking: I went out to my tiny stash of Bijur stuff. Sure enough,the tubing is 0.156 (5/32) made of what looks like soft brass. Its very supple and seems to work harden less than copper.
There was an earlier suggestion to salvage the terminations and soft solder in a length of larger copper tube.
I'm not sure of sizes you might be able to trim back and sleeve the damaged lube line in place. I think 3/16" OD copper tube tubing can be made to clear 5/32 if you anneal and swage it with a suitable polished punch to leave solder clearance. Oil doesn't bother solder joints nor does soldering heat bother oil much. Use a hefty soldering iron and paste flux. The surfaces to have to be bright metal and clean of oxides.
Bill D
Diamond
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2004
- Location
- Modesto, CA USA
There was an earlier suggestion to salvage the terminations and soft solder in a length of larger copper tube.
I'm not sure of sizes you might be able to trim back and sleeve the damaged lube line in place. I think 3/16" OD copper tube tubing can be made to clear 5/32 if you anneal and swage it with a suitable polished punch to leave solder clearance. Oil doesn't bother solder joints nor does soldering heat bother oil much. Use a hefty soldering iron and paste flux. The surfaces to have to be bright metal and clean of oxides.[/QUOTE]
I bought a small multi stepped punch made just for this purpose. Each step allows you to form a bell end to accept that size male tube. am not really sure how you are supposed to hold the tube while punching. I use a flaring block tool. I think going up more then one step would tear the metal. Maybe it could be annealed at each step?
I'm not sure of sizes you might be able to trim back and sleeve the damaged lube line in place. I think 3/16" OD copper tube tubing can be made to clear 5/32 if you anneal and swage it with a suitable polished punch to leave solder clearance. Oil doesn't bother solder joints nor does soldering heat bother oil much. Use a hefty soldering iron and paste flux. The surfaces to have to be bright metal and clean of oxides.[/QUOTE]
I bought a small multi stepped punch made just for this purpose. Each step allows you to form a bell end to accept that size male tube. am not really sure how you are supposed to hold the tube while punching. I use a flaring block tool. I think going up more then one step would tear the metal. Maybe it could be annealed at each step?
AlfaGTA
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2002
- Location
- Benicia California USA
I am confused....If indeed your tube is 8mm why can't you sub 5/16" tube???????
If this has compression fittings at the ends to make up the seal, simply make some new tube sleeves that fit the 5/16 tube...
Have done this before and it works fine, had no problem sealing the ends. Make the sleeves from soft (360) brass....Drill for the tube size then turn the OD and the taper on one end , part off.
Hold the sleeve using a lightly tapered pin in the drilled hole to cut the second side taper....Takes about 5 min. per side....
Cheers Ross
If this has compression fittings at the ends to make up the seal, simply make some new tube sleeves that fit the 5/16 tube...
Have done this before and it works fine, had no problem sealing the ends. Make the sleeves from soft (360) brass....Drill for the tube size then turn the OD and the taper on one end , part off.
Hold the sleeve using a lightly tapered pin in the drilled hole to cut the second side taper....Takes about 5 min. per side....
Cheers Ross
