adding pallet jack oil - OK, where's it FILL@?

I'll be corn-swoggled if I can figure where to add jack oil to this thing. saw an oil puddle under it recently. made by 'king' (whoever/wherever they are). I guess in china (no add'l info or label). bought it on ebay, can't find a manufacturers site or manual for it online. actually, have no idea of model number anyway.

I've posted five 1024 x 768 images of the 'central ram' part of this thing online, from all sides of it - clicking the tiny thumb here should open the page.



I have a multi-pallet move coming up a few days from now; -prefer- my ol' klunker jack not run out'a oil during those 'festivities' if I can help it...

ps-would some kind soul here please outline the specific topping-up, and/or air-bleeding procedure for this jack, or point me to a manual for a similar jack where it's outlined? does it fill at the 'mid ram' half-round rubber-plugged bunghole? or that big bottom bolthead?

is some arcane procedure involved, like

"jack it up fully, chock the forks UP, set the center-top handle to the fully- lowered position, THEN fill it while it's set in lowered position but WITH its forks still raised" involved, or something?

doesn't seem to be any 'jet type 65' screws up top, or whatever jet uses...

all in all, a bit baffling.

thanks guys

ps-a word to the wise, and those of you guys that might not already know:

nearly all pallet jacks sold look -very- much alike, even those sold by the same manufacturer. same color, sizes, lifting capacities, etc however they're really two types of pallet jacks, only discernable if you look *extremely* close: the serviceable kind, and the UNserviceable kind . on the UNserviceable ones, instead of using allen setscrews, etc, they do stuff like drive spring-steel rollpins driven past flush down into blind holes in the castings to secure the wheel axles, and other parts. yeah, I tried using my dent-knocker to extract 'em, no dice on that idea. my urethane tires started cracking, on the forks end. thought about it, then went ahead and chiseled 'em both right off their rims (wheel axles -not- removeable) - the urethane was turning to like a "red jelly-like" krap (there was nothing else I -could- do). a week later the steering end, more cracking, more jelly-rot, more chiseling, and a tiny bit of acetone.

so now I have a "low profile" pallet jack, but no more "jelly-rotting urethane" worries. look close in my five pix...the wheels have 'lackatire-itis', but it still lifts good, steers good, and rolls around pretty good, though not quite as quietly as it used to....

thanks for your help on the oil-fill port and tips guys

Firstly real urethane dont go jellt like unless your running through some realy nasty puddles.

Secoundly the resiviour is the od of the ram casing. See that little dimple opposie the handle, thats normally a rubber gromet. Prixe the bugger out. Apply bandage to were you stuck the screw driver in your hand doing so. Then making sure shes fully down fill to just a nats bellow that port. If you do it with her raised expect a puddle the first time she goes down all the way :-) Oh then reinsert the bung, wipe up the oil and it will be good for a few more months - weeks - days - hours depending on loading weights and leakage :-)

Old formulation urethane deteriorates that way. Even 1970 vintage Hewlett Packard printer belts and rollers, which you would expect would be good quality, turned to goo. By 1980, the problem appears to have been solved. Around then I made some diaphragms for a company who later screwed us in a manner that insures we will never do business with them again. I kept one of the diaphragms waiting for it to fail so I could enjoy their discomfort and refuse to make replacements, but it is still good. I guess the Chinese haven't caught up with (ie, stolen) that technology yet.

Bill

thanks adama (and 9100). "for perfect clarity" posted another quick image, to make sure we're discussing the same 'bung hole fillport' (has arrow pointing to it, etc). pls click for BIG version




thanks again

ps-I'm now nearly totally free of "polyura-jelly" tires, except on some of my swivel casters...

I'm not adama, but his info is spot on including the hole in your hand from the screwdriver. Your pic is correct, plug usually comes out a lot easier than they go back in. A screwdriver is my tool of choice to get the plug started strait, the a good bump with a mallet.


ME

X2 on that Polyura-Jelly phenom!

I'll second that Polyura-jelly phenomenon. I've lost a bunch of tires to that - I like the polyurethane tires so well, though, I just replaced most of them with more of the same and am hoping for the best...the ones that went bad were made in U.S., IIRC, Albion. The rest I'm just running in low profile mode, as you are.

At first I thought I might have gotten something on them, then I ran across a few that I had stored away in a box, same deal - used or not, Polyura-jelly!

Had the same problem with polyurethane wheels. I was unloading a Monarch 10EE from a tiltbed trailer onto a heavily textured concrete driveway (fake cobblestones), and the front poly wheels disintegrated under load.

Solved it by making replacements on the lathe out of steel. A bit noisier, but at least now in a pinch I can count on the integrity of the wheels.

you can cut the steel rollpins out using a dremel or diegrinder
and a carbide ball burr of the appropriate size, just use lots of coolant
water works well, as will most anything handy.

i take them out in short plunges, dip.. squirt, dip.. squirt

and they cut right out.

that is "if" you can get at them.

bob g