Cutting large keyway with limited machinery

I just finished a L1 backplate for one of my chucks, and need to cut a 5/8 width keyway in it. I have a couple bridgeports, a lathe, and a 150 ton press with a very short stroke, and no key cutters. So how do I accomplish this? I have put a HSS blank in the lathe toolpost and slammed in through a couple of holes before, with limited success, but I don't think I could do that on this one.

There's gotta be a way with the tools I have...

It's gonna have to be shaped in some way, if it is an internal key (and it has to be for the female of an L1 taper). You can set up in the lathe and drag it, you can set up in the Bridgeport and shape it with the spindle quill, or you can set up and broach it with just a hand pumped hydraulic press.

I think the BPort wil be the ticket for this. Set up and drill a hole as big as possible in the keyway location to remove material quickly. Make a single tooth shaping tool to go in the drill chuck of the mill (broken drill is perfect stock for this). Does not have to be a full size cutter, as you can use the table to adjust position of keyway. Stick mill in backgear with motor off so cutter doesn't rotate. Mount work to table with 1/2" or so clearance under the work for the cutter. Pull down on quill handle and remove tiny amount of metal. Move part miniscule amount. Repeat until you have a 5/8" keyway.

It's what cape chisels and hammers were made for

Buy the broach and make the collar...or send it to me and just pay the shipping both ways

Jay

sfalcon said:

Look up Camacho's 90 Degree Internal Keyway it attaches to your Miling machine and can do Internal Keyways, Blind, External, Splines, and Locking Cavities to name a few. You can find it on sale at Ebay.

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Interesting.
Do you have one? Do you have any better pictures of one, than the one on eBay and Craig's List? (same person/pic) I'm curious as to how it works. Thanks.

keyway cutting

Dieselpower, You could come see me and exercise my shaper a little.I'm about 30 mi away.

call me if you need 615 446-4619 after 5:30 week days

ENGINENUT2 said:

Dieselpower, You could come see me and exercise my shaper a little.I'm about 30 mi away.

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The thread is from last November. Pretty sure he should have it covered by now. It was just dragged up by this guy spamming his Camacho. He’s only made 3 posts, some dragged up from 2008, and each and every one recommending this thing. With the same tripe as in the Ebay adds. “Locking Cavities” seems to get a mention every time.

Phil.

I think the BPort wil be the ticket for this. Set up and drill a hole as big as possible in the keyway location to remove material quickly. Make a single tooth shaping tool to go in the drill chuck of the mill (broken drill is perfect stock for this). Does not have to be a full size cutter, as you can use the table to adjust position of keyway. Stick mill in backgear with motor off so cutter doesn't rotate. Mount work to table with 1/2" or so clearance under the work for the cutter. Pull down on quill handle and remove tiny amount of metal. Move part miniscule amount. Repeat until you have a 5/8" keyway.

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Mike you probably are more knowledgeable than I, and I could be wrong, but wouldn't loading up a static set of angular contact spindle bearings like that be a real good way to ruin them? Am I wrong? I always thought that you had to keep them moving when placing that type of load on them.

Adam

adammil1 said:

Mike you probably are more knowledgeable than I, and I could be wrong, but wouldn't loading up a static set of angular contact spindle bearings like that be a real good way to ruin them? Am I wrong? I always thought that you had to keep them moving when placing that type of load on them.

Adam

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I've done it to make a 1/4 key way. Took very light cuts. I hope I didn't mess up the bearings, didn't even think about it.

A cape chisel and file works but maybe a little slow for most. I hand cut 1 1/4" keyways in 5" dia winch shaft. Back in 1977 when I was out working on the waterfront, I had paper to dismantle 8 BIG deck winches and send the drum shafts to the shop to machine keyways. The object was to mount a gypsy drum on the overhung stub shaft for lne handling.

I got permssion to do one just to try it. I was instructed to cut one but only an inch wide to leave stock in case I screwed it up. I seem to recall it took about 5 hours. But the work went so well I was approved to cut all 8. Boss OK'ed it so I enlarged the one and cut the rest in about 6 work days. I was allowed two days apeice to dismantle and prep and another three apiece to put them back together. Saved the taxpayer about $6000 on that one. All with a hammer, chisel, and file.

Getting back to the OP. Yeah you can slot out that keyway on the lathe. Drill a relief hole for the tool to run out in. Slotting takes a lot of push. Make a couple of undesized tools in steps and run them through before the finish tool. I'd do it on the lathe. A BP quill rack drive is not well suited for slotting. The pinion key is only 3/32" woodruff. A lathe carriage is much beefier.

If you want ghetto hack at it with a plasma arc.

For goodness sake have the key way cut with a key-seater. it might cost 30 bucks.

Its not magic its just the right tool for the job.
this old beater would chew that key in there right in no time at all. 5/8" is not a big key at all. tapered bores are easy too.