New lathe to me. Nice shape...but... the motor leads are just sticking out in space, with no identifiers. Does the physical location, top row, bottom row have any significance? Is the top row the XYZ row?

One site also mentions the little lever on top of the starting lever as a high/low speed selector and another tag says 'for--rev'. Which is it?

Thanks.
Most respectfully,
Mike Rock

The small lever on the start lever is spindle reverse.

I had a 13" "Student" I think. Small lever on it did speed AND direction-Five positions total.

I was messing with a 2 speed 6 wire recently and in that case position was the only ID

Low Speed
L1 L2 L3
X Y Z

X' Y' Z' (Open)

High Speed
X -Y- Z (Connected)

X' Y' Z'
L1 L2 L3

Edited to add:
This was a 220 volt only motor with a 6 terminal block under the cover.


Your mileage may vary.
Scott

Which model Colchestor 13" do you have, I have manuals for several of them I can look it up if I know which one you have.Are you sure it is a Colchestor and not one of the older Clausings maybe a 5900?

Scott,
The wires are in basically two rows, top and bottom, three wires each.
Can you identify the wires by row and number, i.e., top row, number 1, etc.?

The lathe serial number is 29064. The tag has Clausing-Colchester, Kalamazoo, MI and a UK address.

Coming out of the switch panel is the BX bound set of six wires. One black, two red and three yellow. The remains of the black on the motor identifies that one. Then I can find one red remnant and one yellow.

Once we can identify motor lead and decipher the colors the hookup is easy. I have a 5hp rotary phase converter to give me the 220 3ph. we need.

Most respectfully,
Mike Rock
Rifle barrel maker.

Attached Thumbnails

   

And here is the lathe.

Well, maybe this time.

Mike,
My attempt at a wiring diagram above shows terminal locations, ie: X Y Z are top row left to right, and X' Y' Z' are bottom row.

Bear in mind, different motors, different country of origin, different maintenance man, etc.

Checking continuity from wire to wire through the switch(In each position) should identify the colored wires. My bet would be one yellow each on X Y and Z, black to Y' and swap reds on X' and Z' to get matching rotation.

Scott,
Thank you. Matching up the remains of wire insulation and positions of the wires gives me a working motor. Had to reverse the two reds. It turns out that it was not top/bottom but right/left side of the box that worked out. Phase convertor (5hp) fired up like a dream and things are good, so far. I have to rewire the coolant completely as the cord is original and if you flex it, cracking noises tell that the internal insulation is shot.

There are no electrical interlocks anywhere, so the 'Master' lathe is presumed.

Back into the hole/basement. Oh, moving a one ton machine down basement steps is a hoot. Wife working the come-along, me prying. And gravity on our side. Now we have to get it around a corner and up on leveling pads.

Thank you.

Most respectfully,
Mike Rock
Rifle barrel maker

I've had one ear cocked fearfully awaiting a sizzling sound emanating from Wisconsin and caused by imperfect advice. I'm glad you got it running.

You're a brave and/or lucky man to get the better half involved in such a project.