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Clean old 4 jaw or fit new?

Greenwud

Hot Rolled
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Location
New Zealand
DSG lathe came with an old rusty 4 jaw chuck with an integral fastlock mount. On further investigation, it is a steel bodied, DSG branded item and seems to have been made by Pratt. Jaws are tight and crisp but it is rusty all over.
I'm unsure how to clean without destroying the fits of the parts and have considered replacing it with a NOS kitagawa 4 jaw. Is this bad and wrong? How would others approach this?
 
Both, of course. Taking the opportunity to have two diameters to-hand. And/or to take one job off the spindle to do another, then put it back without disturbing the work. Have 3 or 4 6" 4-J alone.

Rust should clean up just fine. Hand push scraper for the 'cosmetic' flat faces. Kroil or such to get the movables out, then Evap-O-Rust, (or sugar) but NOT spoog tank for the rest of the curves and crevicles. If you even need that. I didn't. Brass / Bronze bristle brushes were enough.

Cleaning up a twenty-five dollah 150 mm rotab just this past week that had a nice Yamato Koki (pre Yuasa) Japanese critter under what LOOKED like terminal rust.

Not so much as a single scratch on the table or its Tee slots. Had been used its whole life with a Jacobs chuck Locktited (or similar) into its bore.

DS&G // Pratt should be similarly salvageable. Just bigger and heavier.

Go for it! Worst case, even with worn slots and jaws, one can shim a 4 Jaw and use it WELL beyond where a 3 Jaw would be scrap iron (Day ONE in my book, but I AM prejudiced..)

:)

Bill

Ta Bill- can you clarify the spoog tank and sugar you mention.
Electrolysis was one option- it's not just a brush and rag job. Should be good on mild steel if boiled out after?

The DSG chuck is fully twice as heavy as the Kity and only an inch bigger. Seems to be machined out of a forging. Is there any advantage to a steel chuck over the cast version?
 
I suspect it will clean up just fine with little work or money.

If so, either a smaller or larger chuck could be a better investment than a same-size Kita. Flexibility and maximum sane RPM thing. Many of us use 8" and 10" 4-J where a 6", 5" or even 4" would better suit much of the work and be easier to handle.

Bill

Ta Bill- evaporust is very pricey here and I'm a Scotsman at heart. Electrolysis may be ok; I'd dismissed it because of the embrittlement issue but learnt recently that boiling after removes any hydrogen. Power and electrodes are not a problem and the TSP tank is very suitable.

Ever wonder what the rest of the moles are used for?
 
"Sugar as in Molasses for convenience."

did you ever try sugar and did it work? (or are you talking about molasses?)
 
Keep the chuck. Had an old Pratt Burnerd on our Colchy and despite its age and visible use it was still quite good. Must have used some good material.
 








 
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