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Burnerd Collet Chuck - help needed

Huntmaster

Plastic
Joined
Jan 22, 2018
I have recently picked up a Burnerd Multisize Collet chuck and set of collets. It's the lever action type (LC15 I think). Problems is, either I'm an idiot or it's seized.

It came with the lever and clamp for the lathe bed which I have set up. I can unscrew the cap from the front and take the collets in and out no problem. But the lever won't budge in any direction.

I did a search and a few people here seem to use these. Could someone give me an idiots guide to how to use this, in case I'm doing something stupid. I presumed you put the collet in, screw on the front cap hand tight to take up the slack, pull/push the lever to clamp the workpiece, spin the lathe and start cutting.

Alternatively does anyone have a user manual/ exploded diagram of one of these. I'm thinking I might have to take it apart if it really is seized.

Thanks in advance.
 
That outer sleeve that the lever fits over like a shift fork in a transmission needs to be able to slide back and forth. Try it with no collet installed and see if it slides easily. If not, pull the chuck apart and figure out why the collar is frozen. Probably has a bunch of crud in there.
 
I have recently picked up a Burnerd Multisize Collet chuck and set of collets. It's the lever action type (LC15 I think). Problems is, either I'm an idiot or it's seized.

It came with the lever and clamp for the lathe bed which I have set up. I can unscrew the cap from the front and take the collets in and out no problem. But the lever won't budge in any direction.

I did a search and a few people here seem to use these. Could someone give me an idiots guide to how to use this, in case I'm doing something stupid. I presumed you put the collet in, screw on the front cap hand tight to take up the slack, pull/push the lever to clamp the workpiece, spin the lathe and start cutting.

Alternatively does anyone have a user manual/ exploded diagram of one of these. I'm thinking I might have to take it apart if it really is seized.

Thanks in advance.

Similar one here. Works OK, but I had been planning to change the arse-end mount - until I later acquired a larger lathe better suited, as is.

I did find a thread on PM with decent fotos wherein someone had one clear apart to make a new internal component.

Sadly, I didn't save the link. "Seek and yee...." etc, probably with Google pointed at PM as primary site.

If you luck into a drawing, do shout. I'd like one of those too.
 
If you luck into a drawing, do shout. I'd like one of those too.

Same. I've got one, it is the same lever type but I've never had a problem with it and it gets a lot of use.

All I do is unscrew the nose cap, insert collet, replace cap, insert workpiece, screw in cap while trying the lever until I get to the sweet spot where the lever closes the collet tightly on the workpiece. Then it's good to go for that diameter.

PDW
 
Same. I've got one, it is the same lever type but I've never had a problem with it and it gets a lot of use.

All I do is unscrew the nose cap, insert collet, replace cap, insert workpiece, screw in cap while trying the lever until I get to the sweet spot where the lever closes the collet tightly on the workpiece. Then it's good to go for that diameter.

PDW

No issue with that part - mine is worn, but not hung-up.

Instead, I had been toying with breaking it down and making a new D1-3 arse-end in place of the D1-4. Meanwhile, the larger lathe having arrived with very few underthings in her bag means I'll not need to do it that way.
 
It is probably just gummed up with old coolant or oil and needs a little persuasion, I had to tap on mine with a plastic mallet when It arrived. The parts are really close fitting and it doesn't take much to make them sticky.
I like the suggestion of removing any collet and then try to free it up, a little thin oil at the joints (Velocite #6 or such) and a little tapping with a plastic mallet might be the ticket. What you're needing to move is the part (outer ring) that the lever works, if you free that up the rest will be fine. No hammer blows here, you may put a knot on a precision surface that could ruin the factory accuracy.
Dan
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I was reluctant to go at it without doing an idiot check first. I got at it yesterday evening with a soft mallet and it came apart without too much difficulty. I'm guessing it hadn't been used for many years as there was dried out coolant or some such crud in one area. Looked like it had pooled there when it was left sitting.

Danny was spot on, close fitting parts that don't take much to bind them together. Nicely made I have to say.

Anyway, thanks for everyone's help. It's working fine now that it's cleaned and oiled.
 








 
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