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Cutting shim stock with electrolysis

geb

Plastic
Joined
May 6, 2007
Location
nebraska
Hope I'm not being impatient here. I asked this in another related thread but activity seems to have dwindled there. Googling returns limited information on "electrolysis cutting shim reed valve etching" and related search terms. Maybe I need to refine the search terms?

I'd like to locate more specific information related to cutting thin metal shim stock via electrolysis. Can't seem to find a thorough source guide. This is close....
http://www.aardvark.co.nz/pjet/makevalves1.pdf
But still leaves room for questions regarding candidates for power sources, solutions, different shim material (brass, SS, carbon steel, alum) more details, etc.

Any links to share on this?
 
Back in the dark ages when mechanical drafting ruled the design room, there used to be thin templates of stainless called eraser shields. (that really revels a minimum age of old, doesn't it?) These were produced by electrochemical machining. There used to be a couple of jobber companies that would hand out samples at shows that also had their name cut in them.

But to help you out, I don't recall names or production data.
 
There was a thread on here about it a couple of weeks back. Paint the shim, then scratch through paint outline of cut. Electrolysis was done in salty water. Bloke was making pulse jet valves, making a very nice job of them too!
 
Should be abundant info out there. Printed circuits, detailed artwork on handsaws, theatrical lighting gobos (perforated light metal screens used at the primary fiocus of lighting unite to project black and white imagec and effects on stage sets from dappled light to prizon bars to comlicated cityscapes were once done with processes suitable for home at the kitchen table.
 
I have an old book that tells how to do it from 1937.

Polish and clean with benzine. coat with cereson wax or syncera wax, scribe the part through the wax.(crayons will work.)

then put in the acid made from, 3 Oz potassium bicromate in 32 OZ of water, and 3 OZ of sulfuric acid and a few drops of dish washing soap to make it stick. if you do aluminum add some hydrochloric acid.

I love the book where this come from, its called." Amateur craftsman's cyclopedia of things to make" It is way old school.
 
Look up Photoetching, you will find more information about it there. Particularly on Modeling sights.

Charles

I work for a glass to metal seal house. We use photoetched parts every day. It is a very accurate way to get small stuff done. There is a thickness penalty though.
 
There are stainless steel solder masks made by companies for the electronics industries that may accept your particular material ( I expect stainless would fatigue fast even if it's flexed minimally) and make the parts. Apart from that I'd suggest using ferric chloride with a DC current assist and a carbon rod out of a D cell for the other electrode. Straight hydrochloric acid is way too uneven for electrolytic etching , having a metal dissolved like ferric chloride in the solution seems to be finer and smoother.
 
In 1937 it was stuff you could find, im sure thier is an alternative that wont hurt you more then you grow a second penis and have 2 headed children.

I have a container, from the photo and hobby lab owned by a late collegue of my father .
Never used it for anything, but i keep it, simply because i know very well that it is an incredibly useful chemical.
 
At risk of answering a different question than the one you asked ... I routinely use abrasive waterjet to make intricate parts from shim stock down to .001", by stacking or sandwiching it between thicker layers of sacrificial material. Accuracy is ~+/- .002", may be on par with photo resist electrochemical, not as good as edm, just depends what you need.
 








 
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