best way to safely turn over a heavy workpiece, which does NOT have eyebolt's in end

bryan_machine · Aug 23, 2014

Best way to safely turn over a heavy workpiece (steel but maybe aluminum) when the workpiece does NOT have any sort of threaded hole for an eyebolt in the ends?

Doing it last night I used my handy little forklift and pickup magnet, that worked pretty well for moving heavy steel plates around and in/out of the milling machine. But turning a plate over to allow machining features on the other side was a real chore.

[These plates were die-set shoes, 24"x16" by 1.5" or 1.75" steel. Quite heavy. Slipery, so hard to turn over with a lever. I ended up putting one onto the forklift tines and then sliding it off. This worked, but was VERY loud and surely isn't the best way.]

So, I'm hoping for some relatively easy to store not too pricey forklift attachment to deal with this when it comes up again.

I work alone, have no employees, don't allow visitors when this sort of work is in progress.

[Searching on this question seems to produce all threads about heavy-10 lathes, so I must ask again. Simple pointers to previous threads on the topic are a welcome reply.]

bridgedog · Aug 23, 2014

I have used continuous loop synthetic rigging slings. I use a pipe on bearings on the forks and wrap the pipe and the item with the slings. As the pipe is rotated it slowly rotates the item being suspended by the slings. I have used this method for small items all the way up to a crane carrier frame. If the item is narrower than tall you have to adjust the height of the rolling mechanism as you are rotating. I may have some pics I will look when I get time.

Tyrone Shoelaces · Aug 23, 2014

Continuous loop nylon slings with appropriate protective sleeves ( sections of old tyres will do) on the sharp edges in a choke hitch. Make yourself a little jib type fitting for your forklift. Regards Tyrone.

bridgedog · Aug 23, 2014

A choke hitch will still flop the item over and requires some balancing to get it started. Envision a set of pulleys and belt. The upper pulley rotates the lower which is the part. I do agree with protecting the slings from any sharp edges.

Ranchero50 · Aug 23, 2014

I too use a sling for that type work except I'll do a choker hold at the edge so the edge lifts first. Then once it's at @ 70 degrees, hop off the lift an flip the part the rest of the way over. Lower strap and remove.

Safety: Always flip the part away from the tips of the lift forks. Also use a clevis to hold the bitter ends together if you chose to do a basket hold so you won't have to worry about one end popping off the end of the fork if the load shifts.

Modelman · Aug 23, 2014

For flipping plate like this I use a piece of plate with an eye welded to one edge, although an eyebolt sized hole cut in the plate would work too. Clamp the plate securely to the plate to be flipped, lift until the plate is almost standing on edge, give it a little push so it goes over center, and lower it back down.

Dennis

adama · Aug 23, 2014

Secret is to keep what ever lifting straop you use in tension. Once you have done it a few times you soon forget just how hard it seams.

AARONT · Aug 23, 2014

What about a strong magnet you can attach to the tines of your forklift? Something kind of like this. MAG-MATE Lifting Magnet,1000 lb Cap,10-3/4 In OAL - Below-the-Hook Lifting Magnets - 2RUZ7|CL1000 - Grainger Industrial Supply

bryan_machine · Aug 23, 2014

I think I see this now.

@Ranchero50 - when you said "always away from the tips..." you mean towards the forklift carriage, so there isn't a force trying to pull the straps off the ends of the fork tines, right?

bryan_machine · Aug 23, 2014

@AARONT - I have such a magnet, but it wouldn't grab the end, only the faces.

cvairwerks · Aug 23, 2014

Bryan: Sounds like you need a spreader bar with rollers. Have a buddy that has a monument works and they use one to flip granite blocks all the time. Here's a line to a catalog with some: Granite City Tool - Monument Catalog 2013 Just need to add your continous loop slings.

Ranchero50 · Aug 23, 2014

bryan_machine said:
I think I see this now.

@Ranchero50 - when you said "always away from the tips..." you mean towards the forklift carriage, so there isn't a force trying to pull the straps off the ends of the fork tines, right?

Yep. Because the part will want to move the strap. Ideally you can drive the lift forward as it drops or use C clamps. I'm not a big fan of C clamps on forks.

IronReb · Aug 23, 2014

I believe a custom built A frame for limited space would pay for it self.
Maybe even a mono rail over your machinery.

You would have much more control with a chain fall hooked over head than with the forklift.

bryan_machine · Aug 23, 2014

@all - Thanks - I really do understand much better now. Both from your helpful answers, and because those answers gave me search terms that popped up pictures where I went "oh.... THAT must be what they meant..."

@IronReb - some real problems with the that - but I've been thinking along those lines...

eKretz · Aug 23, 2014

Normally I'd suggest an overhead crane and a strap, but since it seems more like you want a simple low budget solution: Use some 4x4s as rails, lay the part on them so that it can be flipped and still land on them - then fasten a c-clamp to use as a handle. Use a lever also if it's too heavy to do by hand alone. If you don't have enough clearance to completely flip it due to the c-clamp, flip it 90° then reverse the c-clamp before flipping it another 90°.

Mcgyver · Aug 23, 2014

Plate clamp. Ideally with a crane, but a forklift will work

Milland · Aug 23, 2014

And since you work by yourself, make sure to have a cell phone (charged and gets reception!) on you while you're working. If a plate lands on your leg, or you're otherwise pinned but conscious, the cell can be used to get help. Not so useful if you're unconscious or injured to the point of incapacitation, but you do what you can...

Richard King · Aug 23, 2014

I have drilled 1" holes (or the fork truck had them from the factory) thru the forks approx 6" from the end in the middle. Then used an eye bolt, washers, nut and clevis to hold the nylon strap. If you don't have a hole be sure to use a safety chain so the strap doesn't slide off the forks. be sure to choke the strap o it turns toward the lift so the strap slides toward you and not away.

bridgedog · Aug 23, 2014

As much as I liked holes in my forks if you are under the scrutiny of any osha or other such enity you will be fined heavily.

Richard King said:
I have drilled 1" holes (or the fork truck had them from the factory) thru the forks approx 6" from the end in the middle. Then used an eye bolt, washers, nut and clevis to hold the nylon strap. If you don't have a hole be sure to use a safety chain so the strap doesn't slide off the forks. be sure to choke the strap o it turns toward the lift so the strap slides toward you and not away.

adama · Aug 23, 2014

Other thing to note is don't rely on a magnet for doing this, whilst you may get away with it, its a bad idea, as most magnets when loaded will slip if given the chance, not a issue on a flat plate, but something approaching 45 degrees on a nice smooth machined surface and a alloyed steel (does not take much of certain elements to really reduce magnetic stiction!!) u may well find the coefficient of friction is low enough for it to slide right off! Seen it done with a large lump of hardox and the results were a hell of a crash! Yet it was only about half the magnets rated working load.

best way to safely turn over a heavy workpiece, which does NOT have eyebolt's in end

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