Chandler-duplex boring head shank removal

leeko · Jul 27, 2016

Hi all,

Can anyone tell by looking at this chandler-duplex d66 boring-facing head if the R8 shank is removable? They came in removable and non-removable varieties, but I'm not sure which this is.

If it's removable, i believe it's a RH thread. But, some gentle persuasion hasn't budged it yet. Before i get medieval on it, I'd like to verify it is actually replaceable

Thanks in advance,

Lee

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[486] · Jul 27, 2016

the shank and body are one piece

don't take it apart, a thousand bearings fall out and roll everywhere

Porschefix · Jul 28, 2016

I took mine apart, there were no balls falling out. It is a right hand thread, Collet clamp it into a lathe and put a 1/2" bar through the horizontal tool mount. Heat it up to @200 degrees and unscrew the body from the shank. I made a new shank for mine. Someone had turned the original shank down to 5/8".

This is not to say that Chandler did not redesign the thing so that it DOES fall apart when you disassemble it, but with mine, the shank mount was distinctly different and separate from the inner workings.

Old shank shown separate, new shank installed.

stephen thomas · Jul 28, 2016

He may be thinking of a Universal (brand) which does have a gazillion bearings in it.

& AFAIK, an integral (non-removable) shank
smt

Monarchist · Jul 28, 2016

Porschefix said:
I took mine apart, there were no balls falling out. It is a right hand thread, Collet clamp it into a lathe and put a 1/2" bar through the horizontal tool mount. Heat it up to @200 degrees and unscrew the body from the shank. I made a new shank for mine. Someone had turned the original shank down to 5/8".

This is not to say that Chandler did not redesign the thing so that it DOES fall apart when you disassemble it, but with mine, the shank mount was distinctly different and separate from the inner workings.

Old shank shown separate, new shank installed.
View attachment 176665

THANK YOU for that!

(I have two......)

Ray Behner · Jul 28, 2016

stephen thomas said:
He may be thinking of a Universal (brand) which does have a gazillion bearings in it.
& AFAIK, an integral (non-removable) shank
smt

Stephen,
Very possible. I have one of those which had a B&S taper. Turned it down to a straight shank.
And yes, there's a pile of BB's in it!

leeko · Jul 28, 2016

Thanks everyone! I'll try putting it in a collet. Are boring head shanks generally loctited in? (Hence the heat advice? )

Lee

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Porschefix · Jul 28, 2016

leeko said:
Thanks everyone! I'll try putting it in a collet. Are boring head shanks generally loctited in? (Hence the heat advice? )

Lee

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If they arent they should be, I would use loctite (carefully) on re-assembly if I were you, I did.

leeko · Jul 28, 2016

Thanks again

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stephen thomas · Jul 28, 2016

Are boring head shanks generally loctited in? (Hence the heat advice? )

The one on my Tree was loctited.
Another, such as my Wohly UPA3, has a differential screw and does not need stick-um.

It's rare to need to run a boring head in reverse for boring alone. But if you do outside turning with one, then it is common so that the same handed tools (bars) for the ID can be used for OD.

smt

[486] · Jul 28, 2016

stephen thomas said:
He may be thinking of a Universal (brand) which does have a gazillion bearings in it.
& AFAIK, an integral (non-removable) shank
smt

Yup, mine's an older "newall", they're similar pattern as the "universal". Assumed they'd have the same troubles.

stephen thomas · Jul 28, 2016

I've pruned the herd, but have in the past had a "boring head accumulation problem" according to others. I can always resist, and all that.

Yup, mine's an older "newall", they're similar pattern as the "universal". Assumed they'd have the same troubles

so do you have any pictures/links? None seen on current ebay.
Can they be operated while running with screw feed in or out, like a Bore-mate, Universal, D'andrea, etc?

smt

Blazemaster · Jul 28, 2016

I have a chandler that looks just like that and is removable.

[486] · Jul 28, 2016

stephen thomas said:
so do you have any pictures/links? None seen on current ebay.
Can they be operated while running with screw feed in or out, like a Bore-mate, Universal, D'andrea, etc?

Just like the one in this post
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...-boring-head-nmtb40-taper-259188/#post1959680

Except mine doesn't have the knob, so I use a hollow ground screwdriver bit to turn the slotted knob, and something in it is still binding after cleaning it out and regreasing. Has to come apart again and possibly have some scraping done on the slide block.

It was a #4 MT with a 1/2"-12 whitworth drawbar, but I turned it down to R8 and made a press fit bushing to mate up the 7/16-20 draw bar.
Was $100 on ebay, obviously not worth it as it is unusably stiff.

stephen thomas · Jul 29, 2016

Oh thank goodness!
I do not have to stay strong..

The Newall is close enough to Universal that there is no compulsion to attain one. Though I do admit to "needing" another Universal, just 'cause they are so cool. Mine cost the same ($99) in the box with spare parts & about 6 NOS tubes of un-opened grease. Actually, I have been dithering over turning the shank to R8 because it will fit more machines when my widow has to dispose of it at the estate sale, or NMTB 30, which fits the spindle of my better mill. With a second, both options would be possible.

smt

winger · Jul 29, 2016

Recently made a new arbor for mine. The thread is .735 x 16 tpi. Yes it is an odd size to clear a gear inside.
I had an r8 but I was tired of needing a couple more inches of head space to change it. I made a 3/4" arbor based on the TTS arbors from Tormach.

Dave

leeko · Jul 30, 2016

Thanks Dave, good info to have

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