Seems you have already found the bolt holes and likely used them for knockoffs, but I prefer the torch for fine precision work like this. Doesn't sound right, does it? It's true. It's not the blacksmith's method, it's actually better than any puller you can use. I remove bearings this way nearly every day. Try it one time and you'll be a believer.
When you drive or pull the bearing off, you are going to smear the fit and possibly cock the inner race as it comes off. Same for any method that forces the bearing off the fit. One removal will not be an issue, but I end up knurling and even spraying a lot of pump motor shafts after several times of pressing the bearing off. When you remove a bearing that is pressed on without loosening the fit, the shaft seat is going to flow. No way around it.
You'll have to burn off the outer race. No big deal, just don't point the torch at the part you don't want cut. Start at the open end, tangential to the shaft and don't dally around. Quickly heat the edge of the race until it starts to melt and hit the O2. Just wash a slot in the outer race, stopping as close as you dare to the shoulder. Repeat 180 degrees out. If it doesn't fall off, wedge a screwdriver or chisel in the gap, or just grab with pliers, and the remaining ring at the shoulder will pop.
Now, let everything cool to room temp. Once cool, stand the shaft on end, possibly suspended with a chain or whatever (large diam shafts will usually balance on end). Fire up the torch and put the heat directly on the inner race and start working it around. Idea is to get the heat into the inner race. When the inner race expands, it turns loose and creates an air gap. Once the gap is formed, even less heat is transferred to the shaft, speeding expansion of the race. When you hit the magic temp, the bearing falls off. No marring of the race, no problems. You have not changed the fit of the shaft, as the bearing never slid off under pressure.
Grinding works OK in some cases, but this is to a shoulder. You'll risk hitting the shoulder with a grindwheel actually more than with the torch.
When you put those bearings back on, you'll need to find a bearing heater to reverse the process. Last thing you want to do to your precision bearings is put them in a press and cram them on. With a bearing heater, you set the temp (240F or so), turn on the heater, and it lets you know when the bearing is at temp. Wearing gloves, you QUICKLY slide the bearing onto the seat. No forceing of any kind, no chance of brinelling (when the press starts clunking as the bearing is pressed on), no fear of bearing damage.