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OT: 80 PSI in light truck tires?!!!!

jimmysgarage

Cast Iron
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Location
Portland Oregon
I just returned from the repair shop where the mechanic mentioned that the
tires were very low, so he aired them to spec of 80 PSI. My eyes nearly
popped out of my head! I was told to air the tires to the vehicles door pilar
label. Also, it seems 32PSI is nearly standard. These are Toyo 245/70r16 all
season tires that do have the markings of 80 max PSI on the sidewall. He
mention most high quality tires are like these.

So how many folks out there have heard of this? Have your eyes
popped out yet!! I waiting to hear a boom in the driveway....
 
Adjust air pressure from door pillar ratings only if wear or handling is an issue or if pushing max load. High pressure will wear the center out of the tread (conversely, low pressure wears the edges). My old flatbed has E rated tires that can be run at 70psi or so, but it'll beat your teeth out at anything less than full capacity if you run it that way. I keep them mid-30s for most of the time.
 
Yes, follow the pillar at nearly all times. The exception would be when the truck is fully loaded, as Mike C. states.

My Mercedes door pillar says 32psi front and 30psi rear, and the handling is fantastic, as a Mercedes should be. Air them up to the 42psi sidewall rating and it handles like a Cadillac.:ack2:

Truck-wise, I drove a 2010 E-250 with tires having an 80psi sidewall rating, and at that pressure it stood firmly seated on the road w/1200lbs in the back.
 
The tires on my one ton say 80 psi on them. I keep them close to that.

The tires on the car are 44 psi rated. Last time I had two new tires put on the front the tire changer guy set all the pressures at about 30 psi. I could tell as I left the tire store the tires were under inflated and as soon as I got home they all went to 44 psi.

tim
 
My work truck ('84 3/4 ton work body with extra top bins and ladder rack) runs about 8,000 lbs. most of which is on the rear.

I run 265-70R-16 Load Class E. They run 80 psi. I can get by with load class C on the front, 44 psi. Try running a class C on the rear and you'll be changing it in about ten miles.

knn
 
Hello Jimmysgarage
Follow specs on door pillar. My '98 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 says 50 psi for no load & maximum driver comfort, 80 psi when hauling maximum load, with load range E (10 ply) tires. Like when I hauled in 69 batteries to the scrap yard. That was 3020 lbs of lead.
Remember this: It's not the tire that's carrying the weight, it's the air in the tire that's carrying the weight. Let the air out of the tire & how much weight can it carry? Not much. Not enough to hold up an empty truck.
 
Tires on my truck are rated for 80 PSI max, but the ride (empty) is horrendous. I usually run about 45. I set tire pressure based on how the tread wears, but you'll have to keep a close eye on them.
 
Whats in the door jam doesn't really mean crap. Depending on what your weight is and especially if you changed tire sizes.

The trick I read about, about 20 years ago. Get on a nice flat surface, and keep pumping them up until you can just start to slide a credit card under the edge of the tread. I've had at least 2 sets of tire last close to 70,000 miles like that with relatively even wear.

80 psi especially in a 3/4 or a one ton pickup is a dentists dream. Fine in the rear when you are running some weight, but a bit sadistic when its your daily driver, and you'll burn out the center of the tire.
 
I would never look in the door jam for tire pressure rating. :crazy:
Unless you have the original tires on it - that means naught.

Door jam reccomendations for certain Fords of a few yrs back weren't a good spec either, tho it was the only way that they could git a Ford to ride good I s'pose. ???

I have never seen a tire that didn't have a pressure rating on it. :skep:

I'm guessing that the mechanic read the sidewall and it said 80PSI.

We run E tires on the Burbans and I set them in the 50# area for best wear. If you have a reg pickup and no weight, then 40-45 may be best.

NEVER over-inflate!

This Burban had brand new C (?) rated tires on it when she bought it. Just street tires, Not 4wd tires. She had planned to make them doo untill they were worn. But you had to take Dramamine (Gravel for N of 49th) to ride in it, and then she about slid through a stop sign (likely driving like a woman) and she called home and said to order a set of real tires for this POS! :angry:

With E tires # 50# these things ride decent and handle like a dream.
No Gravel required. :D

At 80# on the Burbans we get center wear.
@ 32# or so you will git the opposite.
At 50# we git 80K mile wear out of them!
(BF Goodrich A/T KO)
Been running them that way since 12/99 when we got the first Burban with 16" wheels @ close to 40K miles / yr average.
(not counting the same tires on the duallies for the last 18 yrs that we doo run at 80#)


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I am Ox and I approve this h'yah post!
 
Sidewall pressure rating is just a maximum value for manufacturing testing and load ratings. It is not a suggested setting.
A tire can be put on a wide variety of vehicles, it makes no sense that it would have the correct pressure setting for your (or any other) vehicle.

Door pillar is a best guide. It can be fine tuned for load, comfort, weather, condition, etc.

My 3/4 ton pickup has 80 PSI rear, 65 front, as listed on the door.
 
I have no idea how you guys can afford to run 80 psi in pickup tires when running around empty... Between burning the centers out prematurely and buying kidney belts, I'd think a person would go broke. :D

I of course run 80 psi in 10 ply rear tires when hooked to a big trailer, etc., but it seems asinine to me when empty...

Bobw's credit card trick is a good one I haven't heard before--chalking the tires and looking at the pattern on a flat concrete pad is a pretty good way to go also.
 
Easier than chalk is to use water.

Get on some dry flat concrete, , spray or put some water on the tread of the tires and drive backwards for the front tires or forward for the back tires and see where the rubber hits the road. It its only in the middle you are over inflated. If it is clear out to the sides you are under inflated.

If you can look at the tread and tell they are already worn in the center or the sides you need to consider this in your results.
 
My '02 F350 Diesel Superduty had 115k mi on the Firestones when I put new tires on. Always have had 55psi.- recommended by my tire man.:D
 
I have this Milton clip-on tire chuck. Thus I can stand back from that air-filled bomb as I inflate it when going towards the upper guideline limits. Originally purchased for seating beads on tractor tires which I realize won't do 80psi but the thought of any tire going to fast-fracture-failure right next to my head isn't a good one. I haven't read of any stories on LR-E tires letting loose on the net but I don't want to be the first one either :D
 
I have an '07 Burb. IIRC the pillar label says 32 PSI. BS! I run the rubber at 44. Handles nice, they don't squat with a load, and so far they have 40K on them(probably hit 50).
 
Yes, follow the pillar at nearly all times.

That sounds like standard liability protocol right there on the shops behalf. What happens when you put on aftermarket tires? My stock Toyota comes with Dunlop tires and I have on Nitto tires, what, am I going to air them up to where the Toyota's Dunlops were?
I was told by the 4x4 shop that I use to ALWAYS use what the tire manufacture recommends, and that is at MAXIMUM load, not what the vehicle recommends, unless of course you always replace your tires with oem, and if that's the case, your an idiot.
 








 
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