What's new
What's new

Best Way to Hold a Block on a Mill

adh2000

Titanium
Joined
Dec 21, 2005
Location
Waukesha, WI
This is pretty basic I know, but.... I have 10 blocks of A2 annealed condition. Each block is 2.5" x 3.0" x 10". These are swaging die blanks. I need to take about 0.10" off each side to get them to size which I'd like to do with a 4" diameter face mill on a Deckel FP2. I'd like to do one pass per side but then how to clamp the block to the table? Just clamp it in a vise? I'd rather clamp it directly down to the table somehow. So what's the best method?
 
Use a vice to hold the part, but with 123 blocks or similar under the ends of the part. When you clamp the part in the vice to can tap down either side against the blocks to keep the part flat.
 
OK. Your block is only 10" long. In a 6" vise, hold on about .100 and mill the wide (3") face on all blocks.
Now bury the block in the vise with the just-cut face against the solid jaw. Use a pc of round stock between the unfinished side and movable jaw.
Cut the 2.5" side on all.
Flip so 3" side is still against solid jaw, fresh milled side down,
pc of round stock between unfinished stock and movable jaw. Tap block lightly to seat.
Cut other 2.5" side on all.
Hold on .100 again with 3" finished side down, tap down lightly and mill last 3" side.
You will want to check squareness and parallel each time you flip to a new side if it's critical.
I would suggest rough and finish pass. Rough so the cut is into the fixed jaw, finish the opposite way. This will cut down on your burr.
Don't horse down on the clamping. Depending on the quality of your vise you could force out-of-square into your part.
Good luck, keep us posted.
 
A good milling vise is probably the best way and it will certainly be the fastest way to work. And you can work on three sides of your block with one sitting: the top and the two ends.

If you really want to clamp it down to the table, you can put a spacer under it to give you some clearance for the cutter and use standard clamps. Put all the clamps on one side (in the back) and then you can work on the opposite side and the two ends, using the side of the milling cutter. With a good set-up and some care (lock down any axis you are not currently using) you should be able to square those three sides at the first sitting. The other three will probably need to be done one at at time.

A tip: since you are doing a batch of these, some kind of stop or stops can be used with the vise or the clamps to allow the partially finished parts to be located in the same position on the table. I have a set of three shop-made stops for situations like this. Three points of contact, two on one side and the third on an adjacent side will provide a unique location on the table for successive parts. These are not clamps, just position locators.
 
Get some J&S clamps and use those, shim up any corners that make it rock on the first side and tighten them down. Used them all the time on Titanium and Aluminum plate stack for facing and tooling/bolt holes.
Another way would be to put some shallow slots in the side for a thin nosed bar clamp; Obviously another operation so probably not an answer you're wanting?
Dan
 
I'm going to ask why you want to clamp the stock to the table??

Need some OT?

Don't like squaring up vises?

You aren't one of those elitist pricks that thinks vises are for hacks and everything needs some
kind of stupid fixture that takes forever to load and unload parts?...... I had to ask.

VISE!!! It doesn't even need to be square for what you are doing.

A vise is an awesome clamp, grabs the stock really well, holds it square and level, and gives you good
access to the side the spindle is on (the TOP).
 
I'm going to ask why you want to clamp the stock to the table??

Need some OT?

Don't like squaring up vises?

You aren't one of those elitist pricks that thinks vises are for hacks and everything needs some
kind of stupid fixture that takes forever to load and unload parts?...... I had to ask.

VISE!!! It doesn't even need to be square for what you are doing.

A vise is an awesome clamp, grabs the stock really well, holds it square and level, and gives you good
access to the side the spindle is on (the TOP).

The only thing I like to use over a vise is a mod plate with the lenzkes clamps. Those things are pretty handy.
 
So what's the best method?

Vise off. Stock flat on the table. Toe clamps if you must. Same as a planer. Otherwise conventional top clamping. (J&S are a form of toe-clamp ++)

You need it clear, full sweep, but only on the one face at a time, and you need it to NOT be able to rock or loosen from vibration and shift or lift.

Blocks-under overhang, vise only at center? That is not assured.

TWO vises - if you can do that - would be OK. Should own a matched pair anyway.
Now's the time, if not already. Seek the sort as can be set close together.

Doubt your Deckel would be happy with one BIG one.
 
I'd rather clamp it directly down to the table somehow.

Why?

The only reason I can think of wanting to clamp to the table is you are using the horizontal spindle. In which case you set the part on shims and clamp directly over the shims with strap clamps.

If you are using the vertical spindle you need to buy a new Kurt 6" vise. After you use a Kurt vise you won't have any concerns about holding the part in a vise.
 
You aren't one of those elitist pricks that thinks vises are for hacks
Got it in one. Of course. How'd you guess?

My time on a planer? Or my preference for horizontal mills over vertical ones?

And I could only WISH my prick was half as "elitist" as my mindset. Dead-average, emphasis on the 'dead' part, sadly.

:(
and everything needs some kind of stupid fixture that takes forever to load and unload parts?...... I had to ask.
Toe clamps, Mitee bites?.. hardly "stupid" nor complicated. You shouldn't HAVE to ask.

Never was keen on the machine deciding to "unload" a part at a time, place, and manner of its own choosing rather than mine is all.

Got vises, too. Lot more than just one type. When appropriate.

Largest one just happens to have ten-inch wide jaws.

The OP don't have one like that, or he'd not be asking.


:D
 
The only thing I like to use over a vise is a mod plate with the lenzkes clamps. Those things are pretty handy.

I've played with their clamps quite a few times. They send 'em out for free and let you play with them for a
few months. I've enjoyed using them, but could never justify the cost for the very few times they've actually
helped me out. Its some really sweet stuff, if you have the right type of work for 'em..

I'm just tossing a shameless plug out there, it is some nice stuff, and they do let you play with it for
free, and they even send a return shipping label, and they don't hound the crap out of you. Decent company,
nice stuff, and when I DO NEED it, I know exactly where I'm getting it.
 
Later in life, after the kids are gone, you find yourself with some time and a little money in your pocket so you pursue a hobby you always enjoyed. Ask a few simple questions once in a while just to make sure you haven't overlooked something. Get called a dumb ass and an elitist prick at the same time. Thanks for that, I've been called worse you know and by women uglier than you. As to the problem at hand thank you NO I was not looking for a harder way to do it. If the vise is accepted method then I'll have at it. FWIW the K&T is tied up with another project, the Deckel is the open machine. Was wanting to try out the horizontal with a slab mill but alas no overarm for the FP2, project's too big for the FP1. So vertical head it is with the face mill. The swaging outfit tells me they blanchard grind their die blanks. Why bother? I don't know. More stupid questions. I'm thinking I'll take them down to about 20 thou over size and surface grind from there.
 








 
Back
Top