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  1. #21
    jdj
    jdj is offline Diamond
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    The quickest is HYDROFLUORIC. NOT HYDROCHLORIC(muriatic). There is a common product called "Iron out" (powder form) and "Whink"(liquid). The liquid would be more suitable in your case. It is dilute hydrofluoric acid. It's speciality is eating iron. If it is just a stain or fine dust, you won't need to scrub. Just watch it disappear! Of course, rinse or neutralize afterward.
    I have tried muriatic on rust and it didn't work. I guess others have had different results?
    (spell check is telling me that muriatic is spelled wrong, but I could have sworn that is the spelling of it)

    Jeff

  2. #22
    Xtrucker_99 is offline Cast Iron
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    larry its just a driveway. park her car over the stain. that way you will have room to work in the garage.

    dt

  3. #23
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    pak
    pak is offline Cast Iron
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    Default Ospho

    I use Ospho for everything from heavy rusted metal to rust stains on my fiberglass boat to concrete stains. It "causes iron oxide (rust) to chemically change to iron phosphate - an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black." On concrete it just makes the stain go away. If there are any particles left, a light pressure wash will do.

    http://www.ospho.com/directions.htm

    Regards,

    Drew

  4. #24
    jdj
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdj View Post
    The quickest is HYDROFLUORIC. NOT HYDROCHLORIC(muriatic). There is a common product called "Iron out" (powder form) and "Whink"(liquid). The liquid would be more suitable in your case. It is dilute hydrofluoric acid. It's speciality is eating iron. If it is just a stain or fine dust, you won't need to scrub. Just watch it disappear! Of course, rinse or neutralize afterward.
    I have tried muriatic on rust and it didn't work. I guess others have had different results?
    (spell check is telling me that muriatic is spelled wrong, but I could have sworn that is the spelling of it)

    Jeff
    Where are all the posts contradicting this or saying "It will destroy the concrete!" Concrete is pretty tough, rinse well and it will be fine.

    Jeff

  5. #25
    daleroe's Avatar
    daleroe is offline Cast Iron
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    I use whink to remove the rust stains in the toilet at the shop. It works geat you can watch the rust disappear. It is also very good at removing anodizing. I've never tried it on concrete but wouldn't hesistate to give it a try. I've been told that if you get it on you that it does not burn so you won't know, best to use all the safety gear just in case. I was also told that it leaches out the calcium in your bones, maybe that would be an issue for concrete but only if not neuralized I suppose.

  6. #26
    boucher is offline Aluminum
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    Default Iron Out

    This is used for clothes washing in areas where there are certain forms of Iron disolved in the water. It is also used to clean the resin bed in water softners. Also used to clean Iron stains on plumbing fixtures. This is a good product saw it at Home Depot recently. It used to be avaliable at most of the grocery stores in this area. This would be my first choice followed by Tide detergent with clorox included for second place. The acids mentioned will work but you may trade one problem for a different problem. If you go the acid route start dilute and do not leave it on too long.

  7. #27
    boucher is offline Aluminum
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    Default Stamped and stained concrete.

    We had a patio done with the stamped rock appearance it was then dyed with an acid stain. SWMBO chose the english red color. She liked it so well she stained all the sidewalks around the house. At fish camp we built a 1200 sq ft apartment and patio. That is now red also. It is waxed after staining so it does not continue to dust like raw concrete.

  8. #28
    spope14 is offline Stainless
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    Over time it disappears with rain, ice, snow, use and dirt. Change your oil over the area, this should cover the rust stains.

    In all seriousness, I have simply used a bit of powered cleaner like a Mr. Clean or Borax and a stiff bristled floor broom to remove many a stain on concrete. This is usually a surface stain, not deep in. Done this for years now, for in New England, rust stains are a part of life in our garages.

  9. #29
    juergenwt is offline Hot Rolled
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    Used "RustRaze" in a bucket. Mop on,let sit and wash off. Repeat if needed.

  10. #30
    67Cuda's Avatar
    67Cuda is offline Stainless
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdj View Post
    The quickest is HYDROFLUORIC. Jeff
    Hydrofluoric is very dangerous and should not be used. Not sure if you can actually buy it. Very reckless to be recommending such a chemical. I used to work with this type of chemical.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid


    Tom

  11. #31
    jdj
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67Cuda View Post
    Hydrofluoric is very dangerous and should not be used. Not sure if you can actually buy it. Very reckless to be recommending such a chemical. I used to work with this type of chemical.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid


    Tom
    The kind that you can buy(Whink brand) at an average hardware store, is very diluted. I have used it with no problems.
    At, or even close to full strength, you are correct. It is VERY dangerous.

    Jeff

  12. #32
    delloro is offline Cast Iron
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    been a while since I used it, but Mechanics brand driveway cleaner works great. #203, if I recall correctly. it is oxalic acid.

    any acid will do the trick, but oxalic seems to be the mildest. and it's in powder form.

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